Squaring bulkheads to center keel.

[Philski]

In an effort to easily square the bulkheads during glue-up, I made a little jig to hold them at right angles while the glue dries. I made it from scrap Delrin using the table saw. Why Delrin? Superglue (and others) do not stick to it. And I have a bunch of it too. Drawing line in pencil ensures bulkheads remain truly vertical and a couple of clamps hold it there. The jig straddles the top. Pictures attached.

 

[Donnie]

I thought I would include this info:

Delrin is a trademarked name for acetal resins that are semi-crystalline thermoplastic polymers. This type of material is also known by the abbreviation POM or polyoxymethylene. It has gained popularity since first being introduced to the commercial marketplace in 1960.

If you go to an online store like onlinemetals.com, they will have the plastic listed as ACETAL.

BTW - Nice Tip.

 

[TechTrek]

Would a product like sign foam work as well?

 

[TechTrek]

In an effort to easily square the bulkheads during glue-up, I made a little jig to hold them at right angles while the glue dries. I made it from scrap Delrin using the table saw. Why Delrin? Superglue (and others) do not stick to it. And I have a bunch of it too. Drawing line in pencil ensures bulkheads remain truly vertical and a couple of clamps hold it there. The jig straddles the top. Pictures attached.

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I like this jig idea. Will try on my next build.

 

[Philski]

Would a product like sign foam work as well?

I don't know what sign foam is. You could use a small piece of plywood and wax it with paste wax but it might interfere with some finishes. Another material would be UHMW polyethlyene. (UHMW = ultra high moleculsr weight) you can buy it from many sources.

 

[neptune]

All you need is a small length of 12mm ( 1/2inch ) square wood and glue them into the corner where the bulkhead meets the keel, it not only keeps the joint square but also strengthens the joint,

best regards John.

 

[Philski]

All you need is a small length of 12mm ( 1/2inch ) square wood and glue them into the corner where the bulkhead meets the keel, it not only keeps the joint square but also strengthens the joint,

best regards John.

Yes, there's that. Being my first build and not knowing where everythings going to go, I'll not reinforce corners this time around just to see how it goes together. I also don't want to create issues down the line.

 

[Donnie]

I like philski's idea and in some ways, you are not committed to a stationary block in case something goes wrong. However, I don't want to minimize anyone else's ideas too.

 

[TechTrek]

I don't know what sign foam is. You could use a small piece of plywood and wax it with paste wax but it might interfere with some finishes. Another material would be UHMW polyethlyene. (UHMW = ultra high moleculsr weight) you can buy it from many sources.

Sign foam is a high density foam used on CNC machines for machining 3D signs. Comes in large 4 x 8 foot sheets of various density and thicknesses.

 

[Philski]

I like philski's idea and in some ways, you are not committed to a stationary block in case something goes wrong. However, I don't want to minimize anyone else's ideas too.

You can make them any size, length, width and depth if need be. They don't have to be as big as the one I made. I may make a few - a selection....just an idea because everything I've read said the bulkheads MUST be square to the keel.

 

[Philski]

Sign foam is a high density foam used on CNC machines for machining 3D signs. Comes in large 4 x 8 foot sheets of various density and thicknesses.

I'd be leary of using a foam - especially if is open cell. Glue could migrate into it. What are your thoughts?

 

[TechTrek]

Perhaps, won’t know until I try.

 

[Tangopapa]

I don't know what sign foam is. You could use a small piece of plywood and wax it with paste wax but it might interfere with some finishes. Another material would be UHMW polyethlyene. (UHMW = ultra high moleculsr weight) you can buy it from many sources.

Most plastic kitchen cutting boards are UHMW. So you can get a slab of it for a dollar or two at your local Dollar Store. Now, Dollar Store goods should be food grade, and therefore non-absorving, but you can test glue adhesion / absorption first before using it.

 

[myavid76]

If you are concerned with this type of jig getting glued to the ribs you could just drill a large hole through the jig where the groves intersect. That way the jig would not come in contact with the glued area.

 

[TechTrek]

If you are concerned with this type of jig getting glued to the ribs you could just drill a large hole through the jig where the groves intersect. That way the jig would not come in contact with the glued area.

Or just run your glue to near the top and add glue after the majority of the bulkhead has set. No chance of contact with the jig.

 

[Seamus107]

To keep my bulkheads square to the false keel while gluing, I use Lego blocks. They are perfectly square, repel most glues, and are hollow, allowing them to be easily clamped in place. We have plenty lying around for the grandchildren to play with, and I have appropriated a few of them for modeling purposes.

 

[zoly99sask]

Look up here how I used Mega Blocks

HMS Ontario 1780 scale 1:32 POB full version

Will you make the deck planking „Insitu“ (after the falsedeck is finals installed inside the hull) or on top of the false deck outside the hull? BTW: great progress my friend....

shipsofscale.com