Ropes of Scale Untwisting once cut

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I am working on my standing rigging with my Ropes of Scale lines. Problem - every time I cut my line it untwists. I have tried various glues, waxes but nothing. I am seeking advice / suggestions on how I can control this un twisting of the line.

Thank you in advance for any and all constructive advise.
 
1. make sure that you have the thread twist and the rope twist in opposite directions. Z for one, S for the other. If you are using Gutermann thread I find that Z to combine the threads into strands, and S for the second twist of strands into rope works best. Other brands might be different. This does require a 2 motor ropewalk, preferably with reversing switches on each motor.
2. check the angle of the twist. both should be approximately 45 degrees. You might need magnification to check this.
3. a dab of CA glue at the ends before cutting it free is helpful but will not overcome problems with 1. or 2.
4. Harden the rope before cutting it free. (stretch and hold it several times quite firmly. The threads will bite into each other, and tend to hold their position.)
5. If you have got the steps correct, there will be no tendency for the rope to unravel.

photo 1 explains Z and S twists. palm is up.
photo 2 shows 2 Gutermann threads before any looping (twisting)
photo 3 shows combining the threads (looping), but extra twisting is required to reach 45 degrees
photo 4 shows the finished rope with an S twist. It did not unravel.
the last 3 photos show the benefit of examining the stages with a magnifying device. (a cheap electronic microscope in my case)

rope hand.jpg

2 gutermann threads.JPG

IMG_5567.JPG

IMG_5571.JPG
 
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Many people have trouble with my ropes unraveling. It's the thread that causes the problem. Some polyesters behave better, but the one I use has a mind of its own. I heat treat the ropes, and it does help, but it's not enough sometimes.

The only real way to tame them is to use CA glue or clear nail polish on the spots you need to cut. You need to add it to the desired spot before cutting. Another option I've heard a customer use to great effect was a hot knife with a #11 blade on it, you can find them on Amazon (Hot Knife). Heat works really well to seal the ends and I imagine the hot knife would be really fast to get the job done.

I'm sorry you are battling the ropes over there. I know I've fought many battles with that rope, but darn does it look sharp!
 
You need to add it to the desired spot before cutting.
I was just thinking about this string and was about to check if this was mentioned. Once you have done it, it is obvious but for those that have not may have been trying to repair the unwindings. Liquid CA soaks into the rope much more easily than gel. Gel has its place as well, but for this task, it does not suit as well as the liquid IMHO.
Allan
 
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If rope is polyester, bake it in oven at 375 deg. F for 5 minutes. For any type of rope dab drop of thin CA glue on the rope area where you plan to cut. This is not on the end of rope! Cut when CA solidifies.
 
Yes this happens to me sometimes to, especially the polyester yarn that is made from reused polyester.

I use a lighter to seal the rope but the advice to use a heat knife is also an option. Other wise the advice from Y.T. to put it back in the oven to heat tread it. look here, there is an description how rope is made from polyester and the heat tread method, updated with the heat method from Ben
 
you can tie a common whipping knot just below where you cut the rope or cable. It was a common stop knot used on real ships and looks authentic. I don't like CA, it can be bad on some synthetic fibers. I use a drop of PVA or acrylic floor finish to seal the knot as insurance.
 
I'm sorry you are battling the ropes over there. I know I've fought many battles with that rope, but darn does it look sharp!
Yes, polyester rope looks sharp but I switched to making rope with cotton as a compromise. 1. I’m horribly allergic to CA fumes. 2. The only thing I manage CA to stick to is my fingers;).
I use DMC Cordonnet (https://hhtatting.com/product/dmc-cordonnet-special-size-100-ecru/) in various sizes. The ecru looks like running rigging should and it’s easy to dye darker with standard fabric dye.
 
Polyester rope don't un ravel when it is heat treaded (baked in the oven) but sometimes the yarn you use need some more heat. So put it back in the oven and problem solved. After that cut it with no problems. Start with 1 minute, if that don't give the result you want give it another minute.
 
Yes, polyester rope looks sharp but I switched to making rope with cotton as a compromise. 1. I’m horribly allergic to CA fumes. 2. The only thing I manage CA to stick to is my fingers;).
I use DMC Cordonnet (https://hhtatting.com/product/dmc-cordonnet-special-size-100-ecru/) in various sizes. The ecru looks like running rigging should and it’s easy to dye darker with standard fabric dye.
If you are allergic to CA, I would suggest you try UV setting glues, you can get them inexpensively from Amazon along with a UV setting flashlight. It will not harden until exposed to the UV light and the UV light sets it almost instantly, thus it is easier IMHO to work with. I have been using it more and more when I need a CA like glue. It does not have the strength of a CA bond but for rigging or PE parts it is more than sufficient.
 
Hi all,
I make polyester ropes and, indeed, to make them cut without unraveling, I heat them with a heat gun for about 30 seconds, without staying in the same place. After this treatment, the ropes can be cut without any problem.
Regards.
Fred
 
I use an Artemio heat gun (intended for Scrap booking). My committing machine pulls the rope downwards and I let it wind in a terracotta dish on the ground. Then I heat this winding by softly turning the hot air flow. At the end I wind the rope on a piece of cardboard. I will make a video tomorrow if I find the time.
 
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