- Joined
- May 17, 2022
- Messages
- 126
- Points
- 78
Is the steam generator a wallpaper stripper it looks like one ?
Hi Don,
I tried PVC and the temperature was a problem, PVC starts to move around at about 60 deg C, I ended up with a piece of metal down pipe that I wrap in an old towel to provide some insulation. Nothing fancy but it works.
Cheers,
Stephen.
It is the same type used for wallpaper steaming w/o the wallpaper specific tools.
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2020
- Messages
- 1,942
- Points
- 488
Hi,
Small question for you, How much time do you have to bend the wood, after you remove it from the steamer?
Small question for you, How much time do you have to bend the wood, after you remove it from the steamer?
Steaming depends on the thickness of the wood. Thin wood(like planking) takes seconds to heat up and seconds to cool off. I sometimes think that it cools off so fast that you would be just as far ahead to just wet the wood. Thicker wood holds the heat better. At around 1" thick you have a few minutes to bend it. For planking I think that dipping the plank in water and then hitting it with a hot(cotton setting) iron works just as well. You're bending it while it's hot. That said heat by itself will bend thin wood so maybe the steam isn't even necessary. I have bent quite a bit of planking with just a hot air gun. It has the advantage of not having to wait for the wood to dry.
Disclaimer-My experience steaming stuff for model ships is limited to the Hazel wood that I'm using for my build and Hazel bends like a dream so my results may be skewed. I do have years of experience steaming thicker wood when I was making bows though.
Disclaimer-My experience steaming stuff for model ships is limited to the Hazel wood that I'm using for my build and Hazel bends like a dream so my results may be skewed. I do have years of experience steaming thicker wood when I was making bows though.
Just purchased this Bending Iron from StewMac in Ohio, USA
www.stewmac.com
I believe the primary use for these is Luthier's.
I have some wide 1.5"x 1.5mm thick Walnut that I need to bend, and this appeared to be just the tool.
The aluminum mandrel is approx. 6-1/4" long with two different bending radii's, 7/8" & 3/8"
The mandrel is solidly mounted on a block of wood which also houses the controller
The unit is VERY robust and has to be clamped to the bench for use.
The recommended temperature for bending is 300-350 deg's F
It does take a fair amount of time to come up to temperature because of the mass of the aluminum mandrel.
I was quite pleased with the results on test pieces. I did not soak the walnut instead just spritzed it with water.
After trying this out I believe it will be my go-to tool for bending hull planking.
Highly recommended 
as the water turns to steam rather quickly.
They also have a stainless-steel bending strap which I will be purchasing. That should aide in the forming of the end of the piece.
(Without burning fingertips)
www.stewmac.com
I believe the primary use for these is Luthier's.
I have some wide 1.5"x 1.5mm thick Walnut that I need to bend, and this appeared to be just the tool.
The aluminum mandrel is approx. 6-1/4" long with two different bending radii's, 7/8" & 3/8"
The mandrel is solidly mounted on a block of wood which also houses the controller
The unit is VERY robust and has to be clamped to the bench for use.
The recommended temperature for bending is 300-350 deg's F
It does take a fair amount of time to come up to temperature because of the mass of the aluminum mandrel.
I was quite pleased with the results on test pieces. I did not soak the walnut instead just spritzed it with water.
After trying this out I believe it will be my go-to tool for bending hull planking.
Highly recommended 
as the water turns to steam rather quickly.They also have a stainless-steel bending strap which I will be purchasing. That should aide in the forming of the end of the piece.
(Without burning fingertips)
Had a chance to try out my new bending iron.
This was a piece of walnut 1-1/2" wide x 2mm thick.
With regards to the bender, size matters 
I did not soak the material rather just spritzed it with water just prior to bending. Bending was a breeze and after the bend there was no need to clamp the piece in any type of form as it dried very quickly during the bending process. The water turns to steam almost as soon as it contacts the aluminum mandrel thereby drying and holding its shape.
What's really nice is, as the bending iron is clamped to the bench freeing up both hands to complete the bending process. I find that this is preferred to holding a soldering iron type bender with one hand and the piece to be bent with the other hand while heating and forming around or into some type of mold or curved surface.
I also tried bending some 1/32" aircraft ply with the same results. As soaking the wood was not required there was no delamination of the wood plies.
Anyone forming wide plywood bulwarks would find this tool is ideal.
I also formed some smaller planks 6mm x 1.5 mm with the same results. No more soaking, bending and clamping in place to dry for me.
I know the unit is pricey, but you get what you pay for. IMHO
The only downside to this unit is it takes a long time to come up to temperature (About 30 minutes to reach 300 degrees F.) due to the mass of aluminum. The upside is it doesn't cool down like some of the smaller irons do.
Oh yes, did I say to wear an insulated glove on one hand?
Don't ask how I came to that conclusion.
This was a piece of walnut 1-1/2" wide x 2mm thick.
With regards to the bender, size matters 
I did not soak the material rather just spritzed it with water just prior to bending. Bending was a breeze and after the bend there was no need to clamp the piece in any type of form as it dried very quickly during the bending process. The water turns to steam almost as soon as it contacts the aluminum mandrel thereby drying and holding its shape.
What's really nice is, as the bending iron is clamped to the bench freeing up both hands to complete the bending process. I find that this is preferred to holding a soldering iron type bender with one hand and the piece to be bent with the other hand while heating and forming around or into some type of mold or curved surface.
I also tried bending some 1/32" aircraft ply with the same results. As soaking the wood was not required there was no delamination of the wood plies.
Anyone forming wide plywood bulwarks would find this tool is ideal.
I also formed some smaller planks 6mm x 1.5 mm with the same results. No more soaking, bending and clamping in place to dry for me.
