Planks

[KevinwinderJ]

I, as many others, I'm sure, am having issues w/ attaching the planks on the hull ribs toward the front of hull. I have tested samples that I've soaked in water and bent w/ jig, then dried; seems like it has worked.... for now. Clamps I have seem ungainly and too small for my application. There will be issues aft, though; there are some odd twists and turns back there. I have a feeling I'll be cutting and splicing there (is that considered "cheating"? ) This is my 1st foray into this hobby, as I've just received my 1st kit this recent Christmas.
Thanks for help offers. --- Kevin, in Ankeny, Iowa

 

[Uwek]

First of all a warm welcome here on board of our forum.
Planking the hull is often the first challenge in ship building and some modelers are loosing the fun to work with wood.
First of all take the time and no rush in doing it - prepare the plank as good as possible before you force it into a form the plank do not want, atherwise she will break. Soaking in water is a good first method, soaking in warm or even hot water even better, and maybe you use a bending iron to heat the plank during the bending process. You will find several cheap tool solution here in the forum. The cheapiest for appr. 15 US$
Clamps you will need - enough clamps of different sizes and lengths - some are using also nails to fix the plank - there is a lot to say, but maybe first you can also check and study this pdf - it is explaining a lot and will make a lot things clear

 

[Corsair]

Welcome to the forums !
What ship are you building?

Jeff

 

[Hatteras]

I, as many others, I'm sure, am having issues w/ attaching the planks on the hull ribs toward the front of hull. I have tested samples that I've soaked in water and bent w/ jig, then dried; seems like it has worked.... for now. Clamps I have seem ungainly and too small for my application. There will be issues aft, though; there are some odd twists and turns back there. I have a feeling I'll be cutting and splicing there (is that considered "cheating"? ) This is my 1st foray into this hobby, as I've just received my 1st kit this recent Christmas.
Thanks for help offers. --- Kevin, in Ankeny, Iowa

Some planking pictures from another newbie. I hope it will help. There is no cheating, it is not a game. Sometimes mistakes are made and corrections have to be made. I am sure the same goes for full-size shipbuilding.

 

[gene438]

Kevin, I too am working on my first boat. (HMS Beagle)...first question I would have, Is your boat single or double plank. I deliberately chose a double plank project based on research done here. This allows you to be not so perfect on the first layer as it can be easily repaired with filler, etc. as it will be covered. Believe me, I have an ample supply of filler on my first layer....but it was a huge learning experience. The 2nd layer was much easier to put on because of my experience (and thinner planks) and came out rather nice. So, imo, at least on a double plank job, there is no such thing as cheating, especially on the first layer......fill and sand away.....

 

[Wolle]

Welcome to our forum and have fun

 

[shota70]

Welcome aboard great planking work

 

[Thrasher]

Welcome, and remember we all learn as we go. That is why the we all learn as we go. You can see how others approach the same problems that we all have. Then try, and select the ones that work for you.

 

[Herman]

A warm welcome Kevin.

To bend the planks I use an empty food can with a tealight to heat the can. First steam or just put the planks in hot water and then bend them round the food can.

Good luck on your planking

 

[ejk]

Some planking pictures from another newbie. I hope it will help. There is no cheating, it is not a game. Sometimes mistakes are made and corrections have to be made. I am sure the same goes for full-size shipbuilding.

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Where can one find those very nice, green-topped pins for planking? I have been using alligator clamps, small plastic clamps, and T-pins. The green-topped pins look like they can be inserted using only a hand force rather than trying to pound them in.

I also notice that the pins are being used in the second planking. I do not like to leave holes because I really do not know how I would fill or cover them, so I use shoemaker's glue (contact cement) for most of my second planking.

Any replies to my pin inquiry will be most appreciated. TIA

 

[mapoo]

Some planking pictures from another newbie. I hope it will help. There is no cheating, it is not a game. Sometimes mistakes are made and corrections have to be made. I am sure the same goes for full-size shipbuilding.

