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Making your own Ropes

AllanKP69 said:
Certainly not your fault. OcCre does not seem to care how a ship was actually built. Other examples,,,,,,, there is no rounding of the deck beams, giant belaying pins, and considering the era, huge rocks instead of kentledge and shingle for ballast and cannon that are from another century. Those wooden barrels lying on the rock pile would have been destroyed in the first rough weather they faced. :eek:

Allan
Appropriate cannon for the era of Santisima Trinidad
View attachment 627589

Providing correct pattern cannon is not expensive and easy to do. I have no idea why they provided something that is totally wrong for the ST.

View attachment 627590
Click to expand...
Allan thanks. I reckon you're absolutely right in everything you've pointed out. I've worked on a great deal of improvements in this build, but because there would be soooo much to fix, I've got to choose which battles to fight, so to speak
 
Krill80 said:
Thanks Allan. Indeed, they are. I followed the Occre instructions (pictures really) and only figured out that the blocks were depicted upside down after I had positioned them.
Click to expand...
If I can add a little flame to the fire, since you are making such effort to get things right. Those blocks would not have been seized to the bolts on the deck.
They would have had hooks on them.

1786992836900.png

At the foot of a mast you would see something like this. ( From Petersson )
 
robertvg said:
it is hard to choose the right brand/kit.
Click to expand...
Based on the many build logs here and elsewhere there are some that seem to be above and beyond the fray including Model Ship Dockyard, Portland, Vanguard and a few others.
Allan
 
Krill80 said:
20260813_170559.jpg
Click to expand...

Where is that from?
 
Dubz Modelling World said:
The Latitude Creation 3D printed tool. Is it a STL?
Click to expand...
Hi there,
Yes, it is 3D printed from an STL that I generated from my own model in SketchUp.

The original idea was inspired by the rope hank/coil tool made by Syren Ship Model Company, but I developed my version into a modular system rather than a set of separate fixed-size tools. A single reusable base accepts sixteen interchangeable mandrels: eight circular ones for making deck coils and eight elongated ones for hanging rope hanks, covering nominal sizes from 10 to 25 mm.

It also uses a single removable support pin for all the hank sizes. This makes the complete system more compact, versatile and economical in terms of material, while allowing further sizes or accessories to be added later without having to produce an entirely new tool.

I redesigned and refined all the geometry specifically for 3D printing and added my own Latitude Creations branding. It is not a Syren product.

For the moment, this is a personal working prototype and the STL is not available for download or sale, although I am considering whether it might become available in the future.
 
Dubz Modelling World said:
You should publish the stl to the public. Seems like a very useable tool :-)
Click to expand...
Thank you — that’s very encouraging!
That said, I do not intend to publish or distribute the STL files. Once digital files are released, it becomes virtually impossible to control their redistribution or prevent third parties from using them commercially. Given that the original idea was inspired by Syren’s tool, I want to be especially careful to safeguard their business and avoid any situation that could unintentionally compete with or harm them. I also don't want to turn this into a business venture of my own.
I have invested quite a lot of time in developing, refining and testing this substantially different modular system. If I ever decide to make it available, it would therefore be more likely as a complete 3D-printed Latitude Creations kit, produced and distributed directly by me on a very limited basis — and only after careful consideration. It wouldn't be approached as a commercial business, but rather offered at a fair price for fellow modelers, primarily to cover materials and production costs.
 
TheGatzby said:
If I can add a little flame to the fire, since you are making such effort to get things right. Those blocks would not have been seized to the bolts on the deck.
They would have had hooks on them.

View attachment 627702

At the foot of a mast you would see something like this. ( From Petersson )
Click to expand...
Hi Gatzby,
I am new to this modeling, but as your drawing shows, there are eye bolts. Actually, that would have been the way they held the block in place back in the day, but how would you solve the fixing to the model's deck in our circumstances in the model build? The reason I ask this is that the sheets and ropes, etc have to show tautness in the model setup. Now, I have given you the reason why I want to know how to fix these eyebolts securely to the deck. Obviously, an extra-thick support beam has to be added underneath the deck first. Using CA glue to fix the eyebolt to the deck and beam, would CA be strong enough to hold the eyebolt in place?
 
GaryA said:
.....how would you solve the fixing to the model's deck in our circumstances in the model build?
Click to expand...
I would try to avoid using kit supplied eyebolts, and I will elaborate on that shortly. If I must use the kit parts I would rough up the stem as much as possible. I would also use cutters to put a sharp point on the piece. I would put a very small amount of CA glue on the stem, and rather than drilling a hole, I would push the bolt into the deck, possibly counter-sinking it a bit.
Bolt 1.jpg

I have never had a bolt pull out using this method. There should not be enough tension on any model ( unless very large scale ) rigging to pull one of these bolts out.

Bolt 2.jpg
I make my own eyebolts out of annealed steel wire.

Bolt 3.jpg
I twist it around a suitable sized drill bit.

Bolt 4.jpg
This creates a screw on the stem. ( I did this in a hurry. I Usually try to do neater work )

Bolt5.jpg
With a small amount of CA glue you screw this into a very small pilot hole. I like to try to counter-sink it a bit.

Bolt 6.jpg


This will not pull out with a 10LB weight.

Let me know if I can answer any questions.
 
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TheGatzby said:
I would try to avoid using kit supplied eyebolts, and I will elaborate on that shortly. If I must use the kit parts I would rough up the stem as much as possible. I would also use cutters to put a sharp point on the piece. I would put a very small amount of CA glue on the stem, and rather than drilling a hole, I would push the bolt into the deck, possibly counter-sinking it a bit.
View attachment 628140

I have never had a bolt pull out using this method. There should not be enough tension on any model ( unless very large scale ) rigging to pull one of these bolts out.

View attachment 628143
I make my on eyebolts out of annealed steel wire.

View attachment 628144
I twist it around a suitable sized drill bit.

View attachment 628145
This creates a screw on the stem. ( I did this in a hurry. I Usually try to do neater work )

View attachment 628146
With a small amount of CA glue you screw this into a very small pilot hole. I like to try to counter-sink it a bit.

View attachment 628172


This will not pull out with a 10LB weight.

Let me know if I can answer any questions.
Click to expand...
Hi Gatsby, Thanks very much for that. That is a brilliant reply!
Any ideas on how to make the hooks nicely, as you show in your picture?
"I feel like a different type of robber, stealing ideas instead of money"
Cheers :cool: ;)
 
Those are aftermarket hooks. I'm not sure of good sources in UK.
I see Cornwall Model Boats has a selection.. But I couldn't seem to be able to do a search to get different sizes in one place.
Drydock Models & Parts have some..
HIS Models have a large selection.

I have made hooks in the past but I don't think I can match that look, or do a good job of showing how.
I'll see what I can come up with.
 
Dubz Modelling World said:
The black rope is laid in the wrong direction! But both ropes are looking great! :-)
Click to expand...
Nope, it is laid correct. Because 3x1 in RH wil unwind the yarn first and the result will be bad. 0,2 mm. you will need Indian eyes to see in real that the direction is LH.
 
I figured, exactly as Stephan pointed out, that it would be impossible to see the LH winding on such a small rope. Anyway, it was a test which I tried as Stephan suggested. The rope came out fine, but I don't know whether it was for the LH setting, or the fact that I let it spin hanging vertically with a clamp at the bottom. Fresh out of the machine, it wanted to twist and curl up like mad...
 
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