Protective Cases

D

Drobbs

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May 2, 2023
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Does anyone have a suggestion on building vs. purchasing an acrylic case for their ship model? A well built model with rigging does not fair well when pitted against a curious cat, so protection is required. I’ve watched a dozen videos on how it’s done, but I have many doubts on how my unprofessional results will fair. Acrylic sheets can be cut on a table saw (I don’t have one), or scored and snapped on a line (creating rough edges) which might not glue so well or look decent.
I’ll take as many suggestions or comments as people will offer!
 
If you have the tools and the ability, it's not difficult to make your own wooden frame and then put acrylic or glass in it. I generally don't order the glass until the frame is done and then get the exact size that it turned out to be. There are several manufacturers that build cases generally out of acrylic, but no matter which way you go it will be expensive. When I worked as a commercial model maker years ago I always put the models in acrylic cases. Always had to caution the customer not to display the case and model next to a window in direct sunlight, as it would deteriorate the ship and turn the acrylic yellow over time.
 
I have made 2 acrylic covers. I carefully measured what I needed and bought bespoke sheets. There are a number of companies that will do this. Unfortunately they state they will cut to 1-2mm accuracy which is not always good enough. I also requested polished edges which cost a bit more but are vital. When I got the sheets I formed the box and held it together with adhesive tape to begin with. I used some disgusting smelling stuff called Tensol 12. It is not a glue but works like the adhesive for plastic models and 'welds'the acrylic sheets together. It is something of a labour but does keep the dust and hopefully curious cats off. I can send some pictures of my efforts if you would like.
 
Mike Dowling said:
I have made 2 acrylic covers. I carefully measured what I needed and bought bespoke sheets. There are a number of companies that will do this. Unfortunately they state they will cut to 1-2mm accuracy which is not always good enough. I also requested polished edges which cost a bit more but are vital. When I got the sheets I formed the box and held it together with adhesive tape to begin with. I used some disgusting smelling stuff called Tensol 12. It is not a glue but works like the adhesive for plastic models and 'welds'the acrylic sheets together. It is something of a labour but does keep the dust and hopefully curious cats off. I can send some pictures of my efforts if you would like.
Click to expand...
Hi Mike.
I would appreciate a couple of pictures. Looking to have something like that done up for a couple of my projects.
Cheers,
Steve
 
If you don't have a table saw, you are pretty limited with respect to making your own cases. If you have access to one, making a case is not all that difficult. (The average table saw kerf will be just the right width for picture framing glass or plastic sheet.) Absent a DIY project, I believe the best option is to go to a plastics fabrication shop and have them make you a plastic box to put over it. These can cost a bit, but they aren't hugely expensive as long as you don't try to buy one from someplace that calls them "ship model cases!" Most areas will have plastics fabrication shops that produce display items for stores and the like and can put together what you are looking for. They will do a good job of it, too. I've never been any good at gluing plastics with the proprietary solvents. The pros can ensure you'll get invisible "welded" joints.

I expect that shops that cater to the commercial customers, such as store displays and such, will be less expensive than the standard retail options, but if you can't find a fabrication shop locally, you may be able to locate a Tap Plastics shop nearby. Tap Plastics is a plastics supplier and fabricator that focuses its business on the general public DIY segment of the market. See: https://www.tapplastics.com/?msclkid=b63205a9471815983aaf62cf4c9cab7d&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=ECI - Trademark - TAP Plastics [CONV]&utm_term=tap plastics&utm_content=tap plastics and https://www.tapplastics.com/product_info/plastics_information/custom_fabrication
 
I have a system for building glass cases for my models. So far I have built 9. Bob is right, a table saw is essential foe making the wood frame. With the right blade, a table saw also easily cuts 1/8,” approximately 3mm, acrylic plastic sheet.

I personally have had bad luck making the glued all plastic cases. The adhesive either gets smeared or fails to produce a sound joint.

For the glass cases that I make, I use single strength glass surrounded by a hardwood frame. I have used American Black Walnut, Mahogany and Teak. Single strength glass cut to size is quite inexpensive, when bought from our local hardware store. The savings relative to purchased cases are enough to pay for a table saw capable of milling the wood for a case. To cut the decorative moulding for the base, I use a set of moulding cutters that fit my table saw. A router would also work. Photo below.

A set of picture frame clamps is essential for maintaining the right angles of the case. Mine are over 50 years old and at least used to be very inexpensive.


IMG_0210.jpeg
Roger
 
Mike Dowling said:
I have made 2 acrylic covers. I carefully measured what I needed and bought bespoke sheets. There are a number of companies that will do this. Unfortunately they state they will cut to 1-2mm accuracy which is not always good enough. I also requested polished edges which cost a bit more but are vital. When I got the sheets I formed the box and held it together with adhesive tape to begin with. I used some disgusting smelling stuff called Tensol 12. It is not a glue but works like the adhesive for plastic models and 'welds'the acrylic sheets together. It is something of a labour but does keep the dust and hopefully curious cats off. I can send some pictures of my efforts if you would like.
Click to expand...
I had to look up the definition of "bespoke" because I unfortunately don't speak the King's English.
 
Drobbs said:
Does anyone have a suggestion on building vs. purchasing an acrylic case for their ship model? A well built model with rigging does not fair well when pitted against a curious cat, so protection is required. I’ve watched a dozen videos on how it’s done, but I have many doubts on how my unprofessional results will fair. Acrylic sheets can be cut on a table saw (I don’t have one), or scored and snapped on a line (creating rough edges) which might not glue so well or look decent.
I’ll take as many suggestions or comments as people will offer!
Click to expand...
I had an acrylic box made commercially for my Bluenose model, but decided to have the back panel of mirrored acrylic in order to avoid the distraction of back ground objects or a wall. In addition, if the model is against a wall, the mirrored back allows one to view the back of the model too. I live in South Africa, and cost wise it was in the region of $100 (the mirrored panel is more pricey)

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fourseas said:
If you have the tools and the ability, it's not difficult to make your own wooden frame and then put acrylic or glass in it. I generally don't order the glass until the frame is done and then get the exact size that it turned out to be. There are several manufacturers that build cases generally out of acrylic, but no matter which way you go it will be expensive. When I worked as a commercial model maker years ago I always put the models in acrylic cases. Always had to caution the customer not to display the case and model next to a window in direct sunlight, as it would deteriorate the ship and turn the acrylic yellow over time.
Click to expand...
Excellent advice all around, to which I'll add a caveat against placing the cased model directly in the airflow path from an AC/heat vent.
 
I've had difficulty scoring and breaking plastic, but now the big box store where I buy it will cut it for me. My model table saw cuts it but I couldn't handle the large sheets. I like plastic for larger models because it weighs so much less than glass. The local glass shop will cut, polish, and glue a case but not with 1/8" glass. I had them make a small case of 1/4" glass and it weighs a lot and looks a bit too much.
Guy
 
One option, if your ship is not too large is to look for trophy or memento boxes at stores like Michaels or Hobby Lobby. They are used to hold football helmets, Bats Etc. They are significantly less expensive. Here are 2 examples.

IMG_9447.jpegIMG_9445.jpeg
 
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