Ubjs
There are probably a number of starting points used by modelers, and whatever works best for you is the way to go.
Keep in mind that there is no relationship between the location of the gun ports and the planking of the outside of the hull. The ports follow the sheer of the decks which is different than the sheer line of the outboard planking. For the planking, some folks start with the wales, others start with the garboard strake as its ending point at the forward end of the keel is critical. You get to choose in the end, but maybe consider looking for additional and better information on how to plank a hull. Once the hull is planked you can use the drawings to mark out the ports and cut them. How to do this has been discussed here at SOS a number of times recently and should be helpful.
Allan
There are probably a number of starting points used by modelers, and whatever works best for you is the way to go.
Keep in mind that there is no relationship between the location of the gun ports and the planking of the outside of the hull. The ports follow the sheer of the decks which is different than the sheer line of the outboard planking. For the planking, some folks start with the wales, others start with the garboard strake as its ending point at the forward end of the keel is critical. You get to choose in the end, but maybe consider looking for additional and better information on how to plank a hull. Once the hull is planked you can use the drawings to mark out the ports and cut them. How to do this has been discussed here at SOS a number of times recently and should be helpful.
Allan
This is sound advice and I would add one other consideration. There are often additions to the hull after the planking is on that require measurements off the plans to place correctly. So starting planking with the wales or a plank under the sheer of the gun ports give you a reference point for later measurements.
Very true. As well, if the model is fully framed, it is nice to just leave off some of the planking to show off the framing and avoid having to close in the hull with perfect planking which can be difficult.
Allan
Getting the second, final planking later to look correct as far as the planking pattern, and not having any defects is a challenge for newer builders, but it does get easier after your first model. If you try to bypass all the tough aspects of model building like planking, carving, or rigging, you won't learn these aspects, and that limits the level of detail and complexity of your models in the long run. On my current project, there are literally hundreds of carvings which are required, and I suck at carving. So, my answer is to make 3-D printed computer models for those parts as an alternative. That will not make my carving skills improve, however, but it will allow the level of detail to be surpassed as far as the decorations go.
Correct--this is what happens when you don't do that--the white spots are putty covering patched gun ports which were incorrectly placed.
That happens occasionally. Luckily any modifications or corrected to the hull's first layer don't count, because you can correct them and cover over the seams with the second planking layer! The double planked hull has this advantage over the single layer hull.