Revenge - Occre Build on the table by MarkDerby

[MarkDerby]

It has been awhile since I introduced myself to the group and posted some progress pictures of my Occre Revenge build but I have slowly been putting the 2nd planking on

To relive the "boredom" of this - if this is the right word - I started to look at the baulwarks capping? Having had a 3d printer for longer than I can remember I decided to design and create some formers for the bow in Fusion 360 and printed them in ASA for the strength and heat tolerance. They were designed with a 15 - 20% reduction in the curve to allow for spring back. After soaking the Walnut for 24hrs these were pressed and clamped into the formers and left for another 24hrs to dry

I can honestly say other than a small amount of extra forming using heat they fitted quite nicely with zero splintering. I'm now designing the former for the centre deck part to be able to form and bend the walnut in 2 directions and the smaller radii either end so it is in one piece. I will report on the progress/success of this complicated piece

I have attached some images of the above inc 1st planking finished pictures for those that missed my first post

If anyone would like the stl's for free I can send them to you or I can print and post the finished formers for a small fee to cover materials and postage if you do not have access to a 3D printer- apologies but not sure of private messaging etc on this forum or if it is even possible so I can send you the files etc or even if I can post them here for anyone to download?

Thanks for watching

 

[AllanKP69]

For the future, the planking is much easier to do correctly if the garboard is laid in correctly. The forward end stopped at about the forward edge of the boxing joint as can be seen on the planking expansion drawing below. If it runs too far forward there is not enough room for all the other planks to end in the rabbet of the stem.
Allan

 

[MarkDerby]

For the future, the planking is much easier to do correctly if the garboard is laid in correctly. The forward end stopped at about the forward edge of the boxing joint as can be seen on the planking expansion drawing below. If it runs too far forward there is not enough room for all the other planks to end in the rabbet of the stem.
Allan
View attachment 622758

Yes. I managed OK on the 1st layer but for some reason I couldn't get it to lay as I wanted on the 2nd layer. Learning curve as it is the first time planking a ship but I can make do and not have the remainder of the lower planks running up to the bow. I'll do what most have done - even Occre in their instructions

 

[AllanKP69]

The key is to have every strake (unless there is a drop strake) to end in the rabbet and never come to a point like the kit photo shows. To do this the planks all have to taper in breadth. Then, they have to be pre-formed across the breadth to edge bend. Something to keep in mind for the future, the sapele is awful wood to work with for a ship model as it is brittle and very porous. I am guessing the kits use it because it is cheap, but if you look at the various build logs you will see that high quality kits use much better wood for planking. You can also study planking articles and/or watch the four part video which shows how to size the breadth of every plank so they taper at the rabbet to be no less than half the widest portion at the dead flat as they go forward and how to edge bend ahead of time so they do not lift. The video link had been posted many times here at SoS and is worth the time to watch it.
Allan

 

[AllanKP69]

Edited out. Is there a way to just delete one of our own posts?
Allan

 

[MisterCA]

Edited out. Is there a way to just delete one of our own posts?
Allan

Good question. I have often tried without success. I'm sure the instructions are somewhere here but I have failed to find them. Can edit however which is a good thing!