Mitre cutter won’t cut…

stuglo said:
I have a different (plastic) version- useless apart from marking the cut/
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COR, hate to break it to ya, but I have to agree with stuglo. I’ve had one similar to this, along with Micro Mark’s “chop-it”, and they both work great if you’re not cutting anything harder than small balsa strips. If you want to (accurately) cut the harder woods, you’ll need to step up a bit. Just having this similar conversations on another thread, but the other end of the scale is the Ultimation Slicer. For me, it was a buy 3, cry 3 times, but it’s the last one I’ll ever need.
 
here is the image for the Ultimation Slicer FrankW mentioned, and the link

1700159126307.png

ultimation.ca

Slicer | *New*

The Slicer is a the ultimate tool for making precise square cuts in wood & thin plastic material. Watch video demonstration Slicer Features Replaceable self-healing cutting surface Rotating fence for full range of precise angle cuts Readily available; easy to change blades Ergonomic design for...
ultimation.ca
 
Not trying to be a wise guy here, but does it have a blade mounted on it and installed so it meets the lower table flush when the handle is all the way down? As mentioned above, what are you trying to cut?
 
Corsair said:
Not trying to be a wise guy here, but does it have a blade mounted on it and installed so it meets the lower table flush when the handle is all the way down? As mentioned above, what are you trying to cut?
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Thank you for your time. I try to cut the strips for the deck planking..
 
Corsair said:
Its Sycamore. If you look in the instructions and get the part number, then you can cross-reference it with the parts list. :) That's a pretty tough wood for that tool you have.waste of money then..
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Corsair said:
Its Sycamore. If you look in the instructions and get the part number, then you can cross-reference it with the parts list. :) That's a pretty tough wood for that tool you have.
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Waste of money then
 
Try placing some thin scrap paper of wood underneath the cutting area to give the blade more space to cut down into.

I have another cheap brand and sometimes I have to flip the wood over and cut from both sides.
 
Sadly, unless you're willing to shell out a lot of cash, what you're going to find on the inexpensive end of the market aren't the greatest. If you stick with your existing one, the only thing I can think of would be to create an insert (if possible) to slightly raise the cutting bed by a couple of millimetres. Then you should be able to get a cut done with it.

That said, this is one from AliExress that looks pretty much identical to one I purchased for about six times as much money. It actually works pretty well, once you figure out how to set it up. I've used it to cut stock as large as 4x4mm walnut, and that's pretty good. The bigger remaining challenge will be how to actually change the blade when the time comes. That part doesn't seem so intuitive.
Cutting Tool

The second cutting tool I have is a an Amati Master Cut... here's a link to one I found on eBay, but you can source them from lots of places. It's very inaccurate in regards to consistent length, and I've resorted to taping wood to the cutting base to act as a back stop for the material when cutting repeated pieces (like for decking planks). So with a few mods, its good for doing deck planking. Pretty much useless for making accurate mitre cuts.
Amati Master Cut
 
I have an el cheapo cutter from ModelExpo and it works fine…the secret is to keep a sharp blade in place and keep it adjusted. My el cheapo takes one sided razor blades. I change them fairly often. So far it is working except for very hard woods…it that case I use a hobby chop saw…just my experience…
 
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