Pocher 1:4 Ducati Panigale S ‘Anniversario’ + ‘Final Edition

[Peter Voogt]

Last month I posted in the thread “Other hobbies that are not ship model building” this post:

Last week I got this packet: …..
On this Dutch forum I will make a build-log:

Pocher 1:4 Ducati Superbike 1299 Panigale S Anniversario

Vorige week werd na dik een jaar wachten, eindelijk een pakketje bezorgd. De lang verwachtte Pocher 1:4 Ducati Superbike 1299 Panigale S Anniversario. Dan hebben we het over deze doos: Beetje bewogen, maar ik wilde graag binnen in kijken. Dat wordt dit zichtbaar: Het model krijg deze...

www.modelbouwforum.nl

With some nice reactions.

Last week I saw the coming build-log from Ted for the Jaguar C-type engine 1/8 scale in the thread “Super detailing static models”. For other models than ship-models.
Because the Pocher kit is already very detailed, I am super-detailing it with the items of the Hardware-Kit of Paul Koo and with some personal items.
So I decided to make here a build-log for the building of the Pocher 1:4 Ducati Superbike 1299 Panigale S Anniversario with the Hardware Kit of Paul Koo.

To make it complete, I will start by the beginning.
First some posts to bring you to the current state of building.

When the postman rings:
A little unsharp, but I wanted to look inside:

This will be seen:

The model gets these dimensions:


To show you what we're talking about, the 1st model of the Panigale of Pocher was this one, which I built in 2016:



In the box there are a lot of metal parts:


Of course there are plastic parts, but on the original they are also plastic parts.
The model weighs 5.5 kg for a reason!

What also emerged from the 1st model was that Pocher used mainly black Philips crosshead screws and bolts. Whereas on the original they are mostly hexagonal heads and inbus bolts.
From the American Paul Koo I bought his Hardware Set + Tool kit.
So Paul Koo delivers a whole set:

With these kind of right bolts:

So small:


I will occasionally make some post with some notes and pictures of the construction.
But that goes between the companies of the construction of my Robert E. Lee.
Regards, Peter

 

[Peter Voogt]

First a piece of intro, partly for those who are not familiair with Pocher.
There is a very detailed manual with 35 pages.
The construction is divided into 30 chapters.
A photo of chapter 1 and how to put the part together when and how.

Because some parts have to be mounted from the inside of another part, I first collect all the parts and screws.


Before I merge the parts, I first file away the small cast edges that Pocher has not removed. The finish is very very good, but it could be better! Then everything fits together even more neatly.


However, the holes in the metal parts are not wired. Pocher mentions that the supplied bolts are self-tapping. But when I built my 1st Ducati (and a long time back also an MB from Pocher) there are still a lot of things to break of.
So I'm tapping the holes now.

With the kit, Pocher has supplied 26 different bolts, in terms of diameter/length/shape.
But they are almost all black and feature the Philips crosshead.
In the Hardware Set mentioned in the intro, Paul Koo also supplied 26 different bolts and wire ends. Only in terms of colour in the as many original metal alloy as possible and with different heads: inbus, torx, 6-side etc.
And in the set there are thread taps. I now have a set of 1.7/2.0/2.3 and 2.5 mm.


Construction can really begin now.
First a cylinder with 2 bolts from the Hardware Set (left) and 2 from the Pocher KIT (right)

Those last two are going out again.

The reclining and the standing cylinder on a piece of the sump:


Some parts for the left:


And that merged again:


Regards, Peter

 

[Peter Voogt]

Chapter 2 and 3:



Again first all parts collected, some painted into the right color.

Eventually all these parts with 35 bolts secured.
As the right side now looks with part of the oil filter and on the inside of the two cylinder heads the intakes on which the fuel injection system will soon be installed:

And the left side:

The dynamo is also in place, with its decal, applied to thickened alu-foil from the Hardware-kit :


I mentioned that I had bought the Hardware Set from Paul Koo.
Here is a print-screen of 1 of the pages as Paul has documented the application of the extras. His manual consists of 71 pages with on an additional DVD a lot of extra info and pictures of the original.


