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Shroud progress

Joined
Aug 26, 2020
Messages
61
Points
78

Location
UK Dorset
I have completed the stage of creating the Mary Rose foremast starboard shrouds on a jig.
Ratline knots
in the lowest part of the shrouds I used the approved clove hitches for all knots.
In the mid section, where the shrouds were getting a bit closer together, I used clove hitches at the end of each ratline
but simple overhand knots in between.
Higher still I only knotted the end of the ratlines and 'wove' them through the intermediate shrouds.
This seems a bit primitive but the shroud/ratline contacts are so close together that it seems to work.
I sealed the end knots on each ratline with a spot of glue but not the others. I shall perform final straightening of
the unglued knots when the whole fixed to the model.
That is also when l shall complete the ratlines at the top and I know the final spacings and lengths.
Widgets
I fixed the fine needle that I use for controlling the final tightening of the knots into a piece of dowel
This makes it easier to pick up and manipulate. (and find!)
The mini 'chain plate' at the top is merely to retain the identities of the individual shrouds so that I know
which loose end to pull if a shroud goes limp.
The bent leedle was used for passing a ratline thread under a given shroud as an alternative to pushing the
end under and retrieving it with tweezers. This was only a marginal gain.
I have included the lower clamp in the picture below to show how it is constructed
Next
When I have removed and stored the starboard shrouds I shall turn over the dummy chain plate at the bottom,
reposition the upper clamp and start over with the port shrouds.
I must create a long Spotify playlist. (Sea Shanties?)
Rig (4).jpg
 
Joined
Aug 26, 2020
Messages
61
Points
78

Location
UK Dorset
Yes, I did a bit of that on the OcCre models I built. Their thread is untreated and therefore softer than the Caldercraft stuff.
The ratline cord was thin enough to thread the eye of a very fine needle and thence through the shrouds..
The Caldercraft thread is coated with something that makes it irritatingly stiff and springy.
It doesn't double back on itself very well and is hard to get a needle through - even if you manage to thread a very fine one with ratline.
I am using the remains of the generous supply of OcCre 'natural hemp' for my Mary Rose deadeye lanyards.
I prefer both its colour and texture.
 
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