I am buildng the Jotika model HM Brig Badger. I am up to inserting deadeye strops ( around deadeyes) into the channels and I am having some difficulty. The direction manual and instruction sheets are a bit unclear. The strops appear to be too wide to fit into the channels. So I either have to squeeze the delicate brass strops to fit or to sand out the the channel locating slots to accomodate the wider strops. Any suggestions on how to proceed would be greatly appreciated. Thanks much.
Im pretty sure squeezing the strops is what they want you to do, to increase tension so the deadeye does not slide out at any time.
some photos can be found here
This is what the manual is telling us, I would adjust and widden slightly the notch, so that you are not destroying the channel with too much pressure
JoTiKa Ltd. ~ HM Brig Badger Construction Page 1.
JoTiKa Ltd. manufacturer and distributor of classic scale model kits from Caldercraft, Mini Fleet, Nelsons Navy, Heritage series - including The Mary Rose - Krick, HFM Marine and many more.
www.jotika-ltd.com
This is what the manual is telling us, I would adjust and widden slightly the notch, so that you are not destroying the channel with too much pressure
With Jotika /Caldercraft kits, you hook the lower plate over the strop, put the dead eye in the upper part then squeeze the strop together and put in channel slot. When you release it the strop locks into place in the channel There is a little tab that locks the strop in place and places sufficient pressure on the dead eye to hold it and allows you to rotate the dead-eye clockwise / anticlockwise to its correct alignment.
Fit the strops into the channels off hull and then fit the channels using metal pinning, it's much easier. See sheet 3 of your plans. Its fiddly but works really well.
All their kits are done this way.
Fit the strops into the channels off hull and then fit the channels using metal pinning, it's much easier. See sheet 3 of your plans. Its fiddly but works really well.
All their kits are done this way.
You mean inserting the stop into the space for it right? As in its a tight fit? Have you already glued on the wood cover strip, most kits I've seen have a strip that
completes the inner boxes for the strops? If you did that would make it extremely difficult to continue. If not rub some pencil lead or artist graphite on the
strops where they enter the channel, graphite is a dry lubricant and may make insertion easier.
Thanks again. No, I haven't put on the wooden strips yet. The problem I am having is with the two nubs that protrude from the edge of the strops. They constantly get stuck and bent going into the locating slot. Should they be bent up/down so that they don't protrude before being inserted into the slot?
Dorry, I am unfamiliar with the kit details, I can only help from a general perspective.
Maybe best would be to make one or two photos of the parts so we are able to recognize the problem. Often it is good to see the problem....
Kind of looks to me as those are "feet" to keep it from moving up or down and are meant to rest on the surface of the channel. I could be wrong, and my wife usually tells me so, but thats the jist I get from the photo.
Dear Clair
Thanks much for your reply to my question. While there were no directions on how to put the deadeyes in, and the diagram sheet showed the nubs both going into the channel rather than one nub going on top and one on the bottom, I tried that and it works very well. Thanks again much for your help. Andy
Thanks much for your reply to my question. While there were no directions on how to put the deadeyes in, and the diagram sheet showed the nubs both going into the channel rather than one nub going on top and one on the bottom, I tried that and it works very well. Thanks again much for your help. Andy
I have not seen that style before. Clair could very well be right that they are "feet". If that's the case the deadeye does not look very secure. Myself I would, at the minimum, lash beneath the deadeye to better hold it in place. This would also hide that large unsightly gap beneath the deadeye. May look better if you did the same at the bottom too. Give it a try off ship and see how it looks.
Just a thought, have a good one!
Just a thought, have a good one!
I agree with Don, if they are in fact feet they would probably allow a good bit of flex possibly lossening them as you tighten stays up.
Maybe you are supposed to solder the feet, then remove excess material. That way, the solder blob stays around the feet and does not travel up toward the eye and make an unsightly mess.
Not being involved with this build or problem at hand but having seen similar laser cut stropping.. . wouldn't soldering, if the deadeye is in place. damage the wood or are you suggesting to solder and then insert the deadeye which was the initial question that in reading the suggestions seemed to provide a solution to the insertion? PT-2 Always looking/scanning for things to learn whether needed now or not.
I am not clear about the soldering suggestion as to when that is done in the sequence of deadeye insertion??? PT-2
@PT-2 I dont think soldering would really bother the wood any, especially if you use some clamps or forceps to absorb the heat just past the join you are making. I just wish the kits manufacturer would have been more clear on their intentions for the strops to begin with, then our OP wouldn't be guessing what to do. I dont mind people asking questions at all, but kit manufacturers seem to expect everyone to know what they were thinking designing a kit. What the hobby needs is more clarity in the steps of construction for those who dont know everything 
( no target in mind, just a general observation )
( no target in mind, just a general observation )