Pocher itself is a kit that can be put together properly and neatly in accordance with the manual. But with Paul's additions, you'll have a lot more happy building time. That's really fine-tuning.
Regards, Peter

 

[Peter Voogt]

Before the next chapter, first 2 details that Paul Koo has figure out.
Although Pocher has processed a lot of details, 2 very striking tubes/cables have not been made on the block.

The 1st is the start/ignition cable on the left side of the block.
Small rubber cube cutting, hole of 1 mm and a cable insert:
From Paul Koo's manual:

The opening in the block on the left:

With the plug and cable fitted:


The 2nd is a banjo plug for the oil tube with the oil pressure switch.
From Paul Koo's manual:

For that, Paul put some extra parts in his kit. With some self-made parts:

-a small metal bead
-flatten on two sides
-pierce hole up to 2mm
-2mm hex-bolt through it
-1mm transverse drills
-bend piece of copper wire and glue/solder into the 1mm hole. I glue it with CA
pipe
-a cable socket making of 2 pieces of alu-foil

2mm hole where the tube should go and secure the hex bolt.

Confirmed in the block:

The pipe now points to the right, but thus comes diagonally to the top left.
Regards, Peter

 

[stuglo]

Sooooooooooooooooooooo. Coooooooooooooooooool !!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Peter Voogt]

Sooooooooooooooooooooo. Coooooooooooooooooool !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the first/quick reply!
Regards, Peter

 

[Peter Voogt]

Chapter 4:
From now on I only show the drawing of the chapter on which all the individual parts can be seen.
With the composite parts.

In this chapter some parts for the canister filter and the ABS unit on the right side of the block:

Composed:

Fixed on the block:

With the extra details that have been applied, visible. As:
-extra banjo plug for the cooling system, towards radiator
-fuel filter venting
-ABS switch to engine management
At a later stage, the tubes are installed to the current empty connections.

And I give the cilinderheads there black gasket.

Now you are even with the building.
New posts will not come as quick as above
Regards, Peter

 

[Peter Voogt]

PS:
For the super-super-detailing of your Pocher Duc, you can go more crazy with this kit:
https://shop.autographmodel.com/Aut...er-1-4-model-kit-HK107-Ducati-1299-Panigale-S
More then 2 times the price of the Pocher-kit. And also here: the most you can't see anymore. Unless you don't attach most of the covers.
Regards, Peter

 

[Peter Voogt]

Chapter 5:

Waterpump:
In 2 stages:
The base:

With the extras: the hose clamps and the wiring:

With the nice inbus-bolds of Paul Koo

Starter relay:
In the Pocher manual, there are only 3 cables:
RF-01, from the starter to the start relay
RF-03, from the RPM sensor to the relay
RF-04, the battery +connector to the relay
Paul Koo gives a few more options. But it is the question if you see them later?
But these are made:
-radiator fan
-exhaust valve
-starter relay
Kick stand switch


Battery:
For the battery only the +connector is drawn in, glued to the back of the battery.
So, the + and the – made.


Everything attached to the left side of the engine:

Some cables fixed:
-starter
-accu +
-RPM-sensor.

The cable harness on the top is later connected to the main cable tree.
Also on the bottom the cables for the exhaust-valve.
The accu-decal speaks for itself.

All and all, this costs me the whole afternoon. But: great fun.
Regards, Peter

 

[Peter Voogt]

Because the Skylight walls and window frames from the Robert E. Lee are drying from their layer of base paint, took a moment to make the block almost complete.

Chapter 6+8:

Throttle body
The parts merged:

Here also the necessary extra hose clamps.
I'm surprised how small they can make these bolts, both Torx and Allen.

