Hey howya goin all, what is the downside of using Minwax wipe on poly water based over the oil base one, whats the difference between the two types apart from water based and oil based? :character-yoshi:
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Aussie048
Guest
Re: Minwax wipe on poly water base Vs oiled base
<t>Hi Eddie<br/>
<br/>
The oil based wipe on poly is more durable than the water based.</t>
<t>Hi Eddie<br/>
<br/>
The oil based wipe on poly is more durable than the water based.</t>
Thanks mate. :character-yoshi:
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Aussie048
Guest
Eddie
Brian is the best one to answer the question. It is in his field.
Cheers
Geoff
Brian is the best one to answer the question. It is in his field.
Cheers
Geoff
Eddie,
Oil and water-based urethanes are different things. Oil based will give you a bit of a warm yellow color. Water based is a suspended particular finish that is nearly completely devoid of any additional color. This often leaves a cold, shallow look. My best recommendation is to try each on a sample. If you are not testing your finishing then you are testing it on your model. Not a good idea.
Personally I find urethanes to be too thick of a coating for a model even though they are popular. The 'Wipe-on' product is a diluted edition of the regular product.
I will be working out that I will use on my deck in the next month or so and I am thinking of trying shellac.
Hope this helps,
Doug
Oil and water-based urethanes are different things. Oil based will give you a bit of a warm yellow color. Water based is a suspended particular finish that is nearly completely devoid of any additional color. This often leaves a cold, shallow look. My best recommendation is to try each on a sample. If you are not testing your finishing then you are testing it on your model. Not a good idea.
Personally I find urethanes to be too thick of a coating for a model even though they are popular. The 'Wipe-on' product is a diluted edition of the regular product.
I will be working out that I will use on my deck in the next month or so and I am thinking of trying shellac.
Hope this helps,
Doug
I curious about anybody’s else opinion about the two types of poly.
O.K well I will chime in with my comment as I am in the trade so to speak.
The oil based Poly is a harder finish and absorbs into the pores of the timber. It does give a better warmer look to the timber, but the downside is it yellows and darkens the timber with age.
The water based is low odour and quick drying, so multiple coats can be applied in a day. It also holds the colour of the timber better and does not darken as much as oil based poly. The downside is its not as hard a finish and can scratch .
I personally use the oil based wipe on poly myself, it just looks better in my opinion.
The oil based Poly is a harder finish and absorbs into the pores of the timber. It does give a better warmer look to the timber, but the downside is it yellows and darkens the timber with age.
The water based is low odour and quick drying, so multiple coats can be applied in a day. It also holds the colour of the timber better and does not darken as much as oil based poly. The downside is its not as hard a finish and can scratch .
I personally use the oil based wipe on poly myself, it just looks better in my opinion.
Thanks Brian. I never knew that orthought about that. If you put it in a case, then the scratching becomes unimportant and you can touch up the model just before putting it inside.
On A painted surface if I have spryed a couple of coats of DULLCOTE to protect the model during construction, is it OK OR NOT to put on a coat of water based Poly, I am using TAMIYA ACRLICS,,,,,,als have a model done in Cherry have used a MIN-WAX natural finish on the areas that I would not be able to reach latter on in the Build, I intended to use a couple of coats of DULLCOATS AFTER COMPLETION TO MAKE IT EASIER TO CLEAN AND KEEP DUST OFF, the natural stainn turned the Cherry a much darker color which I do not mind at all. THANKS Don
Good question Don. I am currently applying a coat of wipe on poly to the frames of my plank on frame model as it will be difficult to assess this area at a later date when I start to install the deck beams.
Both Dullcote either/or water based poly will work to seal paint. They both do the same thing. I have found both Dullcote and/or Polycrylic to be compatible with Tamiya paints. Dullcote will provide a flat finish where Polycrylic is be more of a semi-gloss. Either/or is fine.
Thanks Guys for the tips and help, Brian doing the same to my Halifax build getting a coat of MIN-WAX NATURAL on the iinaccesible areas before the deck beams are installed. Don
Thinking of using oil based wipe on poly on the La Salamandre hull as a sealer after sanding and pre planking as Brian has been using on his HMS Enterprise. I have some reservations to how this might affect glueing of planks and other components further down the build. Any opinions to how this finish might affect adhesion with PVA type glues?
I scrape away the areas to be glued that have varnish on them. It's simple.