ModelShipways Norwegian Sailing Pram In Progress

O

OldeManToad

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Jan 11, 2025
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I decided even though I have partially completed the Sailing Pram I would start my own build log to make it easier to ask questions rather than crashing other's build logs. Received the Grand Banks Dory kit with tools for Christmas and completed the model in the middle of February. I very much enjoyed building it so decided to continue with the three ship series. Sent my picture to ModelExpo and got the full credit for the Dory kit. I then immediately ordered the Norwegian Sailing Pram and the Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack kits. The next day I realized I had ordered the Midwest Lobster Smack instead of the Model Shipways version. I notified them via their online form and did not get a response until after the kits had shipped. I was then told there was no way the order could have been changed after being placed. So now I could pay to return the Midwest kit and reorder the correct one with more shipping charges and possibly miss out on the Feb. 1/2 price sales, or just keep the Midwest one which I decided to do.

Picture of my finished Dory
20250209_140837.jpg

To be continued...
 
I started this kit on March 3 and immediately ran into an issue. It seems the manufacturer failed to print labels on several of my sheets of wood parts. I had to go online to find a picture of what they should have been. For any others with same issue here is the picture I found.


PramLaserCut1.jpg

So here are some pictures from my progress so far:

20250316_115201.jpg20250317_112627.jpg
 
I think the Dory is wonderful! Your sailing pram is off to a good start. There are a number of build logs for the sailing pram. I like to study them and see the different ways various parts of the project was done by different people. It is a good way to avoid mistakes. My build log is here.

https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/...odel-shipways-building-log.13671/#post-358217

Don't hesitate to contact me with any questions! Good Luck and have fun!

Rob
 
Thank you, Russ and Rob for the compliments. I have viewed all of the build logs for both the Dory and the Pram. I've gained a lot of knowledge from them.

Here are the latest pics showing the dagger board case installed. I removed the parts for the case before reading the directions and had a hard time determining the tops from the bottoms and which end faced the bow. I'm not sure how much it matters. Also the hole in the keel strake was bigger than the dagger board case so I moved it forward knowing that an internal frame will rests right behind it covering the hole.

A couple things I wished I had done before I started building the Pram. 1, Sand the char off of the building board frames. As you can see the char left stripes on the inside of the hull. 2. I wish that I had put shims between the building board and the transoms. I have a very small amount of twist in the hull. Model Shipways should increase the length of the building board by a 1/4 inch on each end and increase the size of the part of the two transoms that get cut off so that the transoms rest squarely on the building board. 20250319_175432.jpg

I'll start adding the internal frames tomorrow.

20250319_154715.jpg
 
You're doing well, OldMan. All those things you wished you had or had not done are all things you have learned for your next model. That's the advantage of cutting your teeth on these smaller, less expensive projects. Once you graduate to a $1000 ship of the line, you'll have a lot of mistakes behind you.
 
OldeManToad said:
Thank you, Russ and Rob for the compliments. I have viewed all of the build logs for both the Dory and the Pram. I've gained a lot of knowledge from them.

Here are the latest pics showing the dagger board case installed. I removed the parts for the case before reading the directions and had a hard time determining the tops from the bottoms and which end faced the bow. I'm not sure how much it matters. Also the hole in the keel strake was bigger than the dagger board case so I moved it forward knowing that an internal frame will rests right behind it covering the hole.

A couple things I wished I had done before I started building the Pram. 1, Sand the char off of the building board frames. As you can see the char left stripes on the inside of the hull. 2. I wish that I had put shims between the building board and the transoms. I have a very small amount of twist in the hull. Model Shipways should increase the length of the building board by a 1/4 inch on each end and increase the size of the part of the two transoms that get cut off so that the transoms rest squarely on the building board. View attachment 508471

I'll start adding the internal frames tomorrow.

View attachment 508470
Click to expand...
Looking good. The char will not matter the paint will cover it. with the dagger board case, make sure a painted dagger board will fit in it easily, you may have to sand the dagger board down (as me how I know!) It is hard to tell but make sure the planks are covering enough. I made this mistake and had to cut the transom down a bit more than it indicated on the transom. It really didn't effect the final outcome.

Rob
:)
 
Added bottom frames 1,2, and 3, the inwales, and the quarter knees for both stern and bow. For the inwales I used the hot water outwale method to bend them. This consisted of clipping them to the outside of the sheer strake until dry before trimming and installing them to the inside of the sheer strake.

