Making Your Own Ropes.

As smaller scales are not unusual, does anyone make rope for scales such as 1:96? Using a 74 gun ship as an example the top gallant buntlines would be 0.11mm diameter and the braces about 0.19mm. Smaller rates would be even smaller. I am guessing thread will be needed versus rope but I believe even fly tying line only goes down to 0.15mm.
TIA
Allan
 
As smaller scales are not unusual, does anyone make rope for scales such as 1:96? Using a 74 gun ship as an example the top gallant buntlines would be 0.11mm diameter and the braces about 0.19mm. Smaller rates would be even smaller. I am guessing thread will be needed versus rope but I believe even fly tying line only goes down to 0.15mm.
TIA
Allan
Probably not the correct way, but I just use thread that fits the smallest blocks in the build. I don't think there is a block with as small as 0.15 mm hole but I don't know this for a fact.
 
I just use thread that fits the smallest blocks in the build.
At this size the wound rope appearance would not be evident anyway, so a good thing. I do try to match the right size rope to a reasonable extent as the sizes for each line is easy to calculate for any given size and era of English warships from the 17th century onwards.

I did some searching and did find 0.1mm bead thread so it is out there.

Allan
 
At this size the wound rope appearance would not be evident anyway, so a good thing. I do try to match the right size rope to a reasonable extent as the sizes for each line is easy to calculate for any given size and era of English warships from the 17th century onwards.

I did some searching and did find 0.1mm bead thread so it is out there.

Allan
Me too, but when things get really small, I throw in the towel because I have a hard time working with that. I don't think I have ever worked with that fine a thread as 0.1 mm
 
One last thing to do is go over it with Bees Wax before removing the rope from the walk.
Er... Well, there's differing views on this subject. Bees' wax has some issues with archival quality and acidity. Waxes are like "fly paper" to dust. A case will of course limit this somewhat, but it's impossible to avoid all dust. Fortunately, most of the synthetic cordage these days doesn't have the "fuzz" the organics do. For sealing and shaping catenaries and coils, etc., thinned clear shellac renders was unnecessary.
 
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I'm familiar with Guttermann Mara, but not Scala. Is Scala a left-handed laid thread? It appears that you've laid up some very nice right-handed three-strand line which is correct, of course. That would mean that the thread was laid left-handed. If not, what's your secret for producing such nice right-hand laid line? You don't reverse the twist on the threads to begin with, do you?
 
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