Preferred way to cut out windows when using styrene

[TJCampbell]

Figured I'd throw this out to everyone.

I build modern steel ships - the big ships that ply the Great Lakes.

As I look to improve my skills I like to pick the brains of others for those familiar with these types of builds, and of course others who build other things have great ideas as well.

I always build the various decks be they all aft, or the older style fore and aft type design of ship, and then stack them accordingly. After finding the micro LED's that are available for lighting, this gives me an addition option for my builds.

I strive for authenticity and of course perfection, but I get frustrated when it comes to windows. I like to cut mine out, and then I'll usually find some type of clear plastic to glue inside so they look like real windows, and you can see the "glare" depending on the lighting available where the model is displayed. I've been using a #11 exacto blade, but I find it quite difficult to cut out such small windows and have them be perfectly shaped to the particular ship I am doing...... of course most of the windows on the new ships are square or rectangular, and where the nav deck is, they are separated by small frames/posts the on a model are only a couple millimetres wide. Using .020" styrene becomes very hard to cut them out and keep the posts intact or warp free.

I see some of the models in museums or that the master model builders do, and I don't if maybe I need to use thicker styrene for these areas, or a different blade?

I have attached a couple pics of model of similar ship models, and it amazes me how clean and crisp everything is.

 

[Corsair]

a couple of things you might try. How about a knife that is heated? yes, it will roll up an edge, but it can easily be removed.
For the clear parts, modelers use a liquid product called Kristal Klear. You just take the applicator in the cap and run it around the frame and it will leave a film like a bubble soap, but it will get hard.

 

[Smithy]

a different blade

You might try a scalpel. The Swann Morton No11 has a good acute point for this sort of thing. Drill a hole in the middle of your rectangular window space and then carve into the corners with the scalpel.

You will find that the scalpel is not as robust as an X-Acto but that's ok. It's a lot sharper and you will be taking off the thinnest possible shavings so as not to distort those posts.

I haven't used a craft knife for the twenty years since I discovered scalpels (and a little delicacy and patience). Buy the non-sterile ones for cheapness and if you like them buy in bulk. I have five handles with 10, 10A, 11, 15 and the big 23 which cover all of my modelling needs in wood and plastic.

Number 11 is in the pale blue handle.



Bonus Tip of the Week: Never try to catch a falling scalpel.

 

[tossedman]

If you want to go a bit higher tech without breaking the bank, take a look at the Silhouette Cameo. It will cut or score styrene. Don't know the maximum thickness that it will cut though. You'll also have to be computer literate enough to generate dxf files for it to cut. Lots of stuff on the net about it. Just Google "Silhouette Cameo styrene". If you're lucky you wife already has one.

 

[Rob444]

If the windows are big enough, you should outline the area you want to cut, Drill small holes just inside the 4 corners of the window and with a new blade connect the holes. This reduces the stress in the thin plastic and helps prevent distortion.

 

[TJCampbell]

If you want to go a bit higher tech without breaking the bank, take a look at the Silhouette Cameo. It will cut or score styrene. Don't know the maximum thickness that it will cut though. You'll also have to be computer literate enough to generate dxf files for it to cut. Lots of stuff on the net about it. Just Google "Silhouette Cameo styrene". If you're lucky you wife already has one.

Well...... she does want a Cricut......

 

[tossedman]

Might be time to encourage her hobbies as well. Just buy an extra blade or two. Something tells me cutting styrene dulls blades.

 

[Mariner1941]

Figured I'd throw this out to everyone.

I build modern steel ships - the big ships that ply the Great Lakes.

As I look to improve my skills I like to pick the brains of others for those familiar with these types of builds, and of course others who build other things have great ideas as well.

I always build the various decks be they all aft, or the older style fore and aft type design of ship, and then stack them accordingly. After finding the micro LED's that are available for lighting, this gives me an addition option for my builds.

I strive for authenticity and of course perfection, but I get frustrated when it comes to windows. I like to cut mine out, and then I'll usually find some type of clear plastic to glue inside so they look like real windows, and you can see the "glare" depending on the lighting available where the model is displayed. I've been using a #11 exacto blade, but I find it quite difficult to cut out such small windows and have them be perfectly shaped to the particular ship I am doing...... of course most of the windows on the new ships are square or rectangular, and where the nav deck is, they are separated by small frames/posts the on a model are only a couple millimetres wide. Using .020" styrene becomes very hard to cut them out and keep the posts intact or warp free.

I see some of the models in museums or that the master model builders do, and I don't if maybe I need to use thicker styrene for these areas, or a different blade?

I have attached a couple pics of model of similar ship models, and it amazes me how clean and crisp everything is.

View attachment 514104

View attachment 514105

Very nice work. Glad to see Great Lakes boats. I also model Lakes vessels, mostly for display. I generally build the old wooden ones.
Build a lot of tugs also. Starting to build the old Sulphite for a friend.

 

[TJCampbell]

Very nice work. Glad to see Great Lakes boats. I also model Lakes vessels, mostly for display. I generally build the old wooden ones.
Build a lot of tugs also. Starting to build the old Sulphite for a friend.

The Great Lakes subject seems to be very a very, very niche interest, so getting started was rather frustrating, especially when it came to sourcing plans, but I know have a growing collection of blueprints and sources for prints as well.

I am always trying to learn new ways of doing things on my journey. Now it's pondering to do solid decks with sytrene cladding with the windows cut out, or use thicker styrene - keep them hollow and cut out the windows.