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printing 3D parts from market place sites

Joined
Feb 14, 2021
Messages
120
Points
113

Location
Windsor, ON
I have been browsing around for a few different items I will eventually need and I see some parts on sites like cults or cgtrader that are modeled but "not ready for 3d printing".

What is the process, or is it possible to make these parts "ready"?

I know a couple locally who can print but not sure if that will be the case with a file(s) that are noted as above.

What does this really mean?
 
I think what is being referred to is the process known as slicing. After a 3D rendering is produced in a CAD program it is exported as a 3-D image file which can be used in a 3D printer. The file format is usually usable across any on the many brands and types of 3D printers, resin and filament, but is has to be first sent to software know as "slicer" software to covert the raw image file to a form readable to a specific printer. This is why it the file description says "not ready for 3d printing". Also the slicer software can manipulate the image file for the printer to change many aspects of the print for example size, spatial orientation, number of copies to be printed, and the location and type of support structures that as used to mechanically stabiliize the printed object while it is being printed so it doesn't fail over while printing. This is similar to the process that occurs in the "printer dialogue" box with regular 2D printers when one prints a document.

Having said that anyone who regular 3D prints should have not have any problems working with standard 3D printing files that are said to be "not ready for 3d printing".
 
It almost certainly just means the objects do not have the printing supports already in place and, as jjs1950 says, that should not be an issue for anyone willing to print for you. Personally, I would actually prefer it this way, as I would be loathe to trust the support placement decisions of someone I don't know, when if they are bad it might trash my expensive screen! Besides which, it is better to re-scale first, then add supports at the point of printing.

One thing to check for, when potentially buying soft models, is that the object is 'manifold'. To quote google "In 3D printing, "non-manifold" means a digital 3D model has impossible geometry that cannot exist as a real, solid physical object. Slicing software cannot figure out what is inside or outside, which causes printing errors or failed prints." You won't be able to tell by looking so ask the seller in advance. Most slicer programmes can fix this issue so it's not necessarily a deal breaker.
 
I have been browsing around for a few different items I will eventually need and I see some parts on sites like cults or cgtrader that are modeled but "not ready for 3d printing".

What is the process, or is it possible to make these parts "ready"?

I know a couple locally who can print but not sure if that will be the case with a file(s) that are noted as above.

What does this really mean?
If the file format is STL, 3MF, or OBJ, it can be opened in a slicer and prepared for 3D printing. Pre-sliced models sound wonderful, provided all your printers and filaments match those used to prepare the pre-sliced model.

For resin printing, you may see the term pre-supported, which merely means the supports are in place. The quality of the support placement can vary. Depending on printer and resin the supports may be anywhere from superb to not so great. You may need to add or move supports. Note that pre-supported models are not in a different format, the files you use with Lichee or Chitubox slicers for resin printers are again the usual STL, OBJ, and 3MF file formats. A model may be both pre supported and printer ready, avoiding the need to use a slicer, although reading the fine print may be a good idea, as what prints well on a recent higher end resin printer using ABS like high speed 8K+ resin may fail completely on a five year old printer using generic basic resin.

In some cases the formats of the available files are for use with some form of 3D modeling, VR, or 3D CAD program, which many slicers do not handle at all. STEP is a common format for making 3D models available in the CAD world. Commonly used 3D CAD programs would include Solidworks, Alibre, Fusion360, and perhaps FreeCad. FBX, and ".blend" file extensions are typical for the Blender 3D modeling application. zBrush amd Maya have their own file extensions. Most people looking to share or sell files tend to make the files available in either a variety of formats or at least in a format used by more than one package.

CGTrader particularly has many models for use in CAD, modeling, and architectural applications that can't be fed into a slicer and in many cases are not designed for 3D printing as there is no expectation of using them for anything other than display or to supplement or incorporate into a virtual model. These models may be anywhere from simple to insane to get into a form that can be 3D printed. What is needed may range from just a bit of slicer magic to using several different packages to dissect the model into components that can perhaps then be printed.

