Pear Wood vs Cherry wood

Thank you for the information, I did wonder myself about it.

For my loud speakers at home they are all Cherry wood, even from different manufacturers, Tannoy and PMC. The PMC speakers I had to wait a few months to get them made as they were not available "off the shelf" so to speak, over the years they have gradually darkened even in my bat cave of a cinema.
 
I hope that I do not bring confusion to this topic, but I have been wondering the same thing and this answers a lot of my questions too. I plan to use Pear on my next project. So, @Dave Stevens (Lumberyard) may I ask this question then. I have never heard of steamed pearwood. So, what is Swiss Pearwood, Pearwood, and Steamed Pearwood? (or is it all the same thing, but just called by different names?)

pearwood, European pearwood, Swiss pearwood and steamed pearwood are all the same wood just different names.

Natural pearwood is a cream color with a tint of pink at the heartwood it is steamed to give it an even, slightly darker pink color.

80% of all pearwood is from Germany and it is brought into the US as a boule which is actually the entire trunk of one tree. The log is cut in 4/4 1 inch, 8/4 2 inches and sometimes 6/4

this is an order on its way to the Lumberyard, you could not even pick up one end of the top pieces the weight is hundreds of pounds. The length is around 12 feet and the end of that top piece is about 22 inches wide and tapers to around 13 inches. When you buy a boule you get everything knots, spits and sometimes a streak of rot. You figure 10 to 15% waist. Before you run out to buy a Boule of pearwood be ready the price for what you see is around $3,400.00

pear1.JPGpear2.JPGpear3.JPG
 
Hi all

I am looking to buy a model. In Cherry wood the price is $100 LESS than in Pear wood.

It is a POF HMS DRUID and you can see many internal details.

The higher cost of the Pear wood version is because is better than Cherry wood ?

If the answer is YES.... then Why is better ?

I would like to learn the differences that justify an extra $100. Is it color, grain, etc ?

Thank you
Daniel
Hi Daniel. They are both fruit woods of the rose family, and along with apple all are good to work with. The major difference with cherry (which I find easier to get in the UK) is there are often darker bands in the grain, if you can live with that I'd recommend it. I wouldn't know about varnish, I wouldn't consider using it, but a light protective clear coat spray doesn't affect the colour noticeably. Pear tends to come pre milled at sizes that are of little use to me but cherry can be bought in boards to mill at home. That helps to keep the cost very low. Careful about 'Swiss pear', often sold in the UK on ebay as pear. You can tell it from the price, if it's cheap etc.. It's not related, nor is it Swiss pear.
 
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It depends on were you use cherry? What type of cherry? Boxwood expensive but. Apple is very good, carving as is pear. I ask friends, neighbors and whoever. Other materials like English lime is excellent, for much of the carcasses, much cheaper. To build a model in one wood is ... better to use mixture. Are you making the making the masks as they would of been (strips? Central core Hawthorne? Some modelers in other countries are unable to get, so a mixture. There is excellent information on internet. You need a fine grain : jell-tong is another but not for all of model. I strongly suggest, if possible, visit your saw mill, they have off cuts. Store, recut or ask. 1 cubic foot of timber is normal for model. Cannons can be made of wood or paper but, if you have the set up lathe / casting. All depends on how much time / resources you have. Strongly suggest mixture of woods. By the way, they still sell wooden rulers here (box wood).
 
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