Scarfs on strakes

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On strakes that had to be scarfed is there a right or wrong way for the scarfs to face? Like did they slope down bow to stern? It's a small point but I'd hate to finish a ship and have someone say, "It's perfect but you've got your scarfs sloped the wrong way."
 
On strakes that had to be scarfed is there a right or wrong way for the scarfs to face? Like did they slope down bow to stern? It's a small point but I'd hate to finish a ship and have someone say, "It's perfect but you've got your scarfs sloped the wrong way."
I cannot say for sure which way. In looking through my book, The Art of Ship Modeling, Bernard Frolich, I have not seen an answer to that question, it may be there somewhere, but I do see a photo on pages 57-59 where the hull planking ends are butted squarely over the center of frames under the topic of Nails and Treenails. I do recall seeing posts by other SoS members about the same question and their scarf direction. Hope it works out for you. Rich (PT-2)
 
On strakes that had to be scarfed is there a right or wrong way for the scarfs to face? Like did they slope down bow to stern? It's a small point but I'd hate to finish a ship and have someone say, "It's perfect but you've got your scarfs sloped the wrong way."
Hello, Don! Unless you are building the exact copy model of the real ship, you should research and refer to the drafts or plans using to build your model. Also, how about the length of the scarf or the deepness of the cut of it, as well as what type of scarf has been used? You will need to take care of those as well for the authentic representation ;) But wait...The hull planking doesn't scarf (unless it is a wale), they are butted.

From Charles G. Davis notes in his book The Building of a Wooden Ship:

Scarfing timbers together is one of the most important processes in wooden shipbuilding and deserves a detailed explanation.
The length of the scarf is shown in the plans or specifications and is usually given to the workmen by the foreman who lays out the work. The foreman also tells the workmen the depth to make the pointed end or nib, as it is called, but if he does not, 23 percent, or about one-fifth the depth of the timber, is a safe rule to cut to.
Care must be taken not to run the saw out any deeper so as to make a weak spot where the timber may split when bent. The scarf is first marked out on the timber and is then sawed out on a band saw or circular saw. If neither is available a 5-foot or 6-foot crosscut saw may be used and several saw cuts made and the chunks of wood spilled, chopped, or dubbed out with a broadaxe. The timber is then trimmed or dubbed off. carefully to the line on the face or working side of the timber with an adz. The remaining wood is then worked off, using the carpenter’s square frequently to see that too much is not cut away. The face of the scarf is finished off with a plane so that the carpenter^s square fits perfectly on its face when applied at various points across it.
There are several kinds of scarfs; the plain scarf, flat scarf, hook scarf, lock scarf, etc. The plain and flat scarf are the ones most commonly used and the hook scarf comes next. The lock scarf has an opening in which is driven an oak wedge or key for the purpose of keying and setting the ends of the scarf tightly together. The keel scarf with tenons is a combination of the plain and hook scarf and is more difficult to cut and fit. To prevent pulling apart short wooden pins, called dowels, fitted vertically in the face of the scarf, were formerly used, but nowadays the more common practice is to bore across at the seam where the two faces meet and drive in treenails, long wooden pins about the size and shape of broom handles and usually made of locust wood. Sometimes a better fit can be obtained by running a cross-cut saw through the joint. When the surfaces fit perfectly with their nibs or ends pushed tightly together by means of a jack at one end, they are either clamped together with big iron screw clamps or are wrapped with chains with wedges driven between the chains and the timber so as to draw the wood tightly together.
Vertical holes are bored and iron or steel clinched fastenings and treenails are driven by the use of compressed air tools — air drills and air hammers. In some yards, electric drills are used. Where air or electric tools are not provided the holes are bored with hand augers and the dowels and treenails are driven by sledgehammers.
 
Hello, Don! Unless you are building the exact copy model of the real ship, you should research and refer to the drafts or plans using to build your model. Also, how about the length of the scarf or the deepness of the cut of it, as well as what type of scarf has been used? You will need to take care of those as well for the authentic representation ;) But wait...The hull planking doesn't scarf (unless it is a wale), they are butted.

