Treenailing

Rebus

Rebus

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Mar 13, 2025
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Is there a book or thread here that would explain treenailing for an absolute beginner? Would like to do some on my next model Santisima Trinidad Cross-section, mainly the frames that are exposed.
 
The keys to treenails is to make the correct sizes. Oversized treenails give an appearance of the ship having the measles. The hull planking treenails were typically no more than 2" in diameter. Decks were not treenailed. They had metal spikes that were covered with flat pieces of wood. For appearance sake, treenails look like the covers and would be easier than making the tiny inserts so make a perfect substitute. They were about 1 inch in diameter.

Making these is tedious but not difficult. There are several methods that work, but the most consistent and cheapest method some have found is to use a HIGH QUALITY draw plate. Bamboo skewers can be split numerous times then drawn and when finished leaves a subtle appearance. It can be drawn down to about 0.016" diameter without too much problem.

A fully framed model with a completely planked hull needs upwards of 10.000 treenails just for the hull, so be aware of the task ahead of you.

I am not sure if Byrnes Model Machines is fully up and running since Jim passed away, but you can give them a try. Again, a high quality plate with good cutting edges is needed. Like most things, for draw plates you get what you pay for. https://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/drawplate5.html
Allan

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AllanKP69 said:
The keys to treenails is to make the correct sizes. Oversized treenails give an appearance of the ship having the measles. The hull planking treenails were typically no more than 2" in diameter. Decks were not treenailed. They had metal spikes that were covered with flat pieces of wood. For appearance sake, treenails look like the covers and would be easier than making the tiny inserts so make a perfect substitute. They were about 1 inch in diameter.

Making these is tedious but not difficult. There are several methods that work, but the most consistent and cheapest method some have found is to use a HIGH QUALITY draw plate. Bamboo skewers can be split numerous times then drawn and when finished leaves a subtle appearance. It can be drawn down to about 0.016" diameter without too much problem.

A fully framed model with a completely planked hull needs upwards of 10.000 treenails just for the hull, so be aware of the task ahead of you.

I am not sure if Byrnes Model Machines is fully up and running since Jim passed away, but you can give them a try. Again, a high quality plate with good cutting edges is needed. Like most things, for draw plates you get what you pay for. https://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/drawplate5.html
Allan

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Alan thanks for the info about treenails. I checked on the Byrnes Draw plate. They are not accepting orders at this time. For the cross-section model I plan on doing, it will just be for two frame faces. I am covering the frames with veneer pieces and would like to treenail them versus nails as I have seen on some examples. Want to make the frames appear as though they are assembled versus being just two pieces. So a much smaller project. But I will place an order later for a draw plate I'm sure.
 
Corsair said:
@Rebus if you go past the message that they are "not taking orders now" and go to products and then click on the drawplate, you can order one. If you are hesitant to do that, call them and order it that way. They are taking some orders. :)
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Thanks for letting me know they do take some orders. For what I'm going to do I can roughly figure about 200. So I may need to buy a new tool. Just doing research right now and also learning/planning ahead. Must finish the Buccaneer I'm working on first. Ratlines, rigging, and sails left oh my!
 
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