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Sopwith Camel – modified Atesania 1:16 – fully functional –

Yes, I'm afraid it was moveable and it doesn't look much like the Artesania one. I will try and get a picture of mine if you like ?
Thanks! That would be very nice to see some pictures so I can see how the mechanism is on that version of the aircraft.
 
I tried really hard to get some pictures but without much success. The top of the mechanism has a very strong 'bungee' at the top which attached to the frame. The bottom/middle part is bound to the frame with cord quite tightly but, with the bungee allows for a small amount of up and down movement. I hope that helps.

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I tried really hard to get some pictures but without much success. The top of the mechanism has a very strong 'bungee' at the top which attached to the frame. The bottom/middle part is bound to the frame with cord quite tightly but, with the bungee allows for a small amount of up and down movement. I hope that helps.

View attachment 502308

View attachment 502309
Thanks for the images.
 
Here is a comparison of the original photoetched and the new (painted) central lower part of the fuselage, which serves as a conduit for all the cables that control the rudder and elevator.

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I made a slight modification to the fuselage to accommodate the new control stick mechanism. Specifically, I removed material from the L1A wooden piece (as indicated by the dashed lines in the image below) and replaced it with a T-shaped part designed to hold the horizontal axis of the new control stick.

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In the Artesania kit, all control surfaces—including the ailerons, rudder, and elevator—are fixed in place and cannot pivot as they should. To achieve proper movement, I needed to modify the design and implement a functional hinging mechanism.
Also, all the wires (threads) that command the motion of ailerons, rudder, and elevator should be fully functional.

The original pulleys in the wings of the Artesania model, which are supposed to transmit control at approximately a right angle, are completely non-functional and need to be replaced.
Below is an overview of how Artesania’s stock pulleys are constructed. They are made from photo-etched parts and have dimensions of approximately 6.2 x 6.3 mm. My goal is to find fully functional pulleys with similar dimensions to fit within the dedicated space in the wings.

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After researching alternatives, I found a suitable pulley system from Amati. The Amati pulleys feature a frame made of photo-etched brass, with both the pulley wheel and the axis also crafted from brass. However, the overall dimensions of these pulleys were slightly larger than the Artesania ones, requiring some modifications to fit properly within the wing's designated space.

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One key issue was the diameter of the brass pulley wheels. The stock Amati pulleys come with a 6 mm diameter wheel, which was too large for my needs. To resolve this, I replaced them with 5 mm diameter pulleys, ensuring a better fit while maintaining full functionality.

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Here is the new pulley in place in the wing.

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this is your wire for your rigging. This stuff is going to last,,, and it normally has a breaking strength in the 20-50 psi range. Its strong enough that the Federal level requires you to use break away clasp connectors when making jewelry with it for children. That anti choking thing.

May not be scale, but these options are 7 strands and you could try to do a real eye splice if you can see stuff that small.

And its an option for modern working ships that i havent seen discussed on a modeling forum before.
 


this is your wire for your rigging. This stuff is going to last,,, and it normally has a breaking strength in the 20-50 psi range. Its strong enough that the Federal level requires you to use break away clasp connectors when making jewelry with it for children. That anti choking thing.

May not be scale, but these options are 7 strands and you could try to do a real eye splice if you can see stuff that small.

And its an option for modern working ships that i havent seen discussed on a modeling forum before.
I’ve found that the black plastic/nylon threads provided by Artesania for simulating the control cables are too elastic and fragile. I’ve tested a material that’s much less stretchy and much more resistant to tension, but I’m still exploring other options. The one you’re suggesting could be a strong contender. I need to consider factors like low elasticity, high tensile strength, minimal thread diameter, and low rigidity.
 
Would fishing line be any good? Also I have found 'Gutterman' extra strong thread (available though Amazon) to be invaluable for rigging. It is very strong and doesn't stretch. Not too thick either so that might work.
 
I’ve found that the black plastic/nylon threads provided by Artesania for simulating the control cables are too elastic and fragile. I’ve tested a material that’s much less stretchy and much more resistant to tension, but I’m still exploring other options. The one you’re suggesting could be a strong contender. I need to consider factors like low elasticity, high tensile strength, minimal thread diameter, and low rigidity.
go to the beadelon website, they have a 49 strand version that comes as small as .38mm that has the bestest flexibility.
 
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