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Polaris by Occre Build Log

Nice work! Your garboard currently extends much too far forward, it will throw off the run of the planking. I would recommend ending it maybe around the fore edge of the fore bulkhead.
 
What @JacquesCousteau said.

Now Occre is a bit weird in that they have you plank the whole thing and then add the keel after. Typically there would be a keel with a rabbet that you plank into. In any case, when looking directly on from the side. try to line the garboard up to be a straight line from stern to bow and not curve upward.
 
mberg said:
What @JacquesCousteau said.

Now Occre is a bit weird in that they have you plank the whole thing and then add the keel after. Typically there would be a keel with a rabbet that you plank into. In any case, when looking directly on from the side. try to line the garboard up to be a straight line from stern to bow and not curve upward.
Click to expand...
Cool. Thanks
 
mberg said:
What @JacquesCousteau said.

Now Occre is a bit weird in that they have you plank the whole thing and then add the keel after. Typically there would be a keel with a rabbet that you plank into. In any case, when looking directly on from the side. try to line the garboard up to be a straight line from stern to bow and not curve upward.
Click to expand...
JacquesCousteau, I am also building an Occre kit which tells one to finish both layers of planking and then add the keel like you say. Before starting this, I did the NRG Half Hull Planking Project kit to get some experience of spiling and fitting planks. In that one learned to cut a rabbet first and plank into that as you mention. Would that work with a double planked hull? I'm trying to visualise. Can you fit both layers of planking into one (larger?) rabbet... would you need two separate rabbets, close together, one for each layer? Or would you do the first layer of planking which sort of compensated for the lack of frames, then fit the keel with a rabbet, and then plank the second layer into the rabbet?? Or better to simply follow the instructions ( which I'm already tending to veer away from!).
 
embojo said:
JacquesCousteau, I am also building an Occre kit which tells one to finish both layers of planking and then add the keel like you say. Before starting this, I did the NRG Half Hull Planking Project kit to get some experience of spiling and fitting planks. In that one learned to cut a rabbet first and plank into that as you mention. Would that work with a double planked hull? I'm trying to visualise. Can you fit both layers of planking into one (larger?) rabbet... would you need two separate rabbets, close together, one for each layer? Or would you do the first layer of planking which sort of compensated for the lack of frames, then fit the keel with a rabbet, and then plank the second layer into the rabbet?? Or better to simply follow the instructions ( which I'm already tending to veer away from!).
Click to expand...
I personally find having a keel/rabbet in place really useful for clamping and getting the planks properly lined up, although I haven't built anything done the other way. Of your options, I'm not sure if a double-wide rabbet will work, because I feel like the planks will just extend to the front edge. Maybe you could clamp them to leave space? Alternately, you could leave off the rabbet for the first layer, cutting it so that it will only apply to the second layer. Doing just a single layer of planking would be simplest, if trickier to get a fair hull.
 
That looks pretty good to me. Just remember, this is the first layer of planking. It doesn't need to be pretty, it just needs to create a nice surface to lay your second layer. It has the added benefit of being treated as a test run. You can plank it as though it was you main layer and if you mess up, not a big deal. Adjust as I go by either sanding or adding filler as you say.
 
OK, Who has used the planking calculator? I took 1/8 pin stripe tape and laid it down each rib, pulled it off, stuck it on a sheet of paper and measured it. I then measured center to venter of ribs and edge to center of bow and stern. I put together a quick spreadsheet and entered all the values. By the planking instructions and as a comment from someone else I decided to split the strake runs in half. I took each measurement and divided it in half and then subtracted 1/2 a strake width to split the model in half with a full size strake down the center line. (RIB LENGTH / 2) - 2.5 (1/2 STRAKE WIDTH - 5mm). Then I entered the values in the planking calculator. Look correct? Or am I way off?

POLARIS_HULL_PLANKING_CALCULATOR_1.5-MINUS-2.5.png

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Well, my planking just doesn't look right. Question for anyone willing. Picture A or B. Which is the correct way to measure to figure out strake tapering? I did "A", but the bow was going to be filled WAY before the stern. All other ribs were measured via the curvature of each from sheer to garboard.

And, a really stupid question.....Does the tapered side of the new strake go against the flat side of the previous strake or or is it flat side of new strake against the tapered side of the previous strake? In other words, planking bulwarks down, sheer strake being a full non tapered strake, would the next and subsequent strakes go on tapered side up or down? I'll go sit in the corner with my dunce cap on a wait for an answer. :(;)

STER_PLANK_CALCULATION_QUESTION - Copy.jpg

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Welp, after contemplating things I realized my problem. JacquesCousteau let me know I was measuring the stern incorrectly, TY, and then I realized I was entering sizes in the planking calculator incorrectly. It was reversed bow to stern so I was putting the strakes on backwards according to the calculations. After correcting that, and adding a little tweek, I think I have it now.
 
About half the hull planked. Looks pretty good, I guess, not an expert by any means. Only other ship I ever built I didn't taper any of the strakes so it was completely stepped strake to strake. Took forever to sand flat. This one Looks relatively even Port to starboard. A bit stepped at the stern, but not too bad, should sand out relatively easy. Trying to decide how to taper the next strake. It's exactly 5mm, plank width, from the last strake to where the transome takes the sharp bend. Think I'll follow the last taper from now back, but lessen the taper starting about the ribs from the stern so the strake end full size at the transome, then remeasure and start a new lane of strakes.

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Got the second lane done. Looks like it lined up pretty well. Measured the remaining ribs for lane three, hopefully the last lane, and am printing the sanding jig now. Kinda worried about this turn. I think I need not only to taper the strake, but also taper the leading edge of the strake to fit up against the previous strake. Or, should I now start from the keel and work up? Or, should I work back and forth in case I need a drop plank? Anyone? What would be the best way to proceed?

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