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Paint Recommendations, Tips and Guidance

L

Leakybottom

Joined
Jun 12, 2026
Messages
13
Points
8

Looking to get any recommendations on paints and tips for painting my hull and deck fixtures. I use Tamyia paints which I thin out for airbrushing but not too happy the results I get. Could be my airbrushing technique is subpar, so any suggestions are welcomed. Plus, they have VOCs that I am not thrilled about. I also use Model Expo brand paints, works okay for hand painting but not airbrushing as the paint clods my airbrush needle even when thinned. I use Rust-Oleum gray primer as my primer and seems to be okay? Maybe?? So any suggestions on paints and tips would all have is greatly appreciated.
 
Dear L,

Would like to help but you have not described your problem and what type of airbrush, single or double action etc.

Robert
 
Hello Novascotian
I have a Gaahleri Mobius double action airbrush, with a .3 mm needle and also an old Passche double action airbrush with a .5 mm needle. I am using Tamiya and Model Expo paints (not mixed together) with I dilute to about 50%. The issue I am having is that these paints always gum up my airbrushes with requires me to dissemble the airbrush to clean. I would like to use lower air pressure but that doesn't make the paint flow, so I have to use max pressure from my compressor to get the paint flowing with cause the paint to splatter instead of an even flow. So would have to brush paint the hull afterwards to get a smoother coverage. If you have any tips on setting and using my airbrush or paint recommendations would make painting more enjoyable.

LeakyB
 
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The first step I would suggest is to use sanding sealer or shellac on the wood to be painted. This will prevent the wood from soaking up the water based paint and reduce the raising of grain on the wood.I think Model expo paint is not ideal for airbrushing. You can also add a drop of flow improver to the paint to have a smoother flow.
 
I believe that cleaning an airbrush after each use is standard practice. You can’t avoid it! You can buy a paint sprayer that’s easier to clean. Badger makes a a basic air brush that just sprays paint. I believe that it’s their model 150.

Roger
 
Dear L.,

If your doing hull and deck furniture, single action is all you need but with double action it's not a problem. Make sure you seal the wood, (wood sealer or a mixture of watered down white glue) then fine sand your work. Use a tack cloth to get a clean surface. When it comes to paint, enamel over enamel, acrylic over enamel, lacquer base paint can be too hot. There are pre mixed air brush ready paint you might consider such as Valejo. You should filter your paint after mixing it, especially if it's old paint. Speaking of old paint.... you might do a 3:1 thinner paint ratio. Check your needle for any imperfections and make sure the nozzle is very clean. I know a little of your 1st airbrush but I think the Passche is a real good one. You shouldn't need more than 15 psi to brush. Humidity is also a factor that can drive you up the wall....get into a dryer environment. Pardon my ignorance....what does VOC mean. Cheers Robert
 
Hello All
Thanks for the tips, will try a 3:1 ratio and check out Valejo paints. I was on Micro Mark website and saw they have their own paints specifically for airbrush at a budget friendly price. Has anyone experienced with Micro Marks airbrush paints?

VOC = Volatile Organic Compounds , carbon compounds typically found in paints, varnishes, cleaning products, etc. that can cause irritation if in concentration
 
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Dear L.,

As an afterthought......On masking paint bleed, you can minimize this by applying a light mist to the tape edge but don't direct spray to tape edge but rather an oblique angle from back of tape. Doing this will help seal the tape rim. Some people have had issues with rustoleum primer but they make the mistake of spraying too soon without proper curing of the primer. Give it a full 24 hrs. or more. Vallejo Model Air paints are water based acrylics with glass cleaner thinner or cleanup. You can use Mr. Color Leveling thinner with Tamiya paints.
Cheers, Robert
 
Leakybottom said:
Hello All
Thanks for the tips, will try a 3:1 ratio and check out Valejo paints. I was on Micro Mark website and saw they have their own paints specifically for airbrush at a budget friendly price. Has anyone experienced with Micro Marks airbrush paints?

