Question: laser fumes extraction and filter technology indoors 'how too/diy'

Have you thought about buying a CNC router instead? Something like the Genmitsu 3018. The end result would be similar and at least you then won't need fume extraction, though you might still want some kind of vacuum.

As I'm said in my other, laser-related, post this evening, laser cutting is really bad for smoke and fumes. Personally, I wouldn't do it without good outside ventilation. A couple of years ago I had my 3D printers running in my office instead of the workshop, as the office is warmer. I ended up in hospital with severe pneumonia and I think this was because of the fumes. Laser cutting is 10 times worse than 3D printing.
 
Kevin the Lubber said:
Have you thought about buying a CNC router instead? Something like the Genmitsu 3018. The end result would be similar and at least you then won't need fume extraction, though you might still want some kind of vacuum.

As I'm said in my other, laser-related, post this evening, laser cutting is really bad for smoke and fumes. Personally, I wouldn't do it without good outside ventilation. A couple of years ago I had my 3D printers running in my office instead of the workshop, as the office is warmer. I ended up in hospital with severe pneumonia and I think this was because of the fumes. Laser cutting is 10 times worse than 3D printing.
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I assume you were using a resin-type 3d printer. Those are bad. As for the CNC machine, I agree 100%. I have one and I purchased an enclosure to keep the noise level down. They are extremely noisy, as you know.
 
Jack Sparrow said:
I assume you were using a resin-type 3d printer. Those are bad.
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Yes, two of the wee beasties running almost non-stop (three now!). I think the danger is prolonged inhalation of the fumes during a print cycle, especially if, like me, you've got a bit of respiratory history. As the machines are now housed in a custom heated cabinet in the garage rather than office it's no problem. I've thought of extending the ductwork from the laser to also extract from the resin printers, but it seems to me I'd just be sucking hot air out and cold air in, which defeats the purpose in heating the cabinet. I kept the FDM printer in the office as I've never had any problems with that.

Agree, routers are pretty noisy and can be pretty messy too. Laser is quiet and if it wasn't for the fumes and the char it would be the ideal process for a hobby workshop. Having said that, once I have the air assist and extractor going, it's a lot noisier than my printers.
 
I'd make a decision about what to do. It's definitely not a laser printer, for now. I'll start with a 3D filament printer.
Actually I already buy one, second hand a Creality ender 3V2. It was a cheap deal for a machine with extra's and almost new, at least not much used.
Need a dust cleaning because it was stored a time in a workshop.

So I will now start learning how it works.

IMG_4745.JPG
 
Steef66 said:
I'd make a decision about what to do. It's definitely not a laser printer, for now. I'll start with a 3D filament printer.
Actually I already buy one, second hand a Creality ender 3V2. It was a cheap deal for a machine with extra's and almost new, at least not much used.
Need a dust cleaning because it was stored a time in a workshop.

So I will now start learning how it works.

View attachment 476243
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I have a V1 of that printer brand. I put a lot of upgrades on it such as a glass base, I changed the level springs, I installed software that allows me to manage the printer from my laptop(Octopi and Octoprint) and a few other goodies.
Nothing majorly expensive just a lot of work to modify. I have printed a couple of things so far, but I am not doing enough with it. LIke all my other projects, progress is slow.
I am a tooloholic. lol
One question I am not to sure of is whether I need to store the reel of filament in a dryer. Apparently the filament reacts with moisture in the air, but I am not too clear on what the impact of that is on printing. I really don't want to buy one of those dryers.
 
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Jack Sparrow said:
I have a V1 of that printer brand. I put a lot of upgrades on it such as a glass base, I changed the level springs, I installed software that allows me to manage the printer from my laptop(Octopi and Octoprint) and a few other goodies.
Nothing majorly expensive just a lot of work to modify. I have printed a couple of things so far, but I am not doing enough with it. LIke all my other projects, progress is slow.
I am a tooloholic. lol
One question I am not to sure of is whether I need to store the reel of filament in a dryer. Apparently the filament reacts with moisture in the air, but I am not too clear on what the impact of that is on printing. I really don't want to buy one of those dryers.
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I had a few years back a job interview at a company what makes 3D parts on order. They have about 2000 3D printer in a big factory hall. And they where very clear about these drying boxes. They had boxes to store the filament and they had special cartridges to keep them in when they install them in the machine, and again these machines where all separate build in a box with climate controll. They told me that moisture could boil in the filament and that could cause problems while printing and also could give Inaccuracies in the print. But when you use your printer in your house, I don't know if it is very necessary to have a box for it. The moisture in home is mostly low.
 
