Because airbrushing typically puts down thin layers, they can receive a second coat sometimes in only minutes. No two paints are the same and a test shot along side your painting will let you see how dry your application is. Generally, I wait 20 to 30 minutes for my heavier coats. And I may even allow freshly painted surfaces to dry overnight if I am going to do any masking before my next application. And as always, test your results first if you have any doubts about results.
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This is a perfect advice but I never have patience to follow. When paint is set so it does not feel wet to my finger touch, I boldly go for another coat. I only use hand brushes. I do not use air brush. So far I was satisfied with the results. But it is only me. Do not try this at home.
If I may have a little input here. Best practice is to apply thin applications of paint. Acrylics paints and lacquer based paints will flash off fairly fast, depending on environmental factors like air temperatures/humidity. Enamel paints are slower drying and may wrinkle when over coated if not properly cured.
There is a difference between 'dry' and 'cured'. A surface may be dry but not fully through cured meaning that the surface will mark or leave a finger print when pressed. This is more likely to happen when using enamel paints but can also occur when thick coatings of Acrylics are applied. Enamels should be left over night to cure (as opposed to simply drying). Method of drying paint surfaces may alter the over-all final colour. That is, air drying, forced warm air drying (hair dryer) oven drying, waving the painted item out doors in the sunshine etc will contribute to variation in the final colour as will the application method such as by Spray vs Brush. So if part of a model is airbrushed and then another part of the model is brush painted using paint from the same tin/pale. do not expect the finished colour to be exact. - Use thin applications, allow plenty of time before recoating and if masking is to be carried out, overnight plus would be my recommendation.
In all scenarios patience and practice is required. Once a personal painting technique and familiarity with what ever paint type/brand is developed, then Bob's your Uncle, go for broke, make a splash and admire your work. regards.
There is a difference between 'dry' and 'cured'. A surface may be dry but not fully through cured meaning that the surface will mark or leave a finger print when pressed. This is more likely to happen when using enamel paints but can also occur when thick coatings of Acrylics are applied. Enamels should be left over night to cure (as opposed to simply drying). Method of drying paint surfaces may alter the over-all final colour. That is, air drying, forced warm air drying (hair dryer) oven drying, waving the painted item out doors in the sunshine etc will contribute to variation in the final colour as will the application method such as by Spray vs Brush. So if part of a model is airbrushed and then another part of the model is brush painted using paint from the same tin/pale. do not expect the finished colour to be exact. - Use thin applications, allow plenty of time before recoating and if masking is to be carried out, overnight plus would be my recommendation.
In all scenarios patience and practice is required. Once a personal painting technique and familiarity with what ever paint type/brand is developed, then Bob's your Uncle, go for broke, make a splash and admire your work. regards.