I use #2 in form of highly diluted shellac on white maple wood.
...Actually looking at it again, it is a #3 which I am ending up with after applying a few coats of shellac.
...Actually looking at it again, it is a #3 which I am ending up with after applying a few coats of shellac.
Last edited:
I like #4
WAX GOD BLESS STAY SAFE ALL. DON
how about adjusting the color using wood stains?
I had exclusively negative experience with any wood stains including expensive guitar stains.
have you diluted the stains with poly or using them straight? diluted gives you control over the amount of color and by layering coats for deeper color allows a very fine adjustment.
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2024
- Messages
- 261
- Points
- 138
I my time in the furniture business I got to know a polisher of huge experience and great skill. He could french polish with shellac and a rubber (rag) or spray polish with cellulose, or paint and apply decorative finishes and fake wood grain. His long-practised Rio Rosewood imitation was a work of art.
But to get the point, the only colours he ever used were aniline powder colours dissolved in alcohol. He chose them for their brilliance and transparency. I have no cnnection with the suppliers linked below.
www.internationalviolin.com
www.jpennyltd.co.uk
But to get the point, the only colours he ever used were aniline powder colours dissolved in alcohol. He chose them for their brilliance and transparency. I have no cnnection with the suppliers linked below.
Aniline Dye Powder, Spirit, Select Color
Aniline Dye Powder, Spirit, Select Color
www.internationalviolin.com
Spirit Powder Dyes
Dry powder formulations that will dissolve in alcohol based products, including methylated spirit, French polish and shellac sealers.Use in small quantities to create tinted French polishes, invaluable for colour matching and shade toning.
Last edited:
@Alan Smith, a thousand thanks. I was not aware of aniline dye powder. This is something I will try too. It will provide far more option for hull coloring in some model, while retaining the wood finish... may be an alternative to acrylic paint. It is so nice to expand our toolset and know-how. Thanks for the tips and links.
I consistently use matte polyurethane on everything. I do not use any of the other mentioned products. My go-too product is water based MinWax matte (or flat) sheen polyurethane…both as a protective coating and a finish coating. Always…
I kind of like the aged look myself but after reading your post and looking for Bitumen of Judea it appears finding some in the US is impossible. I have been playing with aniline dye with ok results so I probably don’t need to find Bitumen. Curious where you got yours though.
The finish selection will be based on where (section, part) you will be applying it and what type of looking you want. Let say, a perfect clean wood model or an aged wood model. A perfect clean deck or a used deck.... and so on.
It's your decision how you want your model looks. I like all those finish...... depending on what you want to achieve with your model.
@OlivierF greeting Oliver... I got the Bitumen of Judea from Am@zon, brand: Colorare
@Dematosdg, indeed that a great observation... I'm like you, I like them all. I still have to do few tests with the application of Bitumen. The one in the picture was applied after a layer of wax and then finish again with wax. I was not sure if bitumen dissolved in turpentine would affect the shellac finish.
What I did: apply a wax coat (renaissance wax), then apply with a brush a suspension of bitumen in turpentine, and finally wax again once dry.
I'm sure there must be a better way to apply consistently... Tried melting the wax and mixing with bitumen (in turpentine) bring the wax as hard as rock.
What I did: apply a wax coat (renaissance wax), then apply with a brush a suspension of bitumen in turpentine, and finally wax again once dry.
I'm sure there must be a better way to apply consistently... Tried melting the wax and mixing with bitumen (in turpentine) bring the wax as hard as rock.
Thank You! I guess I didn’t search closely enough. I may get some just to have on hand…
Will your ship be all boxwood, as in the test ?
Probably not. So then, you will need to do the test for every diferent wood you will use. Has that sense ?
I have stains and oils. Depending on what I want to achieve I do a fast test on a small scrap piece of the wood with the stain or oil I think will provide the look I want to achieve.
Most of the time I use clear Shellac. Just that. Will bring the wood color alive and will mask any glue spot (stains will highlight them, because the stain can't penetrate). If I want to age the wood, I test the stains or oils. Simple as that. Moreover, the shellac dry in minutes and I can continue working.
Just my 2 cents.
Daniel
Last edited:
@Dematosdg, thanks for the tips... as you can see, I'm a little new to the intricacies of wood finish. A lot to learn, I just wanted to check before committing on a 3–12-month build. Pre-testing is indeed the way to go but sometime, you still have surprise (or miss-judge) the final results.
The model is indeed the boxwood version of the 1:96 Enterprize. However, it is still a long way down (have not started yet). I'm still working on the rigging of the HMS Revenge, which is now overdue by 6 months, and likely few more till completion. My first rigging, so it is a little slow. That ok, not on a timer anymore.
I was looking at shellac to potentially bring the brownish coloration up... However, the original tint (with matte poly and/or clear shellac) is still very likely... a very gentle and clean look. I don't have to decide now, thought. All still up in the air.
The model is indeed the boxwood version of the 1:96 Enterprize. However, it is still a long way down (have not started yet). I'm still working on the rigging of the HMS Revenge, which is now overdue by 6 months, and likely few more till completion. My first rigging, so it is a little slow. That ok, not on a timer anymore.
I was looking at shellac to potentially bring the brownish coloration up... However, the original tint (with matte poly and/or clear shellac) is still very likely... a very gentle and clean look. I don't have to decide now, thought. All still up in the air.
Last edited: