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Planking - New Method for me

KingDaddyo

KingDaddyo

Joined
Jun 7, 2025
Messages
105
Points
113

Location
New Castle, Indiana, USA
Well, after some reading and finishing the base layer of planking for my armed launch. I decided to do the second layer in shorter strips rather than longer ones. I read that most original ships were built from shorter pieces of wood anyway. I decided to use a three step planking method. I cut most of the strips in 70mm lengths with several in 35mm lengths and several in 17.5mm lengths. Then I started the planking with a full length strip, the next row I started with a 35mm strip and the next row a 17.5mm strip. Starting the fourth row I went back to the 70mm strip and so on. By doing this none of the joints from the base layer matched up to the second layer which should add structural stability to the hull as I finish. It was also much easier to plank the curved sections of the hull using shorter planks.

When I begin the final exterior layer of planking I will switch to a 90mm, 45 mm and 22.5mm lengths. Again, this will keep any joints from the second layer from lining up with the final layer. It will also make a nice planking pattern as I finish. (I hope!!)

As I finish the second layer I will post some photos of the planking and then some more as I get into the final layer of planking. The biggest differences are it takes much more time to cut the shorter strips and fit them cleanly against each other to keep any gaps from developing. But, it does make it easier than using full length strips. Maybe I figured out how I should have been doing it anyway or, I'm doing it all wrong. But, it is working well and the planking pattern looks much better than with the long strips.

I'm open to thoughts, advice, criticism and even a little laughter.............
 
Your wish is my command!! First, I used the Microlux contour sander I got from MicroMark for sanding. I don't think they sell it anymore, but if you can get one it's like a floating head shaver. Really works well for curves on hull! (I put a piece of lambs skin on the body of the sander. It was so slick it was hard to grip and use for a longer period. The lambs skin is soft and got a nice texture to it) Anyway, the port side had a few small gaps I had to deal with. My hands are shaking some these days so I'm learning how to deal with it. I used a light filler in some places but it is smooth as a baby's butt for the third layer to go on. I started the port side from the top of the hull and worked downward to see how it would work out. The only place I ran into trouble was midway down on the bow. Wasn't as clean as I would like it. Too many smaller pieces.

On the starboard side I started from the keel and worked upward. That's the side I had trouble with the gaps. Not sure if it was from my hands or just not taking my time. From the results I think when I do the third layer of planking I'm going to work from the top edge down. I think it looks better overall and makes a good looking pattern.

Not sure if this helps anyone but it is fun to try different things! Again, I'm open to suggestions or any help! Laughter will also be welcome as I make fun of myself all the time to thicken my skin for the inevitable laughter I get from my wife when I do things. After 49 years shes had a lot to laugh about!!! LOLOL

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Portside stern.jpg

Starboard bow.jpg

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Will the third planking follow the outline of the second or will it follow the full length of the keel and thus cover the deadwood aft? The reason I ask is because there is no rabbet in the photo where the stern post would meet against the deadwood.
Thanks Geno
Allan
 
Being an amateur at this, I’m researching the rabbet. Do you have to have the rabbet the full length of the keel or is it just at the bow? No matter what I do with planking I’m not going to cover the deadwood. The finished work b6 others and on the plans do not show the deadwood covered. You’re thoughts?
 
Looking at contemporary launches, armed launches, etc. I found the following that seems to have the rabbet follow a curve above the deadwood similar to yours. I don't think the planking would be short stubby pieces though, but if it is to be painted, it really would not be noticeable.

Allan

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But I'm short and stubby!!! I get your drift!! There will be no short and stubby planks on the final layer. I did get a steamer to help me with the bending. Should make it a little easier. The box and instructions show it as painted on the lower half. I will probably follow that guide. It should "hide" any problems that crop up due to my lack of experience and shaky hands! Another member built the same kit as I'm working on. I've asked him to post more photos to help guide me along. He posted three but I'd love to see more detail as his finished product was absolutely stunning. I've got a lot to learn about this hobby. Fortunately I also have the time and willingness to read and learn more as I build. I really appreciate your help and the prints you found.
 
I think that you should look at videos of real ship building. You could search at Youtube.
Here is a very long swedish video, if you look ca 30 minutes in you find planking.

I dont know what kind of ship you are buillding a model of but it seems that the planks are very short.
 
KingDaddyo said:
Your wish is my command!! First, I used the Microlux contour sander I got from MicroMark for sanding. I don't think they sell it anymore, but if you can get one it's like a floating head shaver. Really works well for curves on hull! (I put a piece of lambs skin on the body of the sander. It was so slick it was hard to grip and use for a longer period. The lambs skin is soft and got a nice texture to it) Anyway, the port side had a few small gaps I had to deal with. My hands are shaking some these days so I'm learning how to deal with it. I used a light filler in some places but it is smooth as a baby's butt for the third layer to go on. I started the port side from the top of the hull and worked downward to see how it would work out. The only place I ran into trouble was midway down on the bow. Wasn't as clean as I would like it. Too many smaller pieces.

On the starboard side I started from the keel and worked upward. That's the side I had trouble with the gaps. Not sure if it was from my hands or just not taking my time. From the results I think when I do the third layer of planking I'm going to work from the top edge down. I think it looks better overall and makes a good looking pattern.