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Hi Hatteras,
you are using pins also for the second layer of planking. I was always afraid of it...don't you see the holes of the pins after removing them? Or what is your secret to make them disappear.

cheers

 

[danielsje]

In my experience I try to shape a plank to remove as much stress as possible on the plank when applying it. This is especially important on sharp bow curves. My goal is to be able to lay a plank in a curve so it lays easily without stress on the plank to lift away from the curve. I use a mechanical plank bender to accomplish this. A mechanical plank bender is a tool that pinches the back side of the plank affecting a bend. Then I can use drops of CA gel on the bulkheads, drop the plank in place, and it stays in place without pins, nails, or clamps. With CA gel all I need to do is place and finger hold for 10 seconds. For me, pre shaping the plank curve is a must…

 

[Corsair]

In my experience I try to shape a plank to remove as much stress as possible on the plank when applying it. This is especially important on sharp bow curves. My goal is to be able to lay a plank in a curve so it lays easily without stress on the plank to lift away from the curve. I use a mechanical plank bender to accomplish this. A mechanical plank bender is a tool that punches the back side of the plank affecting a bend. Then I can use drops of CA gel on the bulkheads, drop the plank in place, and it stays in place without pins, nails, or clamps. With CA gel all I need to do is place and finger hold for 10 seconds. For me, pre shaping the plank curve is a must…

I agree with you. Pre-shaping the curve helps tons! Regardless of if you use a mechanical plank bender, steam, heat or a combination.

Jeff

 

[Hatteras]

Hi Hatteras,
you are using pins also for the second layer of planking. I was always afraid of it...don't you see the holes of the pins after removing them? Or what is your secret to make them disappear.

cheers

There is no secret, Mapoo. Only the narrow green pins are stuck through the wood strips, the thicker black and white ones are put just in the first layer of planking. However I do not leave them there longer than necessary, and remove them after an hour or so - that is before the PVA has fully hardened. After sanding there are no traces whatsoever. I can imagine it depends on the kind of wood whether this works or not. This is sapelli.

 

[Hatteras]

Where can one find those very nice, green-topped pins for planking? I have been using alligator clamps, small plastic clamps, and T-pins. The green-topped pins look like they can be inserted using only a hand force rather than trying to pound them in.

I also notice that the pins are being used in the second planking. I do not like to leave holes because I really do not know how I would fill or cover them, so I use shoemaker's glue (contact cement) for most of my second planking.

Any replies to my pin inquiry will be most appreciated. TIA

Those needles are made by the German company Krick. They come in different colours. Indeed they can be inserted with minimal force. In The Netherlands, where I live, they are quite common among modelers. I do not know about the availablity in the US.
As far as the matter of the holes is concerned, I have commented on this in my reply to Mapoo (former post).

 

[bill36]

I, as many others, I'm sure, am having issues w/ attaching the planks on the hull ribs toward the front of hull. I have tested samples that I've soaked in water and bent w/ jig, then dried; seems like it has worked.... for now. Clamps I have seem ungainly and too small for my application. There will be issues aft, though; there are some odd twists and turns back there. I have a feeling I'll be cutting and splicing there (is that considered "cheating"? ) This is my 1st foray into this hobby, as I've just received my 1st kit this recent Christmas.
Thanks for help offers. --- Kevin, in Ankeny, Iowa

Planking is a world unto itself. Your question cannot be answered in a sentence or two.
There are books written on the subject. Start your research on the NRJ website bookstore. Try every advertiser in the NRJ magazine. Follow-up on any suggestions given on this website. I would buy 2 or 3 books on the subject and STUDY them; no-one has all the answers. You probably will not master the art of planking on your first model. Think of planking as another form of sculpture. Good luck.

 

[Buffalo Jack]

Those needles are made by the German company Krick. They come in different colours. Indeed they can be inserted with minimal force. In The Netherlands, where I live, they are quite common among modelers. I do not know about the availablity in the US.
As far as the matter of the holes is concerned, I have commented on this in my reply to Mapoo (former post).

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Where can I buy these pins

 

[Hatteras]

Where can I buy these pins

Krick Modelltechnik: Store Locator

www.krick-modell.de