Splicing - an alternative solution

Gentlemen, let me make something clear. I am not the author of this article, and I noted this at the beginning. Therefore, you can always contact the author and express your gratitude to him, as well as ask your questions, using the two links that I left at the top. My contribution here is very small - I only sacrificed my time in order to obtain permission from the author, and when it was given, I copied the text and downloaded photographs to paste them here.
 
View attachment 450917All that remains is the adhesive fixation to prevent the braid from opening.

The whole thing is quite "stable" and cannot be pulled back on so easily, but the cut end at the last hole could slip out.

I don't like using superglue because it remains visible after it dries, as you can clearly see in the picture.

Various tests have shown that thin-viscosity glue (1) in particular produces this typical plastic effect; if necessary, medium-viscosity glue (2) or thick-viscosity glue (3) is the better alternative.

I like to use silk-matt nitrocellulose varnish such as Clou Ballenmattierung , diluted 1:1.

This way of securing ropes and knots against unraveling is invisible and not as noticeable as superglue.

Simply dip the splice with block briefly into the varnish and let it dry.

The two pictures show the section in wet and dried condition.View attachment 450918View attachment 450919View attachment 450920

The type of weaving is clearly visible in a macro shot.

An eye splice and spliced block with a 0.8 mm rope, the rope with the hooks has a diameter of 0.5 mm:View attachment 450921View attachment 450922View attachment 450923At a normal viewing distance, it is hardly noticeable and is the more professional version compared to the banded versions:
View attachment 450924View attachment 450925

With the magnifying glasses mentioned above, a splice with a 0.4 mm model rope is no problem.

Twist the rope slightly against the twist, then the cannula can be easily pierced under a strand.View attachment 450926View attachment 450927View attachment 450928View attachment 450929
Fantastic. Thank you.
"nitrocellulose varnish" this should be emphasised. I've used it for many years. It fixes, stiffens and is easily reversed by diluents including acetone. Keeps fresh and ready to use for many years in a nail varnish bottle whose brush applies the liquid. Spills etc also simple removed with another similar bottle wth diluent.
 
Late to the party here but better late than never. This is one of the best little seminars I have seen with excellent descriptions in words and photos. THANK YOU VERY MUCH for getting permission to share this information. I did a quick search and there are a number of sets available on line at good prices including the ones below that come in about 50 different gages. Thanks again for your posts on this!!!
Allan
https://www.nipro-group.com/en/our-offer/products-services/standard-hypodermic-needle
Needles.jpg
 
Hello colleagues.
I want to introduce you to an interesting article that I found on the Internet. The author of the article is the owner of the website Modellskippers Modellbaublog. The article is published with his permission.
The original in German can be found here:LINK
His blog on Facebook:LINK

SpliceView attachment 450892Splices are used, for example, to repair or extend ropes, or to create a fixed and inseparable eye.

There are different types:

a: Long splice
b: Short splice
c: Eye splice
d: End or back splice.
In a splice, you separate the strands from each other at the end of the rope and intertwine them with the strands of the rope that are lying together, as in these animations:
View attachment 450893View attachment 450894More or less, all you need on the model are eye splices for blocks, thimbles or a fixed eye for other applications.

For a long time I used to attach blocks to the rope with a tackling to create an eye, as I had not yet managed to create satisfactory real splices. It was simply too time-consuming for me and I always gave up in frustration.View attachment 450895View attachment 450896View attachment 450897
At some point I came across a fairly simple solution for creating splices on a small scale in an internet forum. The term "fake splice" started making the rounds.

After further research, I found that it is not a fake at all and that it is certainly justified in everyday maritime use under the name of a ribbon splice, crossed ribbon, makeshift eye or fixed eye.

In KN the term eye splice is explicitly mentioned, with the addition that this type of splice is used for rigging twine and lashings.

It is used in many ways, e.g. as a starting point when putting on a strap, when splicing straps into the loops of a tarpaulin, tackle ropes, nocking straps or block straps.

In contrast to a "real" splice, here it is not the individual strands but the entire end that are put through the rope, making a "model splice" much easier to implementView attachment 450898View attachment 450899
This is how splicing works

For splicing, I make so-called hollow spikes from syringe needles, with different diameters, depending on the rope thickness.

The tip and sides are deburred with a cutting disc and then glued into a handle made from a piece of round wood.View attachment 450900View attachment 450901View attachment 450902I also use magnifying glasses with 2.5 to 3.5 times magnification for this work.

View attachment 450903View attachment 450904View attachment 450905I stick the spiker under a strand, put the end of the rope into the cannula and pull the end through the rope.View attachment 450906View attachment 450907View attachment 450908View attachment 450909View attachment 450910I repeat this twice more.View attachment 450911View attachment 450912View attachment 450913Then I pull on the first stitch to get the right size eye. Finally, I pull the remaining stitches tight, cut off the excess and thus obtain the splice.View attachment 450914View attachment 450915View attachment 450916
Thank you for sharing your method with us. Excellent presentation i will try it at the next possible opportunity
 
Very neat! We use that method of splicing on the schooners where I'm a deckhand - mainly serving lifelines, attaching chafing wraps, etc., using seine twine. I've used it in modeling, but by soaking the end of the line with glue then "sharpening" it to a point(ish), then using that as the needle to form the eye. Doing three penetrations rather than two (in real life) makes the eye invincible. Probably overkill on a model.

But I hadn't thought of splicing directly to model blocks, and I have 80 or so to do in the immediate future. So this was great to find at this time! Thanks much -
 
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