modeling putty

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ken s

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Roswell, Ga
Can regular wood filler be used a 'modeling putty"? Don't see why not. Looked at hobby lobby, michaels and they don't seem to really have any section.
 
ken s said:
Can regular wood filler be used a 'modeling putty"? Don't see why not. Looked at hobby lobby, michaels and they don't seem to really have any section.
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It depends on what material you will use it. For wood crack filling yes, wood putty will be great. One of my best ones is Elmer's carpenters wood filler. It comes in many different kinds, for various jobs as required. Dry fast, sands really smooth, didn't crack over time and it is stainable!
 
Not sure if the consistency is that good for actual modeling or how does it stand the test of time
 
Wood filler it is. Thank you for everyone's advice. All I want to do is fill in a few low spots. This is my first double planking and might as well fill in the low spots now before outer planking.
 
Hello Ken, you may consider to use scrap of wood on low spots (before using the wood filler) If a spot is too deep, you will require more filler and multiple layers... If you glue the scrap of wood, then you can sand it flush. ;)
 
I'm not sure if solvent based is necessary. I've been using Timber Mate and really like it. No sign of checking, shrinking or cracking, even on a stalled project that has gone from New Mexico to California to Rhode Island and back again over a couple of years.
 
SAVE your sawdust, it makes a great filler. I've mixed it with 5 min epoxy, PVC glue and carpenter's glue if I'm going to paint it. If I want to stain it then I lay up the sawdust followed with a coat of thin coats of thin CA until saturated enough to bond. It's all sandable. The 1st three I usually paint over and the CA I can usually stain over. Try it, it usually takes a bit of experimentation but I think you'll find it works and you have all the materials at hand even colors that match when staining.
 
Mikey
How is the big nickel? Haven’t been up to your parts in a few years. I like your advice. No way you can beat the match of saw dust. Been using that for as long as I can remember.


John
 
Hi,
For those pesky low spots I glue in a proper thickness in the depression then sand it down, works great and is a Buick fix.
 
John,
five minute epoxy is an incredible substance, I've mixed it with cigarette ash dries with an incredible high gloss finish and it becomes a high carbon epoxy, sand it and holds paint exceptionally, for colors I used colored chalks experiment. when I worked the model RR scene I used to make interior and exterior building lites , I made silicone moulds and embed a fibre optic into it and you've got one of those dull factory or exterior ship lites. Make a silicone mould and the pour with epoxy and the right additive and you have a real inexpensive reproduction. Got no hobby shop and the nearest one is a 100 mi. away, you learn to be inventive. Commercial fillers are too coarse and can't be sanded as smooth as I like, I also use automotive glazing putties and have never had them crack once painted. That's it for now, I'm sure glad to hear from John and it' nice to know at 75, I'm not the only one to have been doing this all my life. I'll be glad to share any of my lifetime of knowledge with other modelers and although it's hard to build models now I love your web site. I wait for Saturday and read every article and love how the art has progressed over the years. Thanks guys.
 
pebbleworm said:
I'm not sure if solvent based is necessary. I've been using Timber Mate and really like it. No sign of checking, shrinking or cracking, even on a stalled project that has gone from New Mexico to California to Rhode Island and back again over a couple of years.
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I like to wet sand! Hence solvent......;-)
 
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