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The Black Swan by OcCre 1:75: Build Log

Rob444 said:
With my so - so planking ability, more frequently than I want there are gaps in areas between planks.
Click to expand...
Edge ending causes the lift and gaps. If they are pre-shaped off the model (or spiled from sheets rather than using strips) this is eliminated. If you look at some planking expansion drawings found on the RMG Collections website you will see how each strake has a different shape. It is easy to do, just takes time. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/search/planking expansion plans
The four part video by Chuck Passaro has been mentioned numerous times here at SoS, and that is because it works so well in getting the planking right. Hopefully you will find it to be worth a look if you want to get rid of the lift and gaps.
Allan
 
I notices that a few of the planks were not laying flat across the bulkheads (which I failed to take a picture of). Using a bit of alcohol and water I was able to soak the areas affected softening the glue. I gently used a blade to separate the wrongly glued areas.

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By the way the wood looks rough here because it was sanded with 100 grit sandpaper.

After allowing the area to dry it was easy to reset the planks to their proper place.

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I have put the 18th plank onto each side of the hull. You can note there is a definite asymmetry to the space left for planking between the 2 sides.

This is the starboard side.

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This is the port side

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On the port side I ran the plank to the stern just letting it follow its natural curve. You can see it left a space towards the keel. I decided to set it in place with that space and use a stealer to fit the area.

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The only reasonable explanation for the asymmetry is that I made cumulative errors in tapering the planks. I believe this is still better than the way OcCre would have you plank the hull. It looks like I need about 1 and a half more planks on each side to finish it. I am glad I started on both top and bottom to finish in the middle. I believe it will make placing the last plank easier.

I found the planking here more difficult and not as "beautiful" as on the Bluenose, which I came to enjoy. I am sure it is because the bow of the hull is more complex and has the curve and the lack of a rabbet to fit the planks into.
 
The last planks were finally placed. This left a small open area on each side.

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This space was filled from one of the excess pieces from the ends of the planks that were cut off. The piece was split into 2 and trimmed to fit. Once I was happy with the fit I glued them into place.

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Once the glue sets the piece will be sanded to conform to the rest of the hull. I also took small scraps from when I tapered the planks and used them to fill in any larger gaps (about 0.5mm or greater).

All in all I am pleased with the planking. I believe the method shown by the four part you tube video by Chuck Passaro is really the way to go. It worked here and with my Bluenose.

As I said the stakes provided by Occre were well made. I used a total of 19 on each side and must have at least 15 remaining. While the way Occre would have you plank remains questionable in my mind, they did not skimp on the quality of the planks or the number. It may be that Occre's planking method would cause you to use more planks. But whatever, the planking is done.

Now onto shaping and smoothing the planking.
 
After using the plane on raised areas of planks, it substantially leveled things out. I then used 100 grit sandpaper, rubber cemented onto some foam board, to sand things a bit smoother. In addition to that I used some wood filler (Elmers) to fill in any small gaps and hollows. The hull is much smoother.




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On the port side you can see an area that needs some more work with the plane.

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I used wood filler and sanded the hull 3 times, each time the hull is getting smoother and smoother. It is definitely a better job than they show in the building pictures of Occre. There is a 5mm "Slot" where elements of the keel are glued on to. Some of this slot was covered by bits of planking especially in the bow. I used a file to make sure the keel pieces would fit. This is the first model I have done where the keel is fitted after planking.I think the more traditional way is better, but maybe they did this to simplify the build for people whey want to introduce boat building to.

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After the 3 sessions of the filling and sanding I used a finer grit (Maybe 320) foam sanding block actually sold for doing nails. This worked great for a smooth finish. I brushed off as much loose sawdust as I could and then used a tack cloth over the model to remove anything that remained.

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Could this be made smoother? Of course, but I believe it is good enough to support the 2nd layer of planking.

I then started the second layer of planking using the mahogany veneer provided. This is very thin and flexible, easily cut with a pair of snippers. I attached it using PVA glue.

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