Here is a picture of today's progress:

20250320_191758.jpg

20250320_191758.jpg

20250320_191825.jpg
 
OldeManToad said:
I decided even though I have partially completed the Sailing Pram I would start my own build log to make it easier to ask questions rather than crashing other's build logs. Received the Grand Banks Dory kit with tools for Christmas and completed the model in the middle of February. I very much enjoyed building it so decided to continue with the three ship series. Sent my picture to ModelExpo and got the full credit for the Dory kit. I then immediately ordered the Norwegian Sailing Pram and the Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack kits. The next day I realized I had ordered the Midwest Lobster Smack instead of the Model Shipways version. I notified them via their online form and did not get a response until after the kits had shipped. I was then told there was no way the order could have been changed after being placed. So now I could pay to return the Midwest kit and reorder the correct one with more shipping charges and possibly miss out on the Feb. 1/2 price sales, or just keep the Midwest one which I decided to do.

Picture of my finished Dory
View attachment 508447

To be continued...
Click to expand...
I've built all four of these kits and found them to be a bit challenging in their own way. (I built two of the dory kits so I could "nest" them. One was painted yellow ochre and the other was painted red ocher.) The main issue I had with the dory was the rope/line included with the kit is way too large (and out of scale) to pass through the holes in the bow and stern. I am puzzled why Model Shipways included the oversized nylon?/polyester? line in this kit. I had some older MS line that was far better and smaller, so I used that. I had a few issues with the pram, but managed to push on and finish it. As for the MS lobster smack, some of the slots in the hull pieces were cut too wide and I had to add shims to make the pieces fit. Nevertheless, I was able to finish the model and I am quite proud of it. I next built the Midwest Lobster Smack and made a few modifications based on my experience with the MS version. I used the sailmaking and lacing technique from the MS version on the Midwest Lobster Smack. I also copied the trail board pattern from the MS version, and cut and pasted it on the Midwest version. I found that there were some noticeable differences between the two lobster smacks in appearance, so I assumed they were two different versions built by different boatbuilders. All of these kits presented some challenges that can be overcome with a little ingenuity on your part.
 
FWIW, I also had the same missing part names on several of my wooden sheets. I contacted the Model Expo Support folks via email and explained what was missing. Within an hour, I received via return email two 8.5 X 11 PDF drawings of all of the wooden boards along with the names of each part below or beside that part.

I have been buying stuff from Model Expo for years and have always found them to be very good about responding to help requests and questions. I realize you solved your problem another way, but for future reference, I suggest that when there is any question/problem with a Model Expo kit, you inquire of them and possibly save yourself a lot of time and hunting.

Your model looks wonderful so far. Frankly, when I built mine, I found the hull the toughest part of the build. I have since bult many more ships from AL, Occre, MS, etc.

Keep on keepin' on ...
 
EJK, I had to contact Model Expo about my order I screwed up. They took way too long to reply. It was faster for me to search the internet for the picture of the parts that I needed. As too the hardest part for me, I found trimming and beveling the bottom frames and thwart frames the hardest. I did screw up on the hull right from the start with the keel plank. Don't know how but I didn't get it centered over the bottom planks. Therefore, my daggerboard case was off center. Today I unglued it, recut the hole for it and glued it back. I guess my skeg is also a hair off. A couple of my thwart fames also had to be removed and their alignment corrected. As careful as I try to be I always screw up somewhere. The nice thing about working in wood is usually can correct it.

Havanamak, When I was deciding whether or not to return the Midwest Smack I downloaded both sets of instructions. I definitely like the MS way of planking versus the two big planks on the Midwest. Also, the Midwest doesn't have the trail board pattern. So, I can just print out the MS manual page that has that on it and cut and paste it on the model? I'll take a look at the sail making and lacing techniques from the MS version too.

I'll be posting more pictures this evening.

Thanks everyone for the help.
 
Got a lot done today. Added the thwart frames, the floor cleats, and shaved down the bow and stern transoms. I thought about using a dremel tool to cut these down, but started to whittle with the Exacto blade and that ended up to be easy. Didn't have a 3/8" round file so I managed with a thin round file and flat file to make the cutout for the tiller. Also as I mentioned above, I relocated the daggerboard case to the centerline of the boat.

Next steps are the mast step, chain plate slots, rudder gudgeon pad, and the row lock pads. Can I just use a #11 blade instead of a #15 saw blade to make the chain plate slots?

A few mistakes here and there but so far very pleased with how it's turning out.


20250322_190515.jpg20250322_190528.jpg
 
OldeManToad said:
EJK, I had to contact Model Expo about my order I screwed up. They took way too long to reply. It was faster for me to search the internet for the picture of the parts that I needed. As too the hardest part for me, I found trimming and beveling the bottom frames and thwart frames the hardest. I did screw up on the hull right from the start with the keel plank. Don't know how but I didn't get it centered over the bottom planks. Therefore, my daggerboard case was off center. Today I unglued it, recut the hole for it and glued it back. I guess my skeg is also a hair off. A couple of my thwart fames also had to be removed and their alignment corrected. As careful as I try to be I always screw up somewhere. The nice thing about working in wood is usually can correct it.

