Thoughts on rigging blocks with an eye on each end

Jeff T

Jeff T

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I am working on AL's San Francisco II cross section. For the guns and a few places in the mast rigging they directions show using 0.25mm steel wire to from eyes on the each end of a block. I made an example of what was suggested and it looks like this picture.
IMG_6075.jpg

I don't care for the metal twists, especially the the part left over at the end of the assembly. In the next picture I tried adding a seizing over the first twist in the wire. It looks oversized but better than the plain wire to my eye.

IMG_6076.jpg

I might be able to hide the last bit with a seizing to the attached line as well.

Options:
1. Turn the first eye into a hook and attach to the bulkhead eye bolt directly. It still leaves the wire twists exposed.
2. Go completely to thread. I am not certain how one keeps a thread eye on a block round when rigged however. When I have done this in the past the eye becomes an ellipse instead of a circle when rigged and tightened in place.

I am looking for thoughts from others on how to approach this.

Thanks, Jeff
 
So, this is what I would do. Form your .25mm wire into a (full loop) and then off of thatloop, leave enough wire to come off of that LOOP, and leave about 2mm or so straight terminated end (do not wrap around the block). Then you should be able to find a micro drill and drill a hole in the end of the block and then push (insert) the straight end of the hook (with glue) and set for a while. Depending on the size of the block it depends on how 'realistic' you can get. If it is so tiny of a block, this might be the only way. In real life scale, the metal strap would go all the way around. However, since this has to be done on each end as you say, I am wondering if a hole could not be drilled all the way through the block, then run your wired all the way through and then make your loops after the fact.
One other point. You might want to opt for a slightly thinner wire as it is easier to work with - seems to me that the .25 is a little too thick.
In actuality, I have seen blocks rigged like this on many a ship, and I do not prefer it myself. It all depends on how far you want to go with it. A lot thinner wire will allow you go wrap like you have it but will not look as BULKY.
 
On my first build, I got frustrated by trying to twist the wire around the block to get the loops. I broke more wire due to tight twisting and couldn't figure out how to terminate the loose ends. My solution was to drill through the blocks, cut off the ends of the eye bolts and use CA to fasten bolts to the block. The top of the picture is my "novice builder solution" the bottom is a days worth of frustration.



3E9389E4-8BB7-41F2-AD47-A166824028ED.JPG

Jan
 
here is another way, excuse the rings as the wire is out of scale but this was just for demonstration purposes. Glue the rings to the block then wrap the wire through them.
IMG_3437[1].JPGIMG_3438[1].JPG
It needs cleaning up but as I said this was a rush job for demonstration. As Donnie said your wire is far too thick. I find using thread is easier but in this case it is all wire.IMG_3439[1].JPG
 
Thanks for the advise so far. I worked up an example. using the steel wire provided. I need to see about a smaller loop, but definirely an improvement. I'll look into the wire wrapping idea, but I need to think about that for a while. This is a 1:50 model and the example block is from a 1:00 kit (size was likely too large for that kit) so it might be better at 1:50. IMG_6078.jpg
 
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Just out of curiosity, has anyone ever tried putting wood on the jaws of a hemostat to prevent the marks I have on the block in the previous post? I could probably sand out the marks and make the block thinner at the same time.
 
Very nice solutions, I have to keep all these in mind.
 
I don't know the English name but the instrument similar to the hemostat but made to hold suturing needles has crossed ridges far more shallow, the hemostat have horizontal deeper ridges and will leave deeper marks
 
I wrap some painter's tape around a set of small needle nose pliers that have a rubber band wrapped around the handle to hold them shut. Making do with what I have at hand right now.
 
Jeff T said:
Thanks for the advise so far. I worked up an example. using the steel wire provided. I need to see about a smaller loop, but definirely an improvement. I'll look into the wire wrapping idea, but I need to think about that for a while. This is a 1:50 model and the example block is from a 1:00 kit (size was likely too large for that kit) so it might be better at 1:50. View attachment 184774
Click to expand...
I use Toolmakers clamps to hold small parts when drilling, and for holding bloks when assembling wit eyes or thread.
I also use the same clamps for holding a loop in a thread(rope) when I an whipping the thread with thinner thread to form the loop.
I make the loop larger than the block that will fit inot the loop and then pull one leg of the loop tight through the whipping to hold the block or deadeye in place.
Then I apply either CA or PVA(diluted) to the whipping to keep the look tight around the block.

Derek Payne, England UK
 
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