Micro Mark Clamps

rtibbs

rtibbs

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Been using this clamp for years and recently added 'New ones' to my inventory and have had several that have come apart. The old style had the screw part fully encapsulated in the aluminum handle. The new style has the screw splined and pressed into the handle.
Just curious if anyone else has experienced this.

Old style_New style.png
Old & New.png
 
To fix this you can use loctite as a gap-filling adhesive, then press the screw back into its hole with a vice. Then re-clamp it in the vice with the screw pointing at the sky and with a small sharp punch tap a ring of indentations around the entry point. This spreads the metal and will help to retain the screw. Bad design though.
 
Alan Smith said:
To fix this you can use loctite as a gap-filling adhesive, then press the screw back into its hole with a vice. Then re-clamp it in the vice with the screw pointing at the sky and with a small sharp punch tap a ring of indentations around the entry point. This spreads the metal and will help to retain the screw. Bad design though.
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Alan, I've done just that and had some success. I agree the new design sucks. Not something the consumer should have to do. Never had an issue with the original design. Of course the worst part is the head comes off when you tighten the clamp down and then you're left with removing the screw with a pair of needle nosed pliers.
 
rtibbs said:
Just curious if anyone else has experienced this.
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Please take this for what it is worth it is not meant to be denigrating in any way. If planks are properly shaped by spiling or hot/wet edge bending as needed before setting them on the hull, clamps are unnecessary. When planking if a plank does not stay put and tight after holding it with finger pressure for a minute or less using PVA I know it needs to be additionally shaped and will adjust as needed. I prefer PVA but some folks prefer CA and if it is used, it works in seconds. I used this type of clamp many years ago but once I learned how to plank properly I have not had to use them. An added plus is that finger pressure does not dent the wood as will a metal clamp.
Allan
 
i use rubber bands wrapped around the hull and a piece of wood under to hold the work down. you will get pretty crafty how you place the rubber bands and scraps to pin the planks at just the right angles.

btw that 2 piece design will allow you to use more clamps and just the one driver. what size screws are those? how about using drywall screws #6 and very sharp tips. you can get finish dry wall screws in #4 as well. then a cross point screw driver is all ya need.
 
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I use rubber bands a lot. Also, aeromodellers elastic strip - feet of it make very versatile clamps. I discovered this a long time ago when restoring antique chairs - then I used to use spiral-cut strips from old style car innertubes.
 
This style clamp is useful, I have several, so try to fix them with adhesive and punching indents as described above…or self insure by throwing away the faulty clamps and buying a new set. For me buying a new set is easier than trying to fix…but then I can be lazy with such things! :)
 
danielsje said:
This style clamp is useful, I have several, so try to fix them with adhesive and punching indents as described above…or self insure by throwing away the faulty clamps and buying a new set. For me buying a new set is easier than trying to fix…but then I can be lazy with such things! :)
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I agree. I don't fix I replace :D Just pointing out new manufacturing process isn't always better. IMHO

Of course if I was as proficient as AllanKP69 I probably wouldn't require clamps.
 
I have an old set I purchased a new set two weeks ago and already one of the new set came apart I repaired it with lock tight. I will see if it works
 
rtibbs said:
Been using this clamp for years and recently added 'New ones' to my inventory and have had several that have come apart. The old style had the screw part fully encapsulated in the aluminum handle. The new style has the screw splined and pressed into the handle.
Just curious if anyone else has experienced this.

View attachment 459638
View attachment 459639
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Have had the same problem with the splined screw. A dab of super glue did the trick.
 
On my Galilee Boat, the planks twisted and turned the length of the boat. Some planks would start out vertical, then went horizontal, and finally back to vertical. I used every method mentioned above. I even built a steam box. At one point, the only method that worked was to nail a small scrap of plank to the hull to keep it down while the ca glue set.
 
One trick for planking (which works best on solid frame stock, rather than plywood bulkhead edges) is to use PVA adhesive and applying heat to the outside of the plank with small a clothes iron or plank-bending iron. Care needs to be taken not to scorch the plank face, but the heat will cause the water in the PVA to evaporate fairly quickly and the PVA will set up rather quickly when heated in this way. A plank can be progressively glued down from one end to the other in this fashion.
 
I used to use an iron for forming planks but have found a hot air gun is easier to work and if set at a temperature under the ignition point of wood, there is no danger of scorching the wood. I usually choose a setting of around 250 to 300 degrees F. Just another means to the same end.
Allan
 
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