The Lifeboat.
This is a vacuum form piece that is supplied with the kit.
The basic form should be cut free of excess plastic, using a sharp knife.
The ridge pole is made of 1/16''x 1/4" scrap strip shaped as the bottom of the life boat.
For the canvas cover and according to the instruction you could used 2"masking tape. This is the first time I tried this and came out pretty good.
I glue two pieces first.
Then I placed the lifeboat upside down on top of the glues side.
Fold the edges stretching the tape as much as possible but not too much since the life boat is very thing.
Cut the tape alone the edges leaving at least 1/8" to create a border. This could also be accomplished by adding an 1'/8" tape strip.
Also cut 4 pieces for each side, of triangular shape to resemble the tie down of the canvas.
In this picture, you only see three but later on I changed it to be 4 pieces.
I also built my own life boat stand since the one from the blueprint was too small.
This is a vacuum form piece that is supplied with the kit.
The basic form should be cut free of excess plastic, using a sharp knife.
The ridge pole is made of 1/16''x 1/4" scrap strip shaped as the bottom of the life boat.
For the canvas cover and according to the instruction you could used 2"masking tape. This is the first time I tried this and came out pretty good.
I glue two pieces first.
Then I placed the lifeboat upside down on top of the glues side.
Fold the edges stretching the tape as much as possible but not too much since the life boat is very thing.
Cut the tape alone the edges leaving at least 1/8" to create a border. This could also be accomplished by adding an 1'/8" tape strip.
Also cut 4 pieces for each side, of triangular shape to resemble the tie down of the canvas.
In this picture, you only see three but later on I changed it to be 4 pieces.
I also built my own life boat stand since the one from the blueprint was too small.
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For the Life Boat Davits I used the 3/32" brass tubes that comes with the kit but before I bent them into shape I inserted solid 1/16" long enough that would leave a 3/16" gap at the tip so I could receive an eyebolt.
AlsoI bought at my local hardware store four small plastic flanges 3/16" i.d. to use as davit bases.
Since the flange openings were a bit too wide I inserted some aluminum sleeves in them.
To bend the tubes I used this handy guy that I had none of my work shop drawers.
This is how they looked after installation.
Also notice the brass cleats I made out of 3/16" brass rods.
This is how the davits came out.
After I had them glued to the top deck I realized that it needed some kind of hook or cleats to receive the curled end of he cables, so I glue a couple of 3/16" rods bent upwards on the sides. This would have come out much better and stronger if I had soldered them before installation.
The lattice work on the back end of the upper deck is something I added because I saw in another built model, besides it gives a nice look to that section.
AlsoI bought at my local hardware store four small plastic flanges 3/16" i.d. to use as davit bases.
Since the flange openings were a bit too wide I inserted some aluminum sleeves in them.
To bend the tubes I used this handy guy that I had none of my work shop drawers.
This is how they looked after installation.
Also notice the brass cleats I made out of 3/16" brass rods.
This is how the davits came out.
After I had them glued to the top deck I realized that it needed some kind of hook or cleats to receive the curled end of he cables, so I glue a couple of 3/16" rods bent upwards on the sides. This would have come out much better and stronger if I had soldered them before installation.
The lattice work on the back end of the upper deck is something I added because I saw in another built model, besides it gives a nice look to that section.
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Galley Stack was made fro 1/4" wood dowel supplied with the kit but I added a small twist to it by using a small piece of .010 brass leftover.
First I sprayed the dowel with flat black and seal it with semigloss clear, after dried I cut of there small 1/16" brass rods and added evenly at the top.
First I sprayed the dowel with flat black and seal it with semigloss clear, after dried I cut of there small 1/16" brass rods and added evenly at the top.
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The Steering Servo Covers, After Bitt and Stern Grate.
The servo cables are made from 1/16" x 1/4" planking stock.
Self explanatory
Stern Grate made from 3/32" stock material. I built it and then stain it and seal it before installation.
The servo cables are made from 1/16" x 1/4" planking stock.
Self explanatory
Stern Grate made from 3/32" stock material. I built it and then stain it and seal it before installation.
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If you want to build this model to be R/C you will need to use this material for the riding of your forward and aft masts so your upper structure could be removable.
It's a black elastic material so when pull over the hooks in the masts, it will look like black rope.
It's a black elastic material so when pull over the hooks in the masts, it will look like black rope.
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2022
- Messages
- 3
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- 3
VERY nice! Great job on the planking and the details. I built BlueJacket's version which I think is about 1/3 smaller, wish I could have left the hull unpainted but I needed to ensure it was watertight.
Once again, great job.
Once again, great job.