There are ways to import most 3D file formats into something like blender, then export the file as an STL. This requires a few free add ons, and the generated model may not be manifold (AKA watertight). Manifold is a fancy way of saying if the slicer can't figure out whats "inside" and what's "outside" it has a hard time knowing what to do. Insert favorite topology joke here. In some cases slicers such as OrcaSlicer can repair these issues, but you have to be running on a Windows platform as they use some Microsoft specific stuff. Not great if you're a linux person...

Lastly but worth keeping in mind: There are 3D printing technologies out there that can handle models that are not printable using home level printers. These models may be quite economical to get printed by a service outfit like PCBway or others, typically using powder bed fusion technology.

That's about as simple as I can make it without over simplifying I think, it can be a real can of worms.
 
All the above comments make it sound overwhelming. Short answer is, YES. Find what you want to have printed and contact a few printers people.

Those images/files have “requirements “ like you can’t sell the printed piece, you can’t print and give away. They make their money selling the item and need the buyer to understand there are constraints. Having a printing company print for you I don’t believe is an issue you just have to follow the terms and conditions of the purchase.

Good luck, it’s not difficult. That is what you should come away with. The details are left to the printer company.
 
It almost certainly just means the objects do not have the printing supports already in place and, as jjs1950 says, that should not be an issue for anyone willing to print for you. Personally, I would actually prefer it this way, as I would be loathe to trust the support placement decisions of someone I don't know, when if they are bad it might trash my expensive screen! Besides which, it is better to re-scale first, then add supports at the point of printing.

One thing to check for, when potentially buying soft models, is that the object is 'manifold'. To quote google "In 3D printing, "non-manifold" means a digital 3D model has impossible geometry that cannot exist as a real, solid physical object. Slicing software cannot figure out what is inside or outside, which causes printing errors or failed prints." You won't be able to tell by looking so ask the seller in advance. Most slicer programmes can fix this issue so it's not necessarily a deal breaker.
Sorry to have baically repeated your definition of manifold. I missed your post, but didn't intend to be one of those people who repeats others posts as their own. Funny we both use the inside and outside way of viewing topological things
:)
 
Thanks for the input all. I have been considering purchasing a 3D printer to print some of the fittings for my models, and I am sure my wife and I can come up with other things. That is who;le other discussion.....what kind, etc.

As stated above this can be quite overwhelming. I used to do 3D design for the injection mold industry back when it was first coming out....say 30 years ago? But I switched careers and never bothered keeping up with the tech. I can see that it would be quite a good thing to have a handle now.
 
Hey Herb..haven''t forgotten about you and some figures...busy dealing with wet Mac in right eye and 39 rad treatments for prostate cancer. Have three ships going, just finished a 20 ship show at local art studio as well. I am going to build the Pilar..tried to get the 1/12 RC plans but too stupid to successfully get the download. Instead, I bought the MS kit and will blow up the plans for a scratchbuild in good wood..so I'll be in touch for a Hemmingway figure when I decide on a scale..lotta wood,less time at age 78
All the best,
John Coryea
 
Hey Herb..haven''t forgotten about you and some figures...busy dealing with wet Mac in right eye and 39 rad treatments for prostate cancer. Have three ships going, just finished a 20 ship show at local art studio as well. I am going to build the Pilar..tried to get the 1/12 RC plans but too stupid to successfully get the download. Instead, I bought the MS kit and will blow up the plans for a scratchbuild in good wood..so I'll be in touch for a Hemmingway figure when I decide on a scale..lotta wood,less time at age 78
All the best,
John Coryea
Take care of yourself #1….the figures arent going anywhere! They are quite content in my shop! Lol
 
Thanks for the input all. I have been considering purchasing a 3D printer to print some of the fittings for my models, and I am sure my wife and I can come up with other things. That is who;le other discussion.....what kind, etc.