Great machines, I still use mine and also applied various upgrades which made a big difference. From memory, I put in a silent motherboard, which stops all that whirring noise. I don't know how or why, but it works extremely well. I fitted a silent fan to the power supply. Between these two, the machine is so quiet that I was able to be in online meetings with the printer running just 1 metre away, without any sound disturbance.

I also fitted the better springs and the self levelling kit. Before, I used to need to check the level every few days. After fittings these, I can't remember when I last checked the level but it must be at least a year ago. (I probably ought to check calibration soon as a matter of good practice).

But, by far and away the best thing I did was buy a filament dryer. I bought the Sunlu model which has since been superceded by an upgraded model. If I was buying now, I would buy the more expensive one. Since buying the dryer, I only ever have fails or really stringy prints when I haven't had the patience to dry out the filament first. When I do things properly, it is like using a freshly opened reel ever time. Even when I re-dry in advance, I always have the dryer running while printing.
 
Kevin the Lubber said:
Great machines, I still use mine and also applied various upgrades which made a big difference. From memory, I put in a silent motherboard, which stops all that whirring noise. I don't know how or why, but it works extremely well. I fitted a silent fan to the power supply. Between these two, the machine is so quiet that I was able to be in online meetings with the printer running just 1 metre away, without any sound disturbance.

I also fitted the better springs and the self levelling kit. Before, I used to need to check the level every few days. After fittings these, I can't remember when I last checked the level but it must be at least a year ago. (I probably ought to check calibration soon as a matter of good practice).

But, by far and away the best thing I did was buy a filament dryer. I bought the Sunlu model which has since been superceded by an upgraded model. If I was buying now, I would buy the more expensive one. Since buying the dryer, I only ever have fails or really stringy prints when I haven't had the patience to dry out the filament first. When I do things properly, it is like using a freshly opened reel ever time. Even when I re-dry in advance, I always have the dryer running while printing
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I hear you. Maybe it would be wise to buy one of those dryers. I'll look into it further.
 
Jack Sparrow said:
blueray player
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And I thought I was old school, still buying CD's!

Honestly, the dryer is transformative. I hardly used my Ender 3 for a year or two because I got so fed up with failed prints and strings. Now, it's my 'go-to' for tooling, anything that needs a bit of heft, and also a little arts and crafts sideline, to the point where I'm starting to think about replacing it with something bigger.
 
 
paul ron said:
i have a cheap one from amazon a few years ago for $25 and its wonderful. using a program, i can convert dvd movies to a file i store on thumb drives.



amazon canada...

more here amazon ca


...
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thanks but i am looking for a brand that I know like verbatim or LG.
 
I'm a few days now in 3D printing. And I kind of love it. I'm learned a lot by now and it's is easy to learn I can say. You just need a program to generate the Gcode, Gcode is the code the #d printer reads and with that code it makes the object. I use Autocad to generate my object and export that object to an STL file where I can use Prucaslicer, for example, to slice the object up and export it to Gcode. And such a program is simple in use, just a few settings and your done. Sound like abracadabra, but it is just doing it once and then you understand. (except Autocad)
Only printing could take some time. At this moment he is printing an upgrade for the fence of my Proxxon FSK table saw and that wil take op to 4 days of printing!! Because of the density of the object, need to bee strong.
 
Steef66 said:
I'm a few days now in 3D printing. And I kind of love it. I'm learned a lot by now and it's is easy to learn I can say. You just need a program to generate the Gcode, Gcode is the code the #d printer reads and with that code it makes the object. I use Autocad to generate my object and export that object to an STL file where I can use Prucaslicer, for example, to slice the object up and export it to Gcode. And such a program is simple in use, just a few settings and your done. Sound like abracadabra, but it is just doing it once and then you understand. (except Autocad)
Only printing could take some time. At this moment he is printing an upgrade for the fence of my Proxxon FSK table saw and that wil take op to 4 days of printing!! Because of the density of the object, need to bee strong.
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just remember, the longer it takes to print, the more you have a chance of something going wrong. Believe me, I know this firsthand. I have a program that estimates for me how long it takes to print something, and I don't know if I would let the printer run for 4 days straight. It is called Octoprint.
 
These are more parts together each print takes 1 day and 17+ hours. Most time goes in the dence 3D honeycomp structure and the thicker walls.
 
The fumes coming from a 3D printer in a close room are even unfriendly. So I ordered a carbon filter for my room cleaner.
 
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