I know the unit is pricey, but you get what you pay for. IMHO
The only downside to this unit is it takes a long time to come up to temperature (About 30 minutes to reach 300 degrees F.) due to the mass of aluminum. The upside is it doesn't cool down like some of the smaller irons do.
Oh yes, did I say to wear an insulated glove on one hand?
Don't ask how I came to that conclusion.
Very good to get from first hand a report about using this tool.Had a chance to try out my new bending iron.
This was a piece of walnut 1-1/2" wide x 2mm thick.
With regards to the bender, size matters 
I did not soak the material rather just spritzed it with water just prior to bending. Bending was a breeze and after the bend there was no need to clamp the piece in any type of form as it dried very quickly during the bending process. The water turns to steam almost as soon as it contacts the aluminum mandrel thereby drying and holding its shape.
What's really nice is, as the bending iron is clamped to the bench freeing up both hands to complete the bending process. I find that this is preferred to holding a soldering iron type bender with one hand and the piece to be bent with the other hand while heating and forming around or into some type of mold or curved surface.
I also tried bending some 1/32" aircraft ply with the same results. As soaking the wood was not required there was no delamination of the wood plies.
Anyone forming wide plywood bulwarks would find this tool is ideal.
I also formed some smaller planks 6mm x 1.5 mm with the same results. No more soaking, bending and clamping in place to dry for me.
I know the unit is pricey, but you get what you pay for. IMHO
The only downside to this unit is it takes a long time to come up to temperature (About 30 minutes to reach 300 degrees F.) due to the mass of aluminum. The upside is it doesn't cool down like some of the smaller irons do.
Oh yes, did I say to wear an insulated glove on one hand?
View attachment 317358
Now it is clear for me, that I will order one of these
Thats a great steam box ! I have to build one too.
ABOUT 3 WEEKS AGO I GOT A LUTHERERS BENDING IRON LIKE BTHE STEW MAC ONE ONLY IT WAS $100.00 COMPARED TO $237.00 STILL PRACTING WITH MINE SEEMSW TO WORK OK SO FAR MORE AFTER TESTING WITH DIFFERENT WOODS AND THICKNESS GOT IT ON AMOZON. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE ALL DON
I saw those that are listed on Amazon however, I decided on going with the StewMac unit. It appears to be more robust and the manufacturer is here in the states and their products have a good reputation.
Ron
YES I HAVE BOUGHT QUITE A FEW ITEMS FROM STW MACK I HAVE THE LUTHERES BEST FRIEND THICKNESS SANDER 1/2 THE PRICE OF THE OTHERS WORKS EXTREMLY WELL, THE REVIEWS ON THIS ONE WAS 4 STARS SO GOT IT ARRIEVED IN LESS THEN A WEEK. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE ALL DON
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2024
- Messages
- 68
- Points
- 88
Thank you! I was going to design something similar using a wallpaper steamer, but I really like the thought you have put into your design. I have already bought the steamer (Home Depot has a large one with a 90 minute run time), but was in decision paralysis about the box design, I am going to replicate what have done with your permission.
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2024
- Messages
- 706
- Points
- 298
After moving to canoe country, NE Minnesota, I was given a dilapidated wood Canvas canoe, aka Old Town type. I went to restore/rebuild a total of four of these beautiful antique watercraft. Anyone attempting to work on these boats must master the art of steam bending. The closely spaced ribs; canoes have ribs not frames, are steam bent 3”x 5/16” white cedar and some of the the 3/16” white cedar planking also must be steam bent.
It’s not nearly as difficult as it appears! My first setup used a camp stove as a heat source. While this worked fine, I wanted to be able to steam wood indoors. A Weber electric wallpaper steamer proved to be an ideal heat source. (Festool now makes a look alike steam generator marked to the boatbuilding trade for several times the cost)
The only real requirement for the steam box is the ability to withstand the heat of boiling water; 212F (100C). PVC pipe won’t although I have used it for a one off job. My steam box was four pieces of red cedar with a piece nailed over one end and a hinged door on the other. Leakproof joints are unnecessary and possibly dangerous as they can cause pressure buildup. A drain (3/8” hole) should be drilled in the far end and the box sloped slightly. That’s it! Thermometers or monomers are unnecessary as steam temperature is what it is coming from the steam generator and the box should leak enough to prevent pressure buildup.
A pair of barbecue tongs are useful for removing hot wood from the box. I would be very careful of gloves as you can get a bad burn if steam penetrates the fabric.
BTW, for small model ship parts, your wife’s microwave works fine.
Don’t overthink this easy technique.
Roger
It’s not nearly as difficult as it appears! My first setup used a camp stove as a heat source. While this worked fine, I wanted to be able to steam wood indoors. A Weber electric wallpaper steamer proved to be an ideal heat source. (Festool now makes a look alike steam generator marked to the boatbuilding trade for several times the cost)
The only real requirement for the steam box is the ability to withstand the heat of boiling water; 212F (100C). PVC pipe won’t although I have used it for a one off job. My steam box was four pieces of red cedar with a piece nailed over one end and a hinged door on the other. Leakproof joints are unnecessary and possibly dangerous as they can cause pressure buildup. A drain (3/8” hole) should be drilled in the far end and the box sloped slightly. That’s it! Thermometers or monomers are unnecessary as steam temperature is what it is coming from the steam generator and the box should leak enough to prevent pressure buildup.
A pair of barbecue tongs are useful for removing hot wood from the box. I would be very careful of gloves as you can get a bad burn if steam penetrates the fabric.
BTW, for small model ship parts, your wife’s microwave works fine.
Don’t overthink this easy technique.
Roger