tools for scratch building

has anyone used this site , it seems too good to be true , and you know what they say about that!
 
thank you all , great information and now i have another shopping list , like you said most tools aren't too expensive but they do add up , i looked at the model expo table saw that i have and i'm not sure its up to the job for cutting planks ,it does have a use for cutting small angles etc but i think i need to get a decent one if i want to move on.
first the i think i will look into getting a scroll saw .
The ModelExpo will cut planks OK but! You need a fine tooth low to no curf blade (there is one listed in the catalog) AND you need a cutting fence that is adjusted very very carefully for an even, no binding cut. If the fence is off even a fraction over the length of the blade it will bind.
 
Hi jim , i'm not too familiar with small power tools , do i have to make a fence for the table saw or is there on available , and also where can i buy the blade from
 
Hi jim , i'm not too familiar with small power tools , do i have to make a fence for the table saw or is there on available , and also where can i buy the blade from
Not knowing exactly what you have let me point you in the direction of some examples. First, ModelExpo pushes a Proxxon table saw. That saw should come with a fence. ModelExpo does not have a good selection of blades but they do have one that is a fine cut 100 teeth blade that might do. I prefer MicroMark. MicroMark has a MicroMake mini table saw #88155 that is excellent and it comes with a cutting fence. Less expensive but also acceptable is the MicroLux Mini table saw # 87775 which also comes with a rip fence. Listed with the MicroLux are several blade options. For ripping planking strips you want to select fine tooth blade at 100 teeth and a thin .02 kerf. The description suggests this blade is best for cross cutting and not for ripping. My experience is this fine tooth thin kerf blade works best for ripping planking strips from basswood or boxwood billets. You can also buy blades from Amazon...just make sure you search the right size, arpeture size, tooth count and kerf. You can get a good selection of blades direct from the Proxxon web site. Dremel also is a source for blades as well as model machines.

Now for the frustrating part. Rip fences normally come packaged with the table saw...meaning it is made to fit the saw. I managed to get a fence by emailing MicroMark directly but that was a few years ago. So the next step is to query the maker of the saw. Go directly to MicroMark, ModelExpo, or the website of the saw manufacturer and inquire through customer service. It is also possible rip fences from other sources might fit your saw table. Last but not least you can make a rip fence that would work. There are several YouTube videos on how to do this. A simple option is a metal bar that you simply clamp in place...make the bar tall enough so your plank clears the clamps.

Byrnes tools (byrnesmodelmachines.com) has first rate model machines and lists accessories for all. I have no idea if his saw fence would work for you. But it is an example of a source of accessories.

Last, do a general web search for "mini table saw accessories" and "mini table saw rip fences." You will find some interesting and workable options for rip fences. I hope this helps a bit...model machine manufacturers do not make it easy...
 
Last edited:
the saw i have is the model expo branded one , the table is small approx 7-1/2 x 5 -1/2 x 6-1/2 inches , i could probably rig up a fence but in the long run i will need to replace it , i know that the byrnes one is the holy grail , but it is a little spendy , what about the micromark one ? it seems to have all the features i would need
 
So I have another question . I was looking through the micro mark catalogue and saw a band saw with a fence . Could this be used to make planks and cut formers?
 
For a quick and dirty fence I shortened a cutting guide. It works just fine at full length, but I didn't like the overhang. Pop out the plastic end, remove the spring and retaining pin, cut it to length, drill a new hole in the steel rod for a new pin and reassemble. It holds pretty well, but as with any saw, set-up is the key.
 
is anyone using the micro-make tilt arbor table saw and if so is it any good, its on sale atm
 
i went to lowes over the weekend , they had a band saw , porter cole i think , the blade looks like it would destroy wood , is there an alterative blade , and if so which one ? is this not the machine i should be looking for?
 
i went to lowes over the weekend , they had a band saw , porter cole i think , the blade looks like it would destroy wood , is there an alterative blade , and if so which one ? is this not the machine i should be looking for?

Anthony...
Porter Cable is a good historical name in the tool industry. Years back, they were known as a tough, reliable tool if not necessarily the most "fancy". I think they still follow along those lines.

There are a lot of power tools on the market with fancy names and splashy looks and lots of hype. Some of them are VERY good tools....and some of them are all "show" and no "go". You could select a higher end tool, maybe like Bosch or Delta, but even with those you have to be alert because they have lower end "consumer" style tools as well. "Consumer" grade generally means ..."buy them, use them up, throw them away..". Even that can be okay though if you don't use that tool much. A good example is Craftsman. Have you noticed how Craftsman has slowly divorced itself from Sears.?? That's because Sears is going under..they're hemorrhaging money. Craftsman is trying to stay afloat by spinning off from Sears. Can't tell yet if they'll be successful ..... BUT I can tell you this... Craftsman is NOT the same tool that it used to be.!!!

So, back to Porter Cable..... Originally, Tough, Well built, Heavy, Utility (not fancy) tools. Today, I would call them a middle of the road tool line generally. There are certainly better tools available, but for light work cycles (time running vs. time off..) and considering price as a discriminator in the "value" discussion---- I would say they are generally fine. And Lowes has a very generous return policy if you don't like it or if it should fail to perform. Blades: This is the easy part. Just look up the blade description in the manual. It will be a fairly standard length. Just pick a blade of the correct length with the TPI that you want. Also choose a corresponding blade width. The width of the blade will be limited by the saw, just like the length is. The manual will tell you something like "...Uses 59-1/2-in length saw blades from 1/8-in to 3/8-in width..." -- or something like that.

Just one caution here: Remember, you get what you pay for. Don't buy an inexpensive tool with a 3 amp motor designed to sit on top of a workbench and then expect it to cut slabs out of 4-6 inch thick timbers.!! Small, lower priced, lower powered saws are for small, light cutting jobs.!! Buy a decent brand and use it for what it was designed. You'll be happy.!!
 
Back
Top