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To the Beginners of the Art of Ship Modeling

For glue I use LePage wood glue Expres quick glue,dries in ten minutes
which seems to be just fine and bonds well.
As for bending planks I soak my planks in Ammonia all purpose
cleaner for a few minutes , much easier and faster than steaming.
As for mistakes in building I must be a slow learner, at the age of
92 I still make them as I am sure we all do .
Shipmodeling has been a most rewarding hobby, for me at least
and I am thankful that I am still able to enjoy it.
Cheers Winova
 
Peter Gutterman said:
Isopropyl alcohol is also very good for easily undoing PVA glue. Personally, I find the yellow carpenter's version difficult work with. being thick, aggressively fast setting and hard to reverse, almost too durable for me. Something I learned from Antique restoration. Having said, my opinion does in no way negate Polydoc's advice and experience. His is no doubt the result of personal practice and experience developed over time. I am sure he can expand and elaborate on the use of this glue in its' application for ship model building. I will be happy to be so advised. Something we all need to develop and experiment with for ourselves.
Click to expand...
Peter is right on target with his comments. One glue will not suit all purposes, and personal experience will dictate which glue to use in which application. I use CN when the contact area between parts is small and for gluing in areas where it is difficult to apply clamps or fingers. I've found the setting time for carpenters works best for me when gluing on the second layer of planking since I don't have to hold on for more than a few minutes before it sets enough to hold the plank in place. I often make small parts from card stock and use white glue to attach them to wood. For metal to wood joints, epoxy is my go-to choice. I'm sure other modelers will have more to add to this subject.
 
aussie43 said:
I have been there a few times - under the desk looking for small parts. I am more careful now and don't use tweezers that make the tiny parts jump into space.

People recommend yellow glue - better for sanding. But "my" hobby shop only sells the Evergreen white. I must ask them why not yellow as well.

I think I will invest in a small table saw from China. They come with an additional motor that drives a chuck that can be used for sanding. I think it could pay for itself if I can use it to build jigs and the display stand. Haven't decided yet.
Click to expand...
“tiny parts jump into space”. Greatest line I’ve heard regarding this hobby. It’s funny and very true. I have yet to find one piece ever that was launched by tweezers. Where could they be?
 
aussie43 said:
Hi,
to the OP - fully agree, but when you are 82, you have to start on a higher gear. I have some experience from N scale trains and 1/72, 1/48 and 1/35 plastic planes and tanks, and now excited starting with wood and ships.

Who knows - maybe my grandsons will have to do the rigging one day - my hands have a bit of shake when they have to do some fine work (it is called Essential Tremor, but I don't need it right now).
I have a largish desk in my study (spare bedroom) with a large PC monitor, clean and carpeted, so for the heavy sanding stuff it will be the bench in the garage.
I have the Amati Santa Maria on the way.

After spending hours searching for ideas, I think I solved how I will do plank bending - for A$35 I will get a hair curler with 40mm drum, 10 temperature steps between 135-180°C. Will have to make a sturdy holder for it. The Amati electric bender is A$90, and the cheaper Artesania bender not available.

My next problem - how will I cut blocks of balsa to fill the spaces between bulkheads - precisely and squarely? I am thinking of taking up the advice for beginners to fill all spaces - to give a good base for the first layer of planks - not just the front and back areas (bow and stern).
Maybe just a mitre box (not cheap), maybe a cheap mini electric table saw from AliExpress?

Regarding glue - how about the Titebond II Premium? It is available in Australia. It is supposed to have fast grab. Is it too fast? And can it be undone with vinegar or alcohol (I have plenty of Jelinek Slivovitz)?

Any ideas will be appreciated.
Click to expand...
AI Says...
  • Titebond Original:
    .
    A classic PVA (polyvinyl acetate) wood glue, ideal for interior woodworking and repairs where moisture isn't a factor. It's known for its strong initial tack and quick setting time, which helps reduce clamp time, according to ROK Hardware.

  • Titebond II Premium:
    .
    This glue is water-resistant, making it suitable for projects that might encounter some moisture, like outdoor furniture or cutting boards. It also has a shorter open time than Titebond Original.

    Titebond III Ultimate:
    .
    The most versatile of the three, Titebond III is waterproof and offers a longer open time (10 minutes) and lower application temperature (47 degrees Fahrenheit) compared to the other two, according to Titebond. It's suitable for both interior and exterior projects, including those where significant moisture exposure is a concern.
 
Awesome words of truth from many.
Hints, tips, ideas, ingenuity, guidance, coaxing etc etc…
This is what makes this site perfection !
Giving the beginner the drive to start….. and the elderly with the wisdom.

RC model, thank you for your words of motivation
 
Winova said:
For glue I use LePage wood glue Expres quick glue,dries in ten minutes
which seems to be just fine and bonds well.
As for bending planks I soak my planks in Ammonia all purpose
cleaner for a few minutes , much easier and faster than steaming.
As for mistakes in building I must be a slow learner, at the age of
92 I still make them as I am sure we all do .
Shipmodeling has been a most rewarding hobby, for me at least
and I am thankful that I am still able to enjoy it.
Cheers Winova
Click to expand...