Not sure if this helps anyone but it is fun to try different things! Again, I'm open to suggestions or any help! Laughter will also be welcome as I make fun of myself all the time to thicken my skin for the inevitable laughter I get from my wife when I do things. After 49 years shes had a lot to laugh about!!! LOLOL

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Click to expand...
That's a mini version of the Bosch sander, or Bosch is a larger version of that one.
 
ubjs said:
I think that you should look at videos of real ship building. You could search at Youtube.
Here is a very long swedish video, if you look ca 30 minutes in you find planking.

I dont know what kind of ship you are buillding a model of but it seems that the planks are very short.
Click to expand...
Interesting video. It seems that in all cases the bolts fastening hull planks and deck planks are counterbored below the surface and then wooden plugs are hammered in, then anything that stands proud of the deck is chiseled off. So in the end the bolt heads are invisible. This is why I don't model plank bolt holes on my models. That's my personal interpretation.
 
I have also recently taken to using shorter planks to simplify planking in areas where I am struggling. I usually cut them in half or third of the full length (so they join around the middle, where the hull is the “flattest” and I vary the joint position so it doesn’t line up with the planks above). For me the value is that I can deal with the stern and the bow separately. If I mess up a plank on one end, I don’t have to redo the other… I can also focus on tapering/ bending planks on one side at a time. I know it’s certainly not accurate, but it helps me make nicer looking hulls overall.
 
I'm going to redo the starboard side with planks that are 1/3 full length so I can deal with the curved sections better but have less joints. Should look a little better. I'm only painting the hull to just above the waterline. Glad I have lots of matching planks left over from other projects!! I''l post some more photos when I've replanked this side so you can see the difference.
 
Well, after watching more than a dozen videos on the stem rabbet, what it is, how to mark it off on a kit and how to cut it I've come to several conclusions.

1.) I know what a stem rabbet is now.
2.) I understand the purpose of a stem rabbet on a "real" boat.
3.) I think I can do a stem rabbet with some practice now.
4.) there's no good way to cut a stem rabbet once you've already laid a layer of planking.
5.) The current kit will be finished without a stem rabbet but the next kit will be my first to have one.

Chalk it up to an old dog learning a new trick but just a little late for the current project. With some fine detailing work I should be able to make the fit lines on the final layer of planking smooth and fit nicely to the keel with no problem.

Next ship I build will be interesting as I carve my first rabbet line. On a separate note. Some time ago when I was at a sale I found a set of miniature chisels that I thought would come in handy some day. Now I will have a use for them. Time to make sure they are sharpened up and ready for the next kit!

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For those new to planking, it doesn't matter how you space your planks and their butts (end to end) if you are going to fair and paint your hull smooth. If, however, you intend to have the plank seams and butt seams show on your model, you should be aware that there are rules that are followed concerning the placement of plank butts. Their purpose is to ensure a strong hull that is not prone to leak. To show improper plank length and butt spacing on a model is a serious error that is immediately noticeable to the knowledgeable eye.

Firstly, the length and maximum width of planks should be to scale. The planking on a 25' yawl boat should not be 10 scale inches wide! Planks must be gotten out of wide stock to accommodate their curved shapes. Trees only grow so wide. The length is also important. The builders will always seek to plank with the longest stock available to them because butts can weaken the structure and cause additional work. Trees being what they are, and the limitations attendant to getting them out of the forest and hauled to the boatyard, planking lumber longer than about 30 feet at most really doesn't exist, trees being what they are.

The diagram below illustrates various alternate rules or "schedules" for hanging plank. The bottom example also illustrates the rule for cutting in "nibs" on the edge of deck planks which intersect a curved margin plank or covering board at the edge of a deck. The general rule of thumb for butt placement on ships with large scantlings (frames) is "no less than two frames between butts in adjacent planks, and no less than three planks between butts on the same frame."

Butts may be fastened to frames where the frames are large and the plank fastenings will not weaken the frame unduly. On small craft with narrower frames, the butts should not occur on a frame in order to avoid placing plank end fasteners into the narrow frames and weakening them. In that case, a "butt block" is used. The butt block is a square of wood slightly wider than the plank which is placed inboard of the planking butt and overlapping the adjacent planks in equal measure above and below. Butt blocks should be beveled on their top edges and, preferably, not be placed so that they butt against a frame, so that they will not create a place for fresh water to collect and promote fungal decay. (Not an issue on a model, but, if the model is an open boat with the butt blocks visible, it is an important detail.)

Note that these diagrams are schematics to illusrate the placing of plank butts. In actual practice, there should be a minimum of two plank fastenings at each end of every plank and at every frame, preferably staggered such that the two fastenings are not directly in line vertically which would promote a crack in the vertical grain of the frame.

Care should be taken to space butts as far apart as possible. It is not good practice to have all the butts fall in the middle of the hull or at either or both ends. Neither is it the best practice to have the plank butt layout of one side mirror the other. Rather, where possible, the butt spacing should be different on each side of the hull to provide the strongest hull construction.

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Butt block installation showing both screw and rivet fasteners. The butt block is riveted in place with the rivets running through the butt block and the butted plank, (not through the adjacent planks,) and then the plank ends are fastened through the plank and into the butt block. Note the bevels on all four edges of the butt block to ensure water drainage.

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