Scratchbuild Creole Queen

[Ferd]

Cut out hub(s) and rim(s) as required for your wheel. I used 1mm styrene, but it could be 2mm styrene, plywood or other strong, thin, light material. My hub was 32mm in diameter with a hole in the center for the shaft. The rim was 88mm inside diameter and 94mm on the outside. For 1mm styrene it is possible to use a hobby knife, a circle cutter or even scissors. Being new to a CNC router, I managed to cut these parts after designing a simple file of the items. The whole wheel could be done on a router but I lack the experience to design it.

For the spokes I used 2mm square styrene rods. Cut them about a mm or two longer than the actual spoke length (the outer circle drawn on the print). I glued them one at a time to end up with twelve 2mm x 4mm spokes, using CA (super glue). (I found Testor’s plastic model cement not as good as CA). If you have 2mm styrene sheets these could be cut into 4mm strips for the same result. One end of each glued-up spoke should be cut or sanded just enough to make the end square.

 

[Ferd]

Take each spoke, one at a time, and lay it in position on the printed wheel with the trimmed cut end outwards. Mark an angle at the center where it can be cut to fit tightly to the next spoke and up to the center. The center will have a hole for the paddlewheel shaft, so do not obstruct that hole with spokes.

Now place the hub and rim exactly over the wheel picture and tape them in place, but only around half of their circumferences. Lay one spoke in place to see where glue is needed, then glue it. I use just a drop of CA at the hub and another on the rim. Spokes were glued and pressed in place, one at a time. Seconds later they were well cemented, and I continued to the next till all 12 spokes were glued.

 

[Ferd]

Turn the assembly over and glue another hub and rim on the other side to strengthen the wheel. My paddlewheel seemed very solid but I have not tested it in water yet. For extra strength, short pieces of styrene/wood/toothpicks could be glued in the spaces between the rims.

I will be sliding the wheels onto a solid aluminum shaft, with a pin going through the shaft at each wheel location. Those pins will be glued to the wheels to prevent them from spinning on the shaft. Then the floats/paddles will be glued onto the ends of the spokes, again using CA. 2mm styrene or plywood may be a good choice for the floats.

I have not tried this paddle wheel as the rest of the boat is still under construction. Besides, our ponds are all frozen at this time of the year. I hope this build log will be of some help to others someday. Feel free to comment on these procedures – any additions, corrections, etc. would be appreciated.

Fred

 

[Boulderboater]

Turn the assembly over and glue another hub and rim on the other side to strengthen the wheel. My paddlewheel seemed very solid but I have not tested it in water yet. For extra strength, short pieces of styrene/wood/toothpicks could be glued in the spaces between the rims.

I will be sliding the wheels onto a solid aluminum shaft, with a pin going through the shaft at each wheel location. Those pins will be glued to the wheels to prevent them from spinning on the shaft. Then the floats/paddles will be glued onto the ends of the spokes, again using CA. 2mm styrene or plywood may be a good choice for the floats.

I have not tried this paddle wheel as the rest of the boat is still under construction. Besides, our ponds are all frozen at this time of the year. I hope this build log will be of some help to others someday. Feel free to comment on these procedures – any additions, corrections, etc. would be appreciated.

Fred

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[Boulderboater]

Seems terribly laborious if you can use a CNC machine. I can make the wheels in single piece, and glue 2 together for strength if necessary. Also that styrene will likely buckle if you take it to the lake on a warm day. You don't say the scale/size of you model but if only for display should be OK.

 

[Ferd]

Yes, it was laborious, but I am new to CNC and CAD and never worked with styrene either. The first wheel involved some trial and error (lots of error) but the additional ones were much easier. If one does not have a CNC router, they would need some way to scratch-build these things. I simplified the layout with only 12 spokes instead of 16 and a single rim. I wasn't too concerned about scale. If it melts/warps in the sun, I will likely attempt a full CNC wheel like yours and try a better material. By that time, I may have a better handle on using the router. The scale is 1:48.

 

[Boulderboater]

Hi Fred,
I'm not quite happy with my results.I have given up on the paddle wheels for now, and will do them last when I have the CNC better under control. Still making progress on the stair cases ! ! ! What a chore! I have got about 70 LEDs in place.

