Recommendations on making metal strops with hooks and end eyes

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I would like some suggestions on how to use wire to strop small blocks in the 4 to 6 mm size and hook on one end and also with an eye as a starter block for an arrangement of the fall back and forth from the single starter to a double on the other end.
I have been twisting fine copper wire but am not satisfied with the appearance of the twists and length that is produced.
My dock is open to any and all suggestions and recommendations as I am working at a 1/64 scale (3/16" = 1'-0" so size is critical to appearance. Small metal hooks or eyes fastened to thread stropping is not a much of a problem so it is metal that I am asking about.
Thanks, Rich (PT-2)
 
I cheated when I did mine. I too used hooks and eyes for the terminal ends of the block and stropped them with black thread with a bit of PVA glue. But then again I wasn't looking for perfection, just representation. The eye sees what the eye wants to see. Hope that's a help.
 
I cheated when I did mine. I too used hooks and eyes for the terminal ends of the block and stropped them with black thread with a bit of PVA glue. But then again I wasn't looking for perfection, just representation. The eye sees what the eye wants to see. Hope that's a help.
I cheated when I did mine. I too used hooks and eyes for the terminal ends of the block and stropped them with black thread with a bit of PVA glue. But then again I wasn't looking for perfection, just representation. The eye sees what the eye wants to see. Hope that's a help.
Thanks for sending the illustrations and photo of blocks stropped with line/thread. They appear to be larger than the smaller ones that I want to strop with wire/metal. I thought of making a wire hook with a closed eye end which could be stropped with wire or line to the end of the block. The same may be feasible with a hook on one end and an eye/thimble on the other but the diameters have to be at 1 mm or less. I'll use these suggestions and keep my dock open for others. Thanks again, Rich (PT-2)
 
So, what would be your ideal wire diameter?
I think that wire diameter relates to the size of the block and whether a hook or an eye is wanted.
I am working with blocks needing hooks for 3, 4, 5, and 6 mm blocks single and multiple. The hook wire needs to be strong enough not to be pulled straight under the running rigging load which is the major problem down at the 3 and 4 mm sizes. For the BN schooner built/launched 1921 the standing rigging was galvanized wire cable. Running had a fiber except in a few locations where chain was used. My 26 ga copper works for stropping and a secured end but not hooks. I am beginning to think about trying a heavier wire for a hook or closed eye and securing those with the small 26 ga which sits well in the grooves around the block.
Using the 26 ga with a twist and then a bent hook is too weak from my trials. Bigger problem is getting solid conductor wire between 20 and 26 ga. Most small wire is very small stranded wires inside of the insulating cover. I need to find a wire source for those wire sizes. Local shops don't have what I am looking for. Rich
 
So. What I think you need to consider is motor winding wire. McMaster Carr carries a lot of sizes. Give it a look.
 

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So. What I think you need to consider is motor winding wire. McMaster Carr carries a lot of sizes. Give it a look.
MacMaster is very expensive, IMHO. The store serves mostly professionals and big corporations in tools and materials. There places you can get much cheaper copper\brass and steel wire in many different diameters. Check this store, it has a galore of different wires.

 
I would like some suggestions on how to use wire to strop small blocks in the 4 to 6 mm size and hook on one end and also with an eye as a starter block for an arrangement of the fall back and forth from the single starter to a double on the other end.
I have been twisting fine copper wire but am not satisfied with the appearance of the twists and length that is produced.
My dock is open to any and all suggestions and recommendations as I am working at a 1/64 scale (3/16" = 1'-0" so size is critical to appearance. Small metal hooks or eyes fastened to thread stropping is not a much of a problem so it is metal that I am asking about.
Thanks, Rich (PT-2)
The best technique for using wire to strop blocks is DON"T DO IT. Wire looks terrible. You can't make wire look good. Strop the blocks with rope made from cotton crochet thread. The Nautical Research Journal had a long article on the process a few year ago.The process is simple, uses simple bench made 'tools' and is foolproof. Stropping blocks is one of the more advanced techniques REQUIRED in sailing ship modeling, IF YOU ARE GOING TO MODEL SAILING SHIPS. Learn to do it right (right means histoically accurate). 250 years ago, ALL sailors knew how to 'hand, reef and steer'. Nothing has changed. You might think of yourself as a lilliputian sailor tfrom hat period.
 
MacMaster is very expensive, IMHO. The store serves mostly professionals and big corporations in tools and materials. There places you can get much cheaper copper\brass and steel wire in many different diameters. Check this store, it has a galore of different wires.

They are expensive. And they provide industrial quantities. But they do have an extensive catalog. Grainger's too. One time I needed fine copper wire and was able to unwind a small transformer for the wire....something to consider...
 
Another easy source of wire is a hobby/craft store that features a jewelry making section. Jewelry crafting uses several sizes of wire as well as a number of colors. Normally a lot less expensive. I have stocked my wire supply from the jewelry section of Joanns Fabric and Craft store for many years now. The why is because I browse around while the Admiral is getting fabric for making quilts! :)
 
Fly tying wire is also a possibility. Different sizes and colors. Try Orvis or other fly fishing outlets online. {eg. "Green Caddis" , "In the Riffle" and many others.}
 
I would like some suggestions on how to use wire to strop small blocks in the 4 to 6 mm size and hook on one end and also with an eye as a starter block for an arrangement of the fall back and forth from the single starter to a double on the other end.
I have been twisting fine copper wire but am not satisfied with the appearance of the twists and length that is produced.
My dock is open to any and all suggestions and recommendations as I am working at a 1/64 scale (3/16" = 1'-0" so size is critical to appearance. Small metal hooks or eyes fastened to thread stropping is not a much of a problem so it is metal that I am asking about.
Thanks, Rich (PT-2)
Brass tubing of appropriate diameter might be used for strop and silver soldered wire for eyes/hooks.
 
Brass tubing of appropriate diameter might be used for strop and silver soldered wire for eyes/hooks.
Thanks for the suggestion. My problem is with making hooks that are proportionally smaller than the block, even at the 1:64 scale (3/16" = 1'-0") so I need hooks about 4 inches long in that scale yet strong enough not to pull open under rigging tension of the boom tackle that is hung beneath the Bluenose schooner booms. Here is a photo of the elevation drawing showing this tackle and the size of blocks suspended below it. The blocks' sizes are noted and give a clue as to how much smaller the hook needs to be.Foreboom Tackle Rigging.jpg
The main boom has a similar suspended tackle which is about three times longer. Rich
 
So. There is wire known as memory wire. I buy it at Hobby Lobby. It is a hardened wire available with different platings. The stuff I have is .025" diameter. It is very durable, somewhat hard to bend. It will retain its strength once bent. It is made by www.bendalon.com and they have a pretty good selection.not expensive at all. Maybe give it a look.....Screenshot_20210504-200511_Chrome.jpgScreenshot_20210504-200541_Chrome.jpg
 
==So. There is wire known as memory wire. I buy it at Hobby Lobby. It is a hardened wire available with different platings. The stuff I have is .025" diameter. It is very durable, somewhat hard to bend. It will retain its strength once bent. It is made by www.bendalon.com and they have a pretty good selection.not expensive at all. Maybe give it a look.....View attachment 231372View attachment 231371
I will check this out at the local Hobby Lobby and try to get a feel of it. Thanks, Rich
 
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