Transfer drawings from paper to wood

Morghy

Morghy

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Feb 1, 2024
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Santimbù (Bergamo - Italia)
Ho letto, da qualche parte, che si può trasferire i disegni da un foglio stampato con stampante laser , direttamente sul compensato.
Pare che si possa fare sia appoggiando il foglio sul compensato e passando un ferro da stiro, sia passando sul foglio del solvente .
Avete notizie su questo sistema?

I read somewhere that you can transfer drawings from a sheet printed with a laser printer directly onto plywood.
It seems that it can be done either by placing the sheet on the plywood and passing it with an iron, or by passing solvent on the sheet.
Do you have any news on this system?
 
Morghy said:
Ho letto, da qualche parte, che si può trasferire i disegni da un foglio stampato con stampante laser , direttamente sul compensato.
Pare che si possa fare sia appoggiando il foglio sul compensato e passando un ferro da stiro, sia passando sul foglio del solvente .
Avete notizie su questo sistema?

I read somewhere that you can transfer drawings from a sheet printed with a laser printer directly onto plywood.
It seems that it can be done either by placing the sheet on the plywood and passing it with an iron, or by passing solvent on the sheet.
Do you have any news on this system?
Click to expand...
Many times that is true. Most laser printers use a material called "toner" (its a fine black powder) for their printing medium and this is affixed to the paper using a combination of heat and pressure. The heat from the iron will transfer some of the toner from the paper to the wood. Of course, to do this, you need to put the paper to the wood with the printed side down. One drawback is that this process creates pieces that are mirror image of the original. If it is a symmetrical piece, that is not a problem. Another issue with this process is that the lines are somewhat blurry after the transfer. Another issue you need to be aware of is that many copiers and printers to not print at exactly 1 to 1 size and are a little off. Verify that your print is the same as the original.

I hope that helps!

Jeff
 
Corsair said:
Many times that is true. Most laser printers use a material called "toner" (its a fine black powder) for their printing medium and this is affixed to the paper using a combination of heat and pressure. The heat from the iron will transfer some of the toner from the paper to the wood. Of course, to do this, you need to put the paper to the wood with the printed side down. One drawback is that this process creates pieces that are mirror image of the original. If it is a symmetrical piece, that is not a problem. Another issue with this process is that the lines are somewhat blurry after the transfer. Another issue you need to be aware of is that many copiers and printers to not print at exactly 1 to 1 size and are a little off. Verify that your print is the same as the original.

I hope that helps!

Jeff
Click to expand...
I do it without an iron. I soak it with water. (Quick example)

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If you have access to an old-school Xerox photocopier you can make accurate 1:1 photocopies of your drawing and then use those to transfer images nto wood using the same method - warm iron and plenty of pressure.
 
 
Last edited:
Morghy said:
Ho letto, da qualche parte, che si può trasferire i disegni da un foglio stampato con stampante laser , direttamente sul compensato.
Pare che si possa fare sia appoggiando il foglio sul compensato e passando un ferro da stiro, sia passando sul foglio del solvente .
Avete notizie su questo sistema?

I read somewhere that you can transfer drawings from a sheet printed with a laser printer directly onto plywood.
It seems that it can be done either by placing the sheet on the plywood and passing it with an iron, or by passing solvent on the sheet.
Do you have any news on this system?
Click to expand...
What I do is to use a pencil and completely cover the back side of the drawing with lead. Then I turn over drawing and trace each line. This will transfer the lead to the wood. After lead is on drawing , blow air to remove " lead dust " this will help when transferring to wood. Just an idea , it works...... gk
 
I make a mirror image and then transfer the laser print using acetone.
 
I use rubber cement to fasten paper drawings to the wood. You only need to coat the wood with the rubber cement. I find small bottles at Staples, but you don’t use very much. After you have cut out the pattern, remove the paper from the wood with a single edge razor blade and a few drops of acetone.
Phil
 
Jonathan Talbot, an artist, sells books about and materials for transferring from paper to paper, and the same technique can be used to transfer to wood, with the limitation that the wood will be coated with an impenetrable layer of gloss o0r matte plastic film. The process calls for coating the laser photocopied image (and it must be mirrored if you want it to appear the same way as the original) with either gloss or matte fluid acrylic medium and coating the wood with the same medium. A heat iron is then applie4d to the back of the photocopied image with a sheet of material that does not accept any images on it as a protective layer (Talbot sells both the iron and the protective sheets). Once the image is transferred, which only takes a few seconds at this point, the two top sheets are removed, and water is used with finger pressure to remove the paper material from the wood. The image will remain once the paper is rubbed off. because the wooed has a layer of acrylic medium on it, it cannot be stained, as first noted.
 
What a complex procedure for something that’s so simple. Here’s exactly how to do it. I put 1 coat of rubber cement on the wood, lay the pattern on the wood while the cement is still wet. Wait 30 seconds or so until it’s dry. Complete your cutting of the pattern, then peel the pattern off the wood. You may have to sacrifice the pattern as it might come off in pieces. So now there’s likely dried rubber cement on the work you want to save. Buy an old fashioned “gummy” eraser, rub it back and forth on your work and the rubber cement will rub off. For stubborn spots, a little acetone on a piece of paper towel will remove any residue. I’ve been doing this for decades. My last ship, the San Juan of Red Bay, Labrador fame is on display at a local museum. They have taken everything I have built over the last 20 years. I’m now 83 and busy building the Occre kit of Endurance. Only the grim reaper will stop me from continuing in this wonderful hobby. Wood can be stained or painted. I use several coats of Tung Oil frequently.
Phil
 
ModelShipWrite said:
What a complex procedure for something that’s so simple. Here’s exactly how to do it. I put 1 coat of rubber cement on the wood, lay the pattern on the wood while the cement is still wet. Wait 30 seconds or so until it’s dry. Complete your cutting of the pattern, then peel the pattern off the wood. You may have to sacrifice the pattern as it might come off in pieces. So now there’s likely dried rubber cement on the work you want to save. Buy an old fashioned “gummy” eraser, rub it back and forth on your work and the rubber cement will rub off. For stubborn spots, a little acetone on a piece of paper towel will remove any residue. I’ve been doing this for decades. My last ship, the San Juan of Red Bay, Labrador fame is on display at a local museum. They have taken everything I have built over the last 20 years. I’m now 83 and busy building the Occre kit of Endurance. Only the grim reaper will stop me from continuing in this wonderful hobby. Wood can be stained or painted. I use several coats of Tung Oil frequently.
Phil
Click to expand...
Hi ModelShipWrite, For most of my models I use French Polish and find using a brush is adequate also. I have found that restricting or coating more gives a better result closer to what I want. Also very easy to apply and just gives that lovely finish to it
I am trying to do a model of the Bounty from scratch and this is my first build of the 1700, 1800 style Ships which all have a lovely charm about them that sucks you in. I see there have been some models made of her but-um- are they accurate to the name the "Bounty"
 
I am lucky to have what is called Drafting paper and all I need to do is copy a shape onto the drafting paper and pin it to a piece of wood to cut the shape out or draw on the lines transferred onto the wood you are going to make the shape, then hilite the transferred indentation line on the wood, with a soft lead pencil.
 
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