I am really jealous of your visits to Nantucket and the surrounding area! It is a trip I would love to do, but for me it is of course a little more complicated...
Ahoy Me Hearties
its Seaman Apprentice Mike
I have a problem, my keel is warped 1/8 inch
can some one throw me a line
its Seaman Apprentice Mike
I have a problem, my keel is warped 1/8 inch
can some one throw me a line
Here is what I think; as long as it is the warp is not twisted, only bent. This shouldn't be an issue. Once you glue the bulkhead, you can make ready the filler blocks between bulkheads, it will straighten the entire assembly then.
Don't worry about it if there is a solid deck that gets installed. That will straighten it out.
The other option is to put in filler blocks between all the bulkheads. You will want to do that anyway for the gaps between the bulkheads at the bow and stern to get a better shape on the planking. What kit is this?
LOL Jim beat me again.
The other option is to put in filler blocks between all the bulkheads. You will want to do that anyway for the gaps between the bulkheads at the bow and stern to get a better shape on the planking. What kit is this?
LOL Jim beat me again.
Jim...is everywhereLOL Jim beat me again.
Yeah, I completely forgot about the false deck usually supplied in the kit, you beat me here, so 1:1
Thank You guys, Appreaciate the help
you bet... this is why we are here... and there...
always glad to help.
sorry for late response Corsair, missed the last lineDon't worry about it if there is a solid deck that gets installed. That will straighten it out.
The other option is to put in filler blocks between all the bulkheads. You will want to do that anyway for the gaps between the bulkheads at the bow and stern to get a better shape on the planking. What kit is this?
LOL Jim beat me again.
- its an Occre kit
no problem.sorry for late response Corsair, missed the last line
yeah, it looks like you will be gluing a false deck to the tops of the bulkheads and false keel. That will straighten out the slight warp in the false keel. Dry fit it first. Happy Thanksgiving !
As I built the same model, I'm quite sure that you'll have no problem with the slight deformation of the keel, for the reasons already illustrated in the other responses. Good work!
Worked like a charm, thanks Maties
Now the planking is getting closer. For my own part, I think it is good to fill the space between the frames with balsa.
On the long sides, where there is no bending to speak of, I have used approx. 8-10 mm balsa and where it bends more, I have filled in completely.
I think the hull will be smoother and more stable. The first hulls I built I didn't fill in and then some moldings sank in and even when the hull was planked I could sometimes feel that it was failing. Probably due to the fact that I did not get all the moldings to be completely glued to each other.
On the long sides, where there is no bending to speak of, I have used approx. 8-10 mm balsa and where it bends more, I have filled in completely.
I think the hull will be smoother and more stable. The first hulls I built I didn't fill in and then some moldings sank in and even when the hull was planked I could sometimes feel that it was failing. Probably due to the fact that I did not get all the moldings to be completely glued to each other.
I think ? I know what you mean
Any photos ?
Ahoy Maties
My next step is staining the deck and I would like to get a little creative. If anyone has weathering techniques for my deck and Hull the help would be greatly appreciated.
E-3 Seaman Mike
My next step is staining the deck and I would like to get a little creative. If anyone has weathering techniques for my deck and Hull the help would be greatly appreciated.
E-3 Seaman Mike
thanks Ismaele, your planking looks good