Here in OZ we don't have the same brands as you guys in North America. The fast acting PVA we have here is Titebond II Premium - Blue bottles. It acts quick - they don't say how quick - and is water resistant.
I rather stay away from ammonia. My wife would chase me out of the house if I did that in my study/spare bedroom.
I am sold on bending them over a hair curler. Adjustable temperature, A$35.
I wish I could stay here for another 10 years like you - I wish you all the best to another decade of modelling!!
I have a 93 yo widower friend who had to go to a nursing home - he is fit, but almost blind. Can't do anything.
 
I can only agree with everything that’d been said, but as regarding glue, and PVA (polyvinyl acetate ) in particular,
Do some research.
There are cheap glues that fail, there are glues that set quickly, there are glues with long open times (set slowly) and there are PVA glues certified for marine use. I now always use Titebond 3 - it’s a marine quality (appropriate eh?) and it is my workshop general use glue for pretty much everything wooden. I have some cheap stuff that gets diluted and splashed around on old plasterwork and stone surfaces to provide a keying coat if one is needed, but I wouldn’t trust it for anything of value. A 2 part epoxy is useful for small items.

For authenticity though, and as an all rounder for dry work, I like hide glue. Yes, the old fashioned, apply hot, rich smelling, fast setting, lasts a couple of hundred years, reversible, used by Stradivarius, glue. But maybe not if you’re a newcomer.

Alcohol slathered on will crack the joint, and enables even things like a Stradivarius to be disassembled without damage. Steaming a joint will work too, but risks damage to the substrate finish.


Equally, rather than X-acto, I would go for a scalpel. Swan Morten make a variety of handles, and the blades are surgically sharp, so can cut even small parts with ease and accuracy.
If you roll the edge using a screwdriver shaft, you have the finest miniature scraper known to mankind.

J
 
Jim Fortnam said:
I can only agree with everything that’d been said, but as regarding glue, and PVA (polyvinyl acetate ) in particular,
Do some research.
There are cheap glues that fail, there are glues that set quickly, there are glues with long open times (set slowly) and there are PVA glues certified for marine use. I now always use Titebond 3 - it’s a marine quality (appropriate eh?) and it is my workshop general use glue for pretty much everything wooden. I have some cheap stuff that gets diluted and splashed around on old plasterwork and stone surfaces to provide a keying coat if one is needed, but I wouldn’t trust it for anything of value. A 2 part epoxy is useful for small items.

For authenticity though, and as an all rounder for dry work, I like hide glue. Yes, the old fashioned, apply hot, rich smelling, fast setting, lasts a couple of hundred years, reversible, used by Stradivarius, glue. But maybe not if you’re a newcomer.

Alcohol slathered on will crack the joint, and enables even things like a Stradivarius to be disassembled without damage. Steaming a joint will work too, but risks damage to the substrate finish.


Equally, rather than X-acto, I would go for a scalpel. Swan Morten make a variety of handles, and the blades are surgically sharp, so can cut even small parts with ease and accuracy.
If you roll the edge using a screwdriver shaft, you have the finest miniature scraper known to mankind.

J
Click to expand...
Thanks, Jim
For this model that I will not take anywhere near water, I will start with the Titebond II Premium. The only difference - their website says - is the #3 is waterproof - and double the price. I don't need that.
I have scalpels and I will have the Aliexpress Exacto equivalent knife for PE blade saws.
 
aussie43 said:
Thanks, Jim
For this model that I will not take anywhere near water, I will start with the Titebond II Premium. The only difference - their website says - is the #3 is waterproof - and double the price. I don't need that.
I have scalpels and I will have the Aliexpress Exacto equivalent knife for PE blade saws.
Click to expand...
I used Titebond ll for years, it’s water resistant if I recall correctly, then lll came along, pricier, as you say, and I decided to stick with one type (pun intended). Last job I did that really really needed it was a set of hollow sweeps (oars). Other than convenience, I prefer hide glued, available in different strengths, and just so pleasant to use, and quick, and doesn’t mark the job with squeeze out….
J
 
Jim Fortnam said:
Equally, rather than X-acto, I would go for a scalpel. Swan Morten make a variety of handles, and the blades are surgically sharp, so can cut even small parts with ease and accuracy.
Click to expand...
Totally agree they are superior to Xacto blades as well as the sometimes inferior knock-off Xacto blades, but for hole saws and such, Xacto are really great. A huge plus to Swann-Morton is the handle design. No blade and handle rolling off the bench and sticking in a foot or thigh. :( If they are good enough for a surgeon, they are great for me.
Allan
 
Actually for model making saws, aka Razor Saws, I prefer the Zona brand saws over the Xacto ones. the blades on Zona saws are fastened to the handle with machine screws instead of the Xacto collet chuck design. They also seem to last forever, even when cutting hard brass tubing. They are not particularly expensive.

Roger
 
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