VOC = Volatile Organic Compounds , carbon compounds typically found in paints, varnishes, cleaning products, etc. that can cause irritation if in concentration
Click to expand...
For controlling VOCs:
Spray booth:
And mask:

Also I spray Tamiya paint either their regular or lacquer with good results. Use a sealer if the wood has a loose grain. I then apply Tamiya fine grain primer https://a.co/d/08TDJfSY, I think that the Rustoleum has too big a particule size for models. I dilute the paint 4:1 using Tamiya brand thinner. I then use a Paasche airbrush 0.2 nozzle/needle set at 20lbs pressure.

I try to stay within the same ecosystem of paint products. I found sometimes mixing and matching different brand thinners with different brand paints gives quirky results.

Here is a picture of one of the recent models I painted doing this technique.

 
There are many options for paint and paint applications that modelers consider favorites. I can only add to the discussion by suggesting what I do on my latest builds. First I do not spray paint…I am a brush only fan. I use MinWax matte polyurethane brush on as a sealer and a top coat. Flows well over raw wood, does not raise the grain, and dries hard. I coat all of my parts with this poly as I build. Glues adhere to poly coated parts. I then use regular hobby acrylic paints that one gets from hobby stores. It always flows nicely, dries smooth, and has a variety of color choices. I coat painted surfaces with the poly which enriches the paint. I top coat all surfaces of the model with the poly. So, my bench only has matte finish MinWax polyurethane and hobby store acrylic paints…and lots of brushes! :)
 
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Where is the benefit of using an airbrush on model ships of sail? Just brush, results as good without the trouble.
(What I use my airbrushes are for)

thumbnail_000_0282.jpg
 
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Leakybottom said:
Hello Novascotian
I have a Gaahleri Mobius double action airbrush, with a .3 mm needle and also an old Passche double action airbrush with a .5 mm needle. I am using Tamiya and Model Expo paints (not mixed together) with I dilute to about 50%. The issue I am having is that these paints always gum up my airbrushes with requires me to dissemble the airbrush to clean. I would like to use lower air pressure but that doesn't make the paint flow, so I have to use max pressure from my compressor to get the paint flowing with cause the paint to splatter instead of an even flow. So would have to brush paint the hull afterwards to get a smoother coverage. If you have any tips on setting and using my airbrush or paint recommendations would make painting more enjoyable.

LeakyB
Click to expand...
I have recently returned to plastic modeling after a gap of 20 years doung ships and the new paints world is complex but yields really excellent results. I use a Harder and Steenbeck double action airbrush that gave me fits to begin with. The easy fixes were to thin paint (even airbrush ready paint) at least 50%, thoroughly strip and clean the airbrush after each color....blowing through thinner just doesn't seem to get it.....and use the paint specific thinner for each paint. Then, and this has been a revelation.....add a retarder to the mix. I have never had a nozzle clog since adding them. Even complex WWII German aircraft mottling at low flow and low pressure doesn't faze it.
I set the compressor around the 16-18 psi, mark. Seems to be the rihht balance. I can also fix the amount of paint using the rear adjustment screw if I need a mist.
I find AK paints to be perfect. Vallejo are nice too and of course the old standby Tamiya. I have stopped using enamel altogether except for weathering options.
Mr. Surfacer is brilliant for priming and even brushes well. Mr Color if you like lacquers.
I confess that I've not done any of this on wood but if the grain is sealed I can't imagine there would be much of an issue.
But cleaning that airbrush is essential. Tighten the front nozzle. Get the ratios right. Set a low pressure. Use a paint retarder and use the paint maker's own thinners.
That seems to work well for me after many hours messing about finding the answer. The airbrush is a Rolls Royce and gets incredible results...if you play by the rules. It was much harder to master than my old Paasche but it also dies better work. It was built for illustrators and it shows.
 
Yes....but again....I try and use the flow improver/retarder the paint maker, makes! Is it different? I dunno, I haven't tried it. But I am pretty sure the paint maket tested their own stuff and know it works!
 
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