Back to the fibreglassing…and does the existing filler make a difference?
I now have all my supplies. I bought a few different weights of glass cloth and also random chopped strand mat. The chopped mat is very light weight, but it’s reasonably stiff and therefore impractical for this application but would be good on completely flat surfaces. Of the two cloths, I’ll be using the lightest weight (30 gsm or 0.88 oz/yd). You have to be careful handling and cutting it as it’s easy to put a pull in the weave. The upside is it will mould around quite tight curves with ease.
To the test…I was concerned that the filler that is already on the hull might be a problem and that I’ll need to sand it off before starting. I thought that the epoxy would stick to the filler surface, but I’d then get delamination between the filler and timber when a load was applied.
Here is the panel, with the epoxied glass already added to each test area. Bare timber on the left, and filled timber on the right.
I let it harden for a few days before seeing which side of the panel had the better adhesion, and particularly whether the right side would fail between the filler and timber layer. As it turns out they both perform similarly when trying to strip the glass layer or when trying to separate the planks. The epoxy (with the diluent additive) appears to have soaked through the filler and into the timber. So, I’ll proceed with the hull without sanding the filler from the surface.
Fibreglassing the hull
This will be done in two runs…each side of the hull.
A length of cloth was cut with plenty of overhang on all sides. There was a little preparation to do…the rudder bottom mount hardware was removed (I didn’t want to invertedly glue it in) and the rudder post was greased to stop epoxy sticking to it, or going down the rudder tube, the prop shaft was covered with tape, and the entire hull was given a very light sand and multiple passes with a clean rag to remove any oils from my hands and then the dust from the hull.
I already have the bulwarks mounted to the hull, so I plan to run the cloth right to the top of those. I see a small issue with that, as they sit slightly inboard of the hull sides for about 60% of the hull length…that little step will be difficult to get the cloth to mould around.
Here we are before getting started. The hull is sitting on wood blocks to raise the side above the bench, and is canted over to give me better access.
I mixed up 25ml of epoxy and diluent…a little more than was needed, but better that than too short. The epoxy was carefully poured on the fabric from the centre of the hull forwards and then to the rear, working down the side as I went. I used an old credit card to spread the epoxy, it works well as it doesn’t tug at the fabric when used at a low angle. In tight spots I tipped a small amount of epoxy on the end of the card for application because it can be tricky to pour small amounts in some places on the job.
As expected, the step at the bulwark was a problem, in the end I used a sharp scalpel knife to cut the fabric along that line and allowed the cloth on the bulwark to sit on its surface, and the end of the fabric on the hull side to hang over the edge. This will be sanded to a square edge when everything is dry.
Given that this was my first go working with epoxy/glass fabric, I think it went smoothly. The fabric can handle quite tight complex curves due to the amount of ‘give’ afforded by the loose weave of the glass strands. It went around the stern without and wrinkles or bunching. The resulting finished layer is also very thin, so the overlap at the rear, when the other side is done, will be easy to feather to a smooth surface. It was around 20C when I did this job, so the epoxy had a pot life in excess of an hour, and it was a few hours before it really started to go off on the hull. By next morning it felt ready to continue.
Here is my novice list of things to be aware of…
- Don’t get too fussy during application, the more you play with it, the greater the chance of pulling the fabric strands
- Make sure that the fabric and surface underneath are fully wet (no air pockets), but don’t go overboard, you can get pockets of resin if too much is applied without adequate smoothing
- Don’t try to fully fill the fabric weave on the first application (you will get runs), the filling happens in the subsequent epoxy layers
- Don’t be concerned about all that overhang, it’s so easy to remove when hardened, with sharp fine sandpaper along an edge
- Openings, like the scuppers (see above), are easy to cut out and file after allowing hardening overnight. Don’t try to cut anything while the epoxy is setting.
- Don’t try to warm things after applying the resin…you will get bubbles form under the wet resin/glass layer (yes, I tried!)
- Use disposable cups, stirrers, brushes etc where possible…it’s generally not worth trying to clean epoxy from most things. Tools can be cleaned with denatured alcohol if needed.
- Use nitrile rubber gloves, sticky epoxy can be cleaned from your skin with standard workshop hand-scrub creams…no need to use nasty solvents
- Remember that almost any ‘mistake’ can be corrected after hardening with sandpaper and maybe more epoxy or cloth…just don’t get epoxy into any moving parts
Next up...finishing off the new layer