From Charles G. Davis notes in his book The Building of a Wooden Ship:

Scarfing timbers together is one of the most important processes in wooden shipbuilding and deserves a detailed explanation.
The length of the scarf is shown in the plans or specifications and is usually given to the workmen by the foreman who lays out the work. The foreman also tells the workmen the depth to make the pointed end or nib, as it is called, but if he does not, 23 percent, or about one-fifth the depth of the timber, is a safe rule to cut to.
Care must be taken not to run the saw out any deeper so as to make a weak spot where the timber may split when bent. The scarf is first marked out on the timber and is then sawed out on a band saw or circular saw. If neither is available a 5-foot or 6-foot crosscut saw may be used and several saw cuts made and the chunks of wood spilled, chopped, or dubbed out with a broadaxe. The timber is then trimmed or dubbed off. carefully to the line on the face or working side of the timber with an adz. The remaining wood is then worked off, using the carpenter’s square frequently to see that too much is not cut away. The face of the scarf is finished off with a plane so that the carpenter^s square fits perfectly on its face when applied at various points across it.
There are several kinds of scarfs; the plain scarf, flat scarf, hook scarf, lock scarf, etc. The plain and flat scarf are the ones most commonly used and the hook scarf comes next. The lock scarf has an opening in which is driven an oak wedge or key for the purpose of keying and setting the ends of the scarf tightly together. The keel scarf with tenons is a combination of the plain and hook scarf and is more difficult to cut and fit. To prevent pulling apart short wooden pins, called dowels, fitted vertically in the face of the scarf, were formerly used, but nowadays the more common practice is to bore across at the seam where the two faces meet and drive in treenails, long wooden pins about the size and shape of broom handles and usually made of locust wood. Sometimes a better fit can be obtained by running a cross-cut saw through the joint. When the surfaces fit perfectly with their nibs or ends pushed tightly together by means of a jack at one end, they are either clamped together with big iron screw clamps or are wrapped with chains with wedges driven between the chains and the timber so as to draw the wood tightly together.
Vertical holes are bored and iron or steel clinched fastenings and treenails are driven by the use of compressed air tools — air drills and air hammers. In some yards, electric drills are used. Where air or electric tools are not provided the holes are bored with hand augers and the dowels and treenails are driven by sledgehammers.
Finding the nationality of the ship and years that are under consideration for proper hull scarfs as stated is essential. Upon scanning a newly received book, Wooden Ship The Building and The Interpretation of Shipwrecks, J. Richard Steffy, has multiple references and drawings/diagrams from the very ancient Egyptian Royal Ship of Cheope showing scarfs of various types in both directions, up through the Bronze Ages as found in recovered and analyzed wrecks, up to pre-Classical followed by Mideaval vessels to ships a couple of centuries ago. Perpendicular ends, diagonal straight overlaying scarfs, shallow S-curved to strong S-curved scarfs are shown and in various directions. Seeing this book in the Bookshelf thread and presenting what I was looking for I bought a paperback copy on line through Amazon for a reasonable price and it arrived in an unused perfect condition. It is a very informative and well illustrated resource. Rich (PT-2)
 
Thanks for the answers guys. I'm actually working on the spirtketting. I made one real hooked scarf and two fake ones. I did one side with them all facing the same way and when I did the other side I faced the fake ones the wrong way. Brain fade I guess. This was after two days of bending and letting dry the strakes so I wasn't about to start over. Fortunately it is on the lower deck and will be planked in so no one will ever see it but I'll always know about the stupid mistake. Unfortunately there are many of these. Hopefully by the time I get to the upper(visible) deck I will have all the stupidness worked out :) :)
 
Thanks for the answers guys. I'm actually working on the spirtketting. I made one real hooked scarf and two fake ones. I did one side with them all facing the same way and when I did the other side I faced the fake ones the wrong way. Brain fade I guess. This was after two days of bending and letting dry the strakes so I wasn't about to start over. Fortunately it is on the lower deck and will be planked in so no one will ever see it but I'll always know about the stupid mistake. Unfortunately there are many of these. Hopefully by the time I get to the upper(visible) deck I will have all the stupidness worked out :) :)
Don't worry about repeating or creating new mistakes . .. it happens more often than I would like to admit. Slow and patient with double checking are two things that I skip by at times to my own peril. Rich (PT-2)
 
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