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Twisted and Warped Decking


This is very common, and the solution was already provided on previous postings: Glue it in place with some heavy on it so stay firm. Use PVA and at the point of more force also ad Super Glue. Let it overnight. You will find it is all flat and ready for you to add the planks over it. Do not worry about excess of glue that looks horrible. All that floor will be planked. All will be masked.
Also, if you still does not fell comfortable with using just glue, then, if you can, add a little nail to which you will cut the head to keep it flat to the floor.

I don't see any difference on that wrap as when you have to bend and glue a hull planking. And it is a pretty common issue on many kits, it is just the nature of the material.

If you still don't feel comfortable, then add drops of super glue first on the section that touch the model (the flat section). Keep it in place, "no move your hands" for 3 minutes. SG will dry. Let it more time, came and hour later. Then you add SG to the points that "do not touch your model because of the issue" and by hand you push them and keep it firm for another 3-5 minutes (or add a weight ). When glued, add super glue at all the touching points, it will penetrate by capilarity, use here the SG type that is like water, not the gel type. Go for a coffee or tea. Done.... start planking the floor.

Cheers.
 
If the thickness of the deck can be doubled, maybe you could glue BOTH deck pieces together and flatten them with weights while the glue sets. Essentially you would be making your own plywood which should hold the flattened shape. But then again, the extra thickness may not be desirable.
I have done this in the past where I needed 1/4" thickness (flat) and just made two pieces of 1/8" and glued them flat together.
i have been thinking about an upgrade to my anycubic Kobra 3D printer with a Laser this may be the deciding factor
 
Steam does NOT work well with plywood. The very nature of its construction that gives it strength prevents steam from working well or at all. Each wood layer in plywood is glued to the next layer with glue. If you think about it when you start to steam with an iron on one surface, the glue prevents the steam getting to all of the other layers. So if you have 3 ply only the first layer(33%) of the piece is being affected by the steam.

I do think Corsair and Uwek may be right. Glue may hold it fast, looking at the warping in the photo. I would use the strongest PVA you can find. The most important thing about this approach, in my opinion is the ability to hold it firmly and flat to the ship while it dries. If this does not work, you may become more frustrated once you see the clean up you need to do.

As crazy as it sounds, I would go to a hobby store and find a piece of Basswood or Pine the thickness you need. Then take your warped part, hold down flat with some clamps on the new wood and use it as a template to trace a new part, cut and sand and your set. It may seem like a lot of work, but peace of mind is a comfort.
 
IF these pieces will not show a manmade material like Masonite might work. These materials tend to lay flat. Or if you have a friend with a jointer and planer he should be able to make you a flat from a dried hardwood board. Constructing tables, chests, etc all rely on flat boards to start.
 
If the deck templates you have get glued uniformly and securely to a flat hull surface that extends to nearly the full dimensions of the warped deck template,it shouldn't be a problem once glued in place. Since you have two, you can make a test by cutting out a subsurface the shape of the hull it is going to be glued to that is thick and flat enough to stay stable once the thin deck template is glued to it.
I guess my question here is. is the surface to which the deck template is glued to substantial and sufficient enough to resist the warp once the warped template is glued to it? making the warpage moot.
 
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