1. At a scale of 1/48, actual rigging lines of 1/2 to 3/4 inch would be model rigging lines of 0.0104 inch to 0.0156 inch in diameter. A single strand of one of these three strand right hand model lines would be 0.0052 inch and 0.0078inch in diameter. Attempting to put a short splice into one of these model rigging lines is pretty much impossible; that is why no one even attempts to do it.
2. Stockholm Tar was the tar used on sailing ships. You can still buy a quart of it from Amazon for about 20 bucks. Dilute it and it should work fine (and last for a hundred years worth of rigging) on model rigging servings. Otherwise, try Liquitex Artists Matte Varnish available from artists supply stores and/or Amazon; 16 ounces (for 16 bucks) will last a decade or two.
3. An article covering model splicing, seizing and serving was published about 6 or 7 years ago in the NRJ (with an update about 2 years ago). Together, they cover the subject of seizing, serving and splicing in minute detail. Practically , it covers all you will ever need to know to rig anything.
4. CYA (actually any glue) used on thread/twine based rigging (synthetic or otherwise) is a disaster. Use it and you will be re-rigging in about another 10 years. It will flake as the lines change shape with variations in temp and humidity.
What you will be left with is dandruff. Read the articles. They cover all this stuff.
5. If you follow the instructions on how to serve, your seizings will have more than enough strength to last forever (or nearly so - in any case you will be gone). All the tools/materials you will need are available from joanns.com (especially Fiskar's SMALL microtip scissors, pins, needles, flexible fabric glue, sewing thread, muslin fabric, etc ) and theflyshop.com (a huge fly tying shop in Oregon. Look at the tools and fly tying thread sections. I use Montana fly tying thread in earth colors). Most stores have both email and paper catalogs; I like paper.
6. Rigging is basically simple. You need a few inexpensive tools, minimal fly tying "silk" (actually not silk at all, but minute diameter synthetic fibers) spools of appropriate colors and some tweezers, scissors and hemostats (from joanns). But, and here is the catch, you need to learn (and practice) how to apply this stuff. Rigging is really an exercise in learning and applying detail. I still have to "get back into the swing of it" every time I start a new rigging job. And, magnification REALLY HELPS (about 7x is VERY useful). There is an old adage that goes, "If you can actually see it, you can probably build it."
2. Stockholm Tar was the tar used on sailing ships. You can still buy a quart of it from Amazon for about 20 bucks. Dilute it and it should work fine (and last for a hundred years worth of rigging) on model rigging servings. Otherwise, try Liquitex Artists Matte Varnish available from artists supply stores and/or Amazon; 16 ounces (for 16 bucks) will last a decade or two.
3. An article covering model splicing, seizing and serving was published about 6 or 7 years ago in the NRJ (with an update about 2 years ago). Together, they cover the subject of seizing, serving and splicing in minute detail. Practically , it covers all you will ever need to know to rig anything.
4. CYA (actually any glue) used on thread/twine based rigging (synthetic or otherwise) is a disaster. Use it and you will be re-rigging in about another 10 years. It will flake as the lines change shape with variations in temp and humidity.
What you will be left with is dandruff. Read the articles. They cover all this stuff.
5. If you follow the instructions on how to serve, your seizings will have more than enough strength to last forever (or nearly so - in any case you will be gone). All the tools/materials you will need are available from joanns.com (especially Fiskar's SMALL microtip scissors, pins, needles, flexible fabric glue, sewing thread, muslin fabric, etc ) and theflyshop.com (a huge fly tying shop in Oregon. Look at the tools and fly tying thread sections. I use Montana fly tying thread in earth colors). Most stores have both email and paper catalogs; I like paper.
6. Rigging is basically simple. You need a few inexpensive tools, minimal fly tying "silk" (actually not silk at all, but minute diameter synthetic fibers) spools of appropriate colors and some tweezers, scissors and hemostats (from joanns). But, and here is the catch, you need to learn (and practice) how to apply this stuff. Rigging is really an exercise in learning and applying detail. I still have to "get back into the swing of it" every time I start a new rigging job. And, magnification REALLY HELPS (about 7x is VERY useful). There is an old adage that goes, "If you can actually see it, you can probably build it."
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