Thank you Bruce. This is what I was thinking. I'll take some centerline measurements later today. And maybe some profile drawings to compare with the plans. I didn't lay the bulkheads down on the plans bulkhead drawings to see if they match before I glued them into place. Since they are laser cut one would think they were the correct size.
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Thanks Rob, I get it now. Bruce's response probably answers your question. A common problem with several kit manufacturers is that the moulded dimension of the top timbers (or tops of the bulkheads) to which the is too large. I have no idea if it is correct on yours, but a 14 gun contract from 1776 has the top of the toptimbers as:
To be moulded in & out at the Toptimber heads or top of the sides at midships 3 3/8 ins. (0.07" at 1:48 scale)
Hope this helps.
Allan
Thanks Allan. I know you are a ship technical person. I've read several of your posts. But... "but a 14 gun contract from 1776 has the top of the toptimbers as:" How in the heck would your know that!!! 
Google tells me .07" is about 1.8mm. I'll go with that or close to it.
I'm not a ship technical person at all. Probably just the opposite. I just mostly stick things together that look good to me, usually without much regard to the technical aspects or colors. I don't like all the RED inside the deck area, so I'm not doing that. Maybe a little red or a very weak looking red.
To me just just a fun hobby that gives me (with no real life to speak of something to do when I'm not out in the yard picking tomatoes or feeding birds, rabbits and sqjirrels. Oh... And riding my Harley. Been riding since I was 13. That's about 64 years. Though not nearly as much fun now as there aren't really any 'backroads' anymore. Cars everywhere.
I have mostly faired in the bow area about 1/2 way back towards the stern. I ran a thin, narrow strip over the area and glued in some strips on the few bulkheads that were too low.
Google tells me .07" is about 1.8mm. I'll go with that or close to it.I'm not a ship technical person at all. Probably just the opposite. I just mostly stick things together that look good to me, usually without much regard to the technical aspects or colors. I don't like all the RED inside the deck area, so I'm not doing that. Maybe a little red or a very weak looking red.
To me just just a fun hobby that gives me (with no real life to speak of
something to do when I'm not out in the yard picking tomatoes or feeding birds, rabbits and sqjirrels. Oh... And riding my Harley. Been riding since I was 13. That's about 64 years. Though not nearly as much fun now as there aren't really any 'backroads' anymore. Cars everywhere.I have mostly faired in the bow area about 1/2 way back towards the stern. I ran a thin, narrow strip over the area and glued in some strips on the few bulkheads that were too low.
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Hi,
How is the kit designed?
Does the kit have a gun port template - a single piece running from bow to stern with the gun ports pre-cut, installed outboard of the ribs? This plus the outer bulwark planks would diminish the cap rail overhang. After installing the gunport template the ribs are snapped off.
In other words the outboard edge of the rib does not represent the final outboard edge of the hull.
How is the kit designed?
Does the kit have a gun port template - a single piece running from bow to stern with the gun ports pre-cut, installed outboard of the ribs? This plus the outer bulwark planks would diminish the cap rail overhang. After installing the gunport template the ribs are snapped off.
In other words the outboard edge of the rib does not represent the final outboard edge of the hull.
Hi Rich. No template. You fabricate the gunports and set them in between the bulkheads. There is a small rail overhang. The rail is flush on the inside and overhangs on the outside.
Per the instructions:
A point of note: The plans show the cap rail, and other rails are similar, as built on the Rogers model. The inboard
edge o f the rail is flush with the bulwark ceiling (inboard plank) while the outboard edge of the cap rail extends
beyond the plank and is slightly rounded. The normal practice for a real ship would be to have the cap rail overhang
slightly both outboard and inboard (a bit more outboard than in). You can make this change if you so desire.
I don't know who Roger is. It might have been a buid on modelshipworld??
Per the instructions:
A point of note: The plans show the cap rail, and other rails are similar, as built on the Rogers model. The inboard
edge o f the rail is flush with the bulwark ceiling (inboard plank) while the outboard edge of the cap rail extends
beyond the plank and is slightly rounded. The normal practice for a real ship would be to have the cap rail overhang
slightly both outboard and inboard (a bit more outboard than in). You can make this change if you so desire.
I don't know who Roger is. It might have been a buid on modelshipworld??
Henry Huddelston Rogers donated his collection of model ships to the Naval Academy when he passed away in the 1930's I believe. Look him up, he's an interesting man.
I see you noticed that the main rail would overhang on both sides but on the model it is flush with the interior planking. That's the fun of this particular build. You can choose to follow the Rogers model in the Naval Academy when you want to or you could make your build a little more accurate.
The Rogers Model for example does not have a waterway however the kit properly shows one. The mast top is simplified in the kit and matches the Rogers model as well. It's up to you to detail or not.
Takes the pressure off of everything having to be exact. A lower level of detail in a consistent manner would not detract from the final result. Not saying that anything goes, that would be bologna, but you can relax a little and if you miss something you will still have a beautiful model in the end.
If you're looking to go bat guano crazy I posted a list of good resources for people to use, search Fair American 1780 general information.
Bruce
I see you noticed that the main rail would overhang on both sides but on the model it is flush with the interior planking. That's the fun of this particular build. You can choose to follow the Rogers model in the Naval Academy when you want to or you could make your build a little more accurate.
The Rogers Model for example does not have a waterway however the kit properly shows one. The mast top is simplified in the kit and matches the Rogers model as well. It's up to you to detail or not.
Takes the pressure off of everything having to be exact. A lower level of detail in a consistent manner would not detract from the final result. Not saying that anything goes, that would be bologna, but you can relax a little and if you miss something you will still have a beautiful model in the end.
If you're looking to go bat guano crazy I posted a list of good resources for people to use, search Fair American 1780 general information.
Bruce
One of the fun things for some model builders is looking at contemporary information. Some do, some don't. As you say, it is a hobby and we all have choices in what will make the hobby fun. Regarding contracts, for ships built in private yards, there are some contracts on the RMG Collections website. There are more at the National Archives in Kew, England but unfortunately for most of us, they require visit to the archives to access them.
Allan