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Math Whiz

define "bolt" in wooden ship building a blot was a rod with a slit in the end

argo4.jpga7.jpg

the heads were 3/4 inch so if .020= 1 inch at 1"48 scale at scale the bolt head is .015

or are you talking actual bolts used in steam engines? like these 1840

. Bolts. Feb.jpg
 
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whiskers said:
On a 1/48 scale model what size bolts would be appropriate? By that I mean the diameter of the head of the bolt.
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In 1/48 scale, simply divide the actual size of the part in question by 48 and that will give you the 1/48 scale size. This works the same for both metric and imperial units. For example. 1" diameter bolts with 2" heads were common during certain periods. At 1/48 scale, that would mean a bolt diameter of .021" with a head of .042". If there was a washer involved, divide the actual diameter of that washer by 48 for the scale size. As Dave made mention of, you need to 'define' / know what kind of bolt you are trying to replicate. There are many choices and styles of bolts and fasteners, and they all have different dimensions.
 
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Going further to Roger's post, the size and number of the bolts used in the various parts of the ship varied with nation, era, rate, etc. For British ships the number of bolts and their diameter can be found in the 1719, 1745 and 1750 Establishments as well as in The Shipbuilder's Repository 1788 and in David Steel's The Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture. What ship and items are you looking at for the particular number and size of bolts?
Allan
 
The following is based on the book Ships’ Fastenings by Michael McCarthy published by Texas A&M Press:

There were two groups of metal fastenings; nails and bolts used in the hull structure of wooden vessels. The difference depended on size with bolts being larger.

Unlike nails, there were several patterns of bolts. First of all bolts were either though bolts or “dump bolts.”

Through bolts were either forelocked or clinched. Forelocked bolts had a head on one end and a slot in the other. A key was driven into the slot to lock the bolt in place. Clinched bolts were secured by hammering the end without the head over an iron ring. Threaded fasteners as known today were not used.

Dump bolts were really large nails. They did not pass completely through the joined timbers. Their principal use was to reinforce joints secured by through bolts. They could also be used to secure timbers during construction before being through bolted.

Both types were driven through holes that were slightly smaller than the bolt.

Roger
 
whiskers said:
It’s for the Oneida. I saw where a fellow used black fishing line to simulate the bolts.
I found a place in Finland that has 2mm
Black bolts but these would be too big.
I thought real bolts would be much of an improvement over fish line.
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Cap'n Whiskers:
If we use Dave's calculation of the appropriate size of a bolt head at 0.015" (Post #2), we see that is about 10 times the diameter of a human hair, which is on the order of 0.0012" to 0.0024". As far as fishing line, it's about the diameter of monofilament line of 14 to 20 pound test. It's a little smaller than the diameter of common straight pins (0.021"). Most important, what do you want it to look like on the model? What would the bolts on a real vessel would look like from 100 feet away? Are you aiming for realistic construction or a real-looking model? Please let us know what you end up doing. Fair winds!
 
whiskers said:
It’s for the Oneida. I saw where a fellow used black fishing line to simulate the bolts.
I found a place in Finland that has 2mm
Black bolts but these would be too big.
I thought real bolts would be much of an improvement over fish line.
Click to expand...
If you are looking for hexagonal bolt heads you can use hexagonal styrene rod and chop pieces of it. Glue the slivers into place.
The rods come in multiple diameters.
plastruct.myshopify.com

90873 (MRX-40 / pack of 10)

SOLID STYRENE HEXAGONAL ROD Cut into short lengths and use for bolt heads in all forms of steel assembly, including bridges, vehicles, etc. Also good for steel and wood column members in all forms of commercial and residential structures. Precision Extruded in White Styrene Plastic. Ideal for...
plastruct.myshopify.com plastruct.myshopify.com
Rob
 
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If round, copper wire is great. Predrill, then hammer it in place, file it flat if need be then clean it up with some acetone and touch it with a tiny bit of diluted liver of sulfur which will oxidize it black instantly. It comes in many diameters to cover the range of diameters you will need,
Allan
 
Revolutionary war era ships were NOT built with threaded bolts and nuts. The first two photos of Dave Stevens post #2 above accurately shows what these bolts looked like. The second photo clearly shows the bolt end hammered over its clench ring.

Roger
 
Revolutionary war era ships were NOT built with threaded bolts and nuts. The first two photos of Dave Stevens post #2 above accurately shows what these bolts looked like. The second photo clearly shows the bolt end hammered over its clench ring.

Roger

those pictures you refer to are the Argo so those bolts were still in use long after the Revolutionary war era

Registry and Rig Information
Name ARGO
Registry U.S.
Official Number 1427
Rig Steamer
Dimensions and Tonnage
Length 91.00
Width 19.50
Depth 7.00
Gross Tonnage 111.00
Hull Material Wood
Vessel History
Rebuilds Rebuilt by Jenkins at Windsor, Ontario, and launched on June 9, 1864. Read measured at Detroit, MI, on July 8, 1864 (91.42 x 18.16 x 7.5; 118.53 gross). Reportedly had upperworks removed and used as barge across Detroit River, winter of 1872-1873.
Disposition Final enrollment surrendered at Detroit, MI, on January 15, 1879, and endorsed \"out of commission.\"
Build Information
Place Built Detroit, MI
Date Built 1849-00-00
 
whiskers said:
Could someone please answer the following question:

On a 1/48 scale model what size bolts would be appropriate? By that I mean the diameter of the head of the bolt.

Thanks
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1. Bolts to do what?
2. The answer to that question gives you the answer.
 
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