Before this part is mounted on the engine block, Paul Koo's advice was to first mount the air valve and the associated hoses. They don't really come until chapter 23, but then you can do it very badly:



Chapter 7 is briefly skipped to mount the fuel house on the block:

Applied to the block with the connecting hoses to the cylinder heads.
The left of the now almost complete block:

And the right side:

With quite a few hoses and cables that are going to be connected later.
Regards, Peter

 

[tedboat]

Now that is an engine and a half. Fantastic detail.
And you're really building it with great skill.
Something that fascinates me is how the technology has advanced in the 70 years since the Jaguar c-type engine was produced. This engine looks complicated, while the c-type looks very 'bare' in comparison.
I shall enjoy the rest of this build!

Ted

 

[Peter Voogt]

Now that is an engine and a half. Fantastic detail.
And you're really building it with great skill.
Something that fascinates me is how the technology has advanced in the 70 years since the Jaguar c-type engine was produced. This engine looks complicated, while the c-type looks very 'bare' in comparison.
I shall enjoy the rest of this build!
Ted

Hello Ted,
Very nice that you like this build. I follow your build of the Jaguar. I know the quality of Autograph, and the Jaguar kit looks great. Different ages, different techniques. But both worked with pistons, gas, nuts, bolds, tubes etc.
Regards Peter

 

[Peter Voogt]

There's been some tinkering with the Duc.

Throttle body’s:
Although the throttle body, once in the model assembled, will be completely hidden under the tank, the fuel injectors, motors and sensors have been given their wiring:


Chapter 7:

Exhaust system:
The different main components: the exhaust pipe and the two mufflers:

Paul Koo had some extras:
-On the exhaust pipe for both the vertical and horizontal cylinder an lambda-sensor made.
-There are also 3 exhaust pipe springs fitted. Because the exhaust pipe has 3 parts. Otherwise, it can't be placed with the original Duc.
-exhaust valve.

Paul Koo's manual shows you how to make it. The steps from top left to right below. Thanks to the invention of the toothpick:

I made the brackets out of brass wire. After applying, they melt with the soldering iron in the tube to create the image of a weld.
The feathers of thin digital signal wire for model trains, 0.08 qmm. Here they are drying after the layer of metal paint:

I made six, because the first one didn't go straight to my see. Then just a few more.
The horizontal cylinder has 2. In detail:

 

[Peter Voogt]

Unlike the first model in 2016, which had black mufflers with chrome covers, they are applied to this one of titanium with carbon: Akrapovic's.

I closed the screw holes in the exhaust pipes. They just don't quite have the right color. The pair you see now will soon be covered.
Paul Koo recommends that all holes and cracks be closed and then sanded, plastered and sprayed in its entirety. But that went too far for me now.

Chapter 8:

The exhaust system attached to the block. The engine is now complete.
Seen from the 4 angles:





And the 2 sides:



Regards, Peter

 

[tedboat]

Unlike the first model in 2016, which had black mufflers with chrome covers, they are applied to this one of titanium with carbon: Akrapovic's.

I closed the screw holes in the exhaust pipes. The just don't quite have the right color. The pair you see now will soon be covered.
Paul Koo recommends that all holes and cracks be closed and then sanded, plastered and sprayed in its entirety. But that went too far for me now.

The exhaust system attached to the block. The engine is now complete.
Seen from the 4 angles:
View attachment 186005
View attachment 186006
View attachment 186007
View attachment 186008

And the 2 sides:
View attachment 186009
View attachment 186010

Regards, Peter

Very impressive! If I was into bikes I would want one!
How long is the engine?
Ted

 

[Peter Voogt]

Very impressive! If I was into bikes I would want one!
How long is the engine?
Ted

Ted,
2 pictures with 'reference' to show how big the engine is:

The weight is now 1168gr.
Regards, Peter

 

[tedboat]

Now that's a decent size! Love the detail on it.
Many rthanks

Ted

 

[Larsa]

Have you replaced the scruws(insex)?my dont look this,perhapes i have another version?older?

 

[Peter Voogt]

In the kit are mostly black cross-head Philip screws. Therefor I have bought the Hardware-Kit from Paul Koo. See the beginning of the log.
Regards, Peter

 

[Larsa]

In the kit are mostly black cross-head Philip screws. Therefor I have bought the Hardware-Kit from Paul Koo. See the beginning of the log.
Regards, Peter

OK