Havanamak, When I was deciding whether or not to return the Midwest Smack I downloaded both sets of instructions. I definitely like the MS way of planking versus the two big planks on the Midwest. Also, the Midwest doesn't have the trail board pattern. So, I can just print out the MS manual page that has that on it and cut and paste it on the model? I'll take a look at the sail making and lacing techniques from the MS version too.

I'll be posting more pictures this evening.

Thanks everyone for the help.
Click to expand...
OldeManToad said:
EJK, I had to contact Model Expo about my order I screwed up. They took way too long to reply. It was faster for me to search the internet for the picture of the parts that I needed. As too the hardest part for me, I found trimming and beveling the bottom frames and thwart frames the hardest. I did screw up on the hull right from the start with the keel plank. Don't know how but I didn't get it centered over the bottom planks. Therefore, my daggerboard case was off center. Today I unglued it, recut the hole for it and glued it back. I guess my skeg is also a hair off. A couple of my thwart fames also had to be removed and their alignment corrected. As careful as I try to be I always screw up somewhere. The nice thing about working in wood is usually can correct it.

Havanamak, When I was deciding whether or not to return the Midwest Smack I downloaded both sets of instructions. I definitely like the MS way of planking versus the two big planks on the Midwest. Also, the Midwest doesn't have the trail board pattern. So, I can just print out the MS manual page that has that on it and cut and paste it on the model? I'll take a look at the sail making and lacing techniques from the MS version too.

I'll be posting more pictures this evening.

Thanks everyone for the help.
Click to expand...
OldeManToad, yes, since both models are the same scale, you can copy the trail board pattern from the MS version and glue it to the Midwest version. I can't remember if I had to do some minor trimming, but it was an easy fit.
 
Rob, thanks for the compliment. I didn't want to spend $10 to make two little slits. Just need to be careful not to split the inhale.

Havanamac, thanks for the info on the trail board pattern. I'll also look at the sail plans. Just wish the planking on the Midwest version was more like the MS version. Don't like the idea of carving the big chunk of balsa on the bow.
 
Fun With Thwarts

Ok, Completed the row (oar) lock pads, added the rub rails, sanded the dagger board and rudder.

<RANT> Now I'm starting on the thwarts. They seem to be much too long to simply sand them to size. Also, once I get the stern sheets properly sized, it appears they will sit at different heights. I set all of the thwart knees with the tops at the joint between the second strake and the sheer strake. For the other thwarts this won't be a problem, but for the stern sheets, the stern transom joint between two parts and the stern knee are at a higher level than the thwart knees. Am I the only one with this issue?

How easily did others have with fitting their thwarts? What's the best way to measure and trim the thwarts? I don't remember seeing any others complaining about thwarts on their build logs. </RANT>
 
OldeManToad said:
Fun With Thwarts

Ok, Completed the row (oar) lock pads, added the rub rails, sanded the dagger board and rudder.

<RANT> Now I'm starting on the thwarts. They seem to be much too long to simply sand them to size. Also, once I get the stern sheets properly sized, it appears they will sit at different heights. I set all of the thwart knees with the tops at the joint between the second strake and the sheer strake. For the other thwarts this won't be a problem, but for the stern sheets, the stern transom joint between two parts and the stern knee are at a higher level than the thwart knees. Am I the only one with this issue?

How easily did others have with fitting their thwarts? What's the best way to measure and trim the thwarts? I don't remember seeing any others complaining about thwarts on their build logs. </RANT>
Click to expand...
Wont know for sure until i build them, or look at the printed instructions, but from what I have seen reading the pdf file on the model expo website, alot of the "finer" dimensions are being left up to the person building it..

thus I think the kits are not exactly true representations. Meaning, you can expect accuracy if you purchased a Tamiya model of a bf/109 G6 and got a book on the G6 and measured the model kit parts youd be able to see if things were in the right spot or not.

Read the pdf for the skipjack kit. They say if you no like how the kit provided rigging blocks look, just cut them in half. And show a sketch of one cut in half next to an uncut block.
 
If I remember correctly My hull was actually a bit wider than the plans stated (It was probably my construction error). and the Thwarts were not tight. I don't think it should be any problem to trim them a bit. A file may be the way to go if you don't want to cut them. If you use a file I would file them along the length so they do not snap.
 
When the directions said to check measurement at the widest point I measured exactly 3 3/4" from the outside edges of the sheer strake. Usually you would expect to do some minor sanding to fit. I have a Drexel scroll saw that I can use to cut them quickly but afraid of cutting them too short. I'll try to file them. For the stern sheets, I'll probably have to build up the knees to keep everything level.
 
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