 

[Ferd]

That's quite the control panel. And your stairs look great, too. What are they made of?
I have been busy with other RC boats, but I got the wheel completed. All the mechanics are temporarily mounted so that they are operational.
Rudders are made but will be installed later. I am just getting started making the main deck walls and preparing to CNC the windows in them.

 

[Ferd]

Hi Paul,
My Creole Queen will be used primarily for Radio Control on small ponds rather than a display model. Therefore, I may not install LEDs, at least for now.
Also, I am deviating here and there from the original Dumas plans.

As you can see, I have simplified the paddlewheel by reducing the number of spokes/floats and also the number of wheels. Since the rudders in front of the wheel are not in the wash of the paddles, they will have a difficult time moving the stern sideways when steering. I reduced these rudders to 2 instead of 3, but I have added a 3rd rudder near the bow to act like a bow thruster. This idea worked well for another builder (I have forgotten the name).

In the next phase of building, I will make the main deck walls per the plan, using 1/16" plywood. The walls for the remaining decks will likely be balsa to keep the weight down. Extra reinforcement may be necessary.

Fred

 

[Boulderboater]

Hi Paul,
My Creole Queen will be used primarily for Radio Control on small ponds rather than a display model. Therefore, I may not install LEDs, at least for now.
Also, I am deviating here and there from the original Dumas plans.

As you can see, I have simplified the paddlewheel by reducing the number of spokes/floats and also the number of wheels. Since the rudders in front of the wheel are not in the wash of the paddles, they will have a difficult time moving the stern sideways when steering. I reduced these rudders to 2 instead of 3, but I have added a 3rd rudder near the bow to act like a bow thruster. This idea worked well for another builder (I have forgotten the name).

In the next phase of building, I will make the main deck walls per the plan, using 1/16" plywood. The walls for the remaining decks will likely be balsa to keep the weight down. Extra reinforcement may be necessary.

Fred

Mine will also be for RC, and lots of (older) watchers of my boats have said they like the lights but have a job seeing them. This boat will have LOTS of lights so should be easily visible on our pond. Even 100 or so leds doesn't shorten battery life too much.

 

[Boulderboater]

I'm working my way up the decks, got the front staircases on. I'm not very happy with them, but they will stay. I moved them back a bit to line up with the front skylight deck edge. There are just way tooo many pillars -I've spent so much time cutting, aligning, gluing and painting them! Now on to the skylight deck 'houses'. I intend to make them accessible from above to get access to light switches inside. I'll need a higher than 12v converter to power all the searchlights and nav. lights and a 3v converter for more small lights in the skylight area.

 

[Boulderboater]

Fred,
The stairs are made from 1/16 side strips and 1/32 treads. Really time-consuming and tricky to keep in line. I would redo them if was really motivated, but they are not closely visible, so I doubt anyone will notice. I made a jig to hold the treads to the sides at the correct angle when gluing, but the still did not look very good, and took forever. Oh well!

Hi Paul,
My Creole Queen will be used primarily for Radio Control on small ponds rather than a display model. Therefore, I may not install LEDs, at least for now.
Also, I am deviating here and there from the original Dumas plans.

As you can see, I have simplified the paddlewheel by reducing the number of spokes/floats and also the number of wheels. Since the rudders in front of the wheel are not in the wash of the paddles, they will have a difficult time moving the stern sideways when steering. I reduced these rudders to 2 instead of 3, but I have added a 3rd rudder near the bow to act like a bow thruster. This idea worked well for another builder (I have forgotten the name).

In the next phase of building, I will make the main deck walls per the plan, using 1/16" plywood. The walls for the remaining decks will likely be balsa to keep the weight down. Extra reinforcement may be necessary.

Fred

Fred, yes, I have been using 3/32 basswood for walls without other support, and that worked out fine. But for Skylight deck and pilot house deck I went to Foam board, hoping to keep the weight down a bit. All the handrails I am making from wood, not metal for same reason. However the size is very small - .060" by .040" (or less) strips are hard to cut and glue. Only Titebond seems to cope, even super glues are too tricky. Once I have the Pilot House deck done, I will make the house itself removable to get access to wiring ans dc/dc converter if ever needed.