As stated above this can be quite overwhelming. I used to do 3D design for the injection mold industry back when it was first coming out....say 30 years ago? But I switched careers and never bothered keeping up with the tech. I can see that it would be quite a good thing to have a handle now.
Before you buy a printer you may want to see if your local library has one. At mine you can produce products for $2 an hour with the filament included. If you want to buy one I recommend the bambu printers. They seem quite reasonable and definitely have more bang for the buck, as well as being very easy to operate.

If you require a resin printer for very fine parts, that is another question entirely.

Rob
 
Before you buy a printer you may want to see if your local library has one. At mine you can produce products for $2 an hour with the filament included. If you want to buy one I recommend the bambu printers. They seem quite reasonable and definitely have more bang for the buck, as well as being very easy to operate.

If you require a resin printer for very fine parts, that is another question entirely.

Rob
It's something I've been mulling over..... I don't really need a lot of 3D printed stuff, I try to scratch build what I can't find on the fitting market but at the same time a printer would come in handy for other non-model related stuff I'd imagine. Resin vs filament...... then learning the software, etc. I know resin printers need to be well ventilated and there are some hazards with regards to material handling as well.
 
Thanks for the input all. I have been considering purchasing a 3D printer to print some of the fittings for my models, and I am sure my wife and I can come up with other things. That is who;le other discussion.....what kind, etc.
I am upgrading from my original Flashforge printer. The bamboo printer series does seem to be ubiquitous out there now, but I have an issue with having to have an account in china to print on my printer. I also noted that they auto update, and could decide to paywall features in the future. Oh yes, one other issue for me on the bamboo: the amount of waste on multi-color printing. Everytime you change color, they purge some of the material. They generate so much waste that they have a chute out the back! Right now, it’s almost impossible to recycle the waste from 3d printers, so it just ends up in a landfill.

So I went with the Prusa printer instead. All local, all open source, and not made in china. No need for an account anywhere, either. Another reason I went with prusa, they have multiple heads that swap out, so no waste. Of course, my old Flashforge had ganged print heads, and just switched on the fly which head it was printing from. So no purging there, either. And I highly recommend at least a two head printer (or switcher) so you can print with dedicated support material. Makes removing supports so much easier.

Honestly, a lot of the machines out there are similar, so look at the features. Both bamboo and prusa come with free slicer software, dedicated and optimized to their own machines, so you’ll learn to use it for that machine, thus lowering the learning curve.

Can’t say much about resin printing, since the last time I used that form, it was actually a sintering machine instead.

Good luck!
 
I am upgrading from my original Flashforge printer. The bamboo printer series does seem to be ubiquitous out there now, but I have an issue with having to have an account in china to print on my printer. I also noted that they auto update, and could decide to paywall features in the future. Oh yes, one other issue for me on the bamboo: the amount of waste on multi-color printing. Everytime you change color, they purge some of the material. They generate so much waste that they have a chute out the back! Right now, it’s almost impossible to recycle the waste from 3d printers, so it just ends up in a landfill.

So I went with the Prusa printer instead. All local, all open source, and not made in china. No need for an account anywhere, either. Another reason I went with prusa, they have multiple heads that swap out, so no waste. Of course, my old Flashforge had ganged print heads, and just switched on the fly which head it was printing from. So no purging there, either. And I highly recommend at least a two head printer (or switcher) so you can print with dedicated support material. Makes removing supports so much easier.

Honestly, a lot of the machines out there are similar, so look at the features. Both bamboo and prusa come with free slicer software, dedicated and optimized to their own machines, so you’ll learn to use it for that machine, thus lowering the learning curve.

Can’t say much about resin printing, since the last time I used that form, it was actually a sintering machine instead.

Good luck!
Thanks!

My one local guy who has done printing for me in the past is very knowledgable, I would likely buy one either from him or based on his recommendations as he knows what I generally print, and based on budget of course too!
 
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