-
LUCZORAMA SHIPWRECK SCAVENGER HUNT GIVEAWAY. 4 Weeks of Fun • 1 Legendary Prize ((OcCre’s Fram Ship)) • Global Crew Welcome!
**VIEW THREAD HERE**
Can you be more specific? Is the first layer of planking coming off of the base structure of the bulkheads or is the second layer of planking coming off of the first layer? How did you affix the first layer of planking onto the bulkheads?
Maybe a few pictures would help too.
Maybe a few pictures would help too.
You would be better placed to use white carpenters wood glue for your planking.
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2023
- Messages
- 74
- Points
- 58
I did that first didn't work well, but I'm going to try that again it's the angler and surfiest, I noticed but sanding does the trick what do you think the sandpaper i use number 220 what you think?
thanks,
Planking screws from Micro mark, are your friend.
.
.
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2023
- Messages
- 74
- Points
- 58
yes, looks great, but it the second layer that's peeling a little paper planking
Sorry to read that you are experiencing peeling of the 2nd planking. I'm in the process of building the Polaris by Occre so there's not a whole lot of difference between the 2 builds. I chose not to use contact cement, but instead used white PVA glue which gave me some working time to adjust the planks as well as clean up any excess glue. I had good results.
If I recall, contact cement that is applied to the 2 pieces to be adhered must be dry (or nearly so) before assembling the 2 pieces together. Also, there is very little forgiveness as once the 2 pieces are joined, that's it. Stuck.
So the peeling issue raises a couple of questions such as: how thoroughly did you prepare the surface of the first planking in terms of removing the sanding dust? A poorly prepared surface would result in poor adhesion. How fresh or new is the contact cement?
Hope to see another post as to your findings and progress.
...henry
If I recall, contact cement that is applied to the 2 pieces to be adhered must be dry (or nearly so) before assembling the 2 pieces together. Also, there is very little forgiveness as once the 2 pieces are joined, that's it. Stuck.
So the peeling issue raises a couple of questions such as: how thoroughly did you prepare the surface of the first planking in terms of removing the sanding dust? A poorly prepared surface would result in poor adhesion. How fresh or new is the contact cement?
Hope to see another post as to your findings and progress.
...henry
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2023
- Messages
- 74
- Points
- 58
I sanded down very well, the peeling I'm talking about only in a few areas not a full peel ,Ur right about the glue I'm using white glue for wood glue both side then what I do now I use a Mimi roller to roll over my strips and it works very well, but you have to watch the striping very well and roll and roll overs, its working now ,thank you for Ur feedback ,,what sandpaper grid you do you recommend for the second layer what number i been using 800 i think i should go higher thank you
Last edited:
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2020
- Messages
- 2,078
- Points
- 488
agreed. i have a set and they work very well. A little pricey to get them to Canada, but such is life...
Have you had luck using them multiple times without breakage? I remember having these in the past but most of them broke. I learned soon thereafter that clamps are not needed for planking most of the time anyway. Spiled or otherwise pre-shaped planks go on with finger pressure for a few seconds with CA or maybe 45 seconds using carpenters glue. It appears that some of the kit makers are now supplying laser cut spiled planks which makes things a lot easier than in the past and no clamps needed.
Bluefish
I love the photo of the Montauk lighthouse in your avatar. Great striper fishing as well as your namesake fish out there. Do the instructions in the kit say to use contact cement? Contact cement for bare wood veneer, which is what you are doing with two layers of planking, is not considered a good idea by many wood and glue experts. The following gives some good information https://oakwoodveneer.com/what-is-wood-veneer/14-myths-about-using-contact-cement.html?
Allan
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2024
- Messages
- 998
- Points
- 353
Just an opinion worth what you paid for it.
There seems to be two related reasons for these double planked kits. First, unlike a true Plank on Frame model, the more widely spaced bulkheads may not provide enough support to give you a fair hull. This allows you to use a filler, aka Goop, to smooth out lumps and hollows before adding the second layer of planking. The second, related to the first, allows those preferring a natural wood look to put the supposedly kit supplied premium quality wood over an already faired hull.
If you plan to paint the model, which in my not so humble opinion is far more realistic, the second reason does not apply. If planks are losing adhesion, goop becomes your friend. Bondo automotive body putty works well and will give you a hard fair surface to paint.
40 or so years ago we used to spend a summer week at Cape May, NJ. I once signed up for a trip on a head boat for Bluefish. We went out at about 10PM. I thought that it would be great if I caught a fish. Long story short, three hours later, I sat down exhausted with a burlap bag of fish. I had fortunately brought a pair of pliers from my tackle box that I probably could have sold for the price of the trip. Somehow I managed to keep the fillets cold until we made it back to Ohio and we ate Bluefish all winter. Good times!
Roger
There seems to be two related reasons for these double planked kits. First, unlike a true Plank on Frame model, the more widely spaced bulkheads may not provide enough support to give you a fair hull. This allows you to use a filler, aka Goop, to smooth out lumps and hollows before adding the second layer of planking. The second, related to the first, allows those preferring a natural wood look to put the supposedly kit supplied premium quality wood over an already faired hull.
If you plan to paint the model, which in my not so humble opinion is far more realistic, the second reason does not apply. If planks are losing adhesion, goop becomes your friend. Bondo automotive body putty works well and will give you a hard fair surface to paint.
40 or so years ago we used to spend a summer week at Cape May, NJ. I once signed up for a trip on a head boat for Bluefish. We went out at about 10PM. I thought that it would be great if I caught a fish. Long story short, three hours later, I sat down exhausted with a burlap bag of fish. I had fortunately brought a pair of pliers from my tackle box that I probably could have sold for the price of the trip. Somehow I managed to keep the fillets cold until we made it back to Ohio and we ate Bluefish all winter. Good times!
Roger
Last edited:
White versus yellow glue
I did some digging and found a number of comments. The consensus is that white glues dry much softer than yellow glues and hence, are awful to sand. Over time this property can cause visual glue lines to appear with wood movement. The yellow glues are more brittle, but are very easy to sand. Strength is a non-issue because they are both much sronger than the wood itself.
Allan
I did some digging and found a number of comments. The consensus is that white glues dry much softer than yellow glues and hence, are awful to sand. Over time this property can cause visual glue lines to appear with wood movement. The yellow glues are more brittle, but are very easy to sand. Strength is a non-issue because they are both much sronger than the wood itself.
Allan