Well said on all points Paul however, the way this thing is built I can't imagine how one could break this. If such a thing happened to me I may give up donuts for a while and purchased another.Hello Toolman,
"Worth the price" is a pretty subjective standard, but I'll try to give some insight...
First of all, I consider a disc sander my most valuable tool, as well as my most often used tool. I actually have several. Variable speed and reversing disc rotation are both features that earn high marks from me.
But the disc sander I use the most is the one you are asking about. Why? First of all, my other disc sanders are relegated to my garage and the Ultimation sander can be used indoors as it does not spin sawdust over everything. Next, the adjustable fence is super handy (though I rarely change it from 90 degrees) because it is fixed in place. Finally, it really does provide the ultimate speed control which allows me to fine-tune parts without concern.
With all that said, it is lousy for high production work or for bulk material removal...(I go to the garage for that).
I cannot defend the crazy price ($225 for a sander without a motor????) - but it is VERY well built.
If I broke mine, I can honestly say I would buy another one. Would I skip groceries in order to acquire this 'unnecessary' sander? Probably not. But I do find it has enhanced my hobby experience and that makes me happy.
Hope this helps a bit.
I just cut 2mm x 6mm boxwood and it didn't blink. I also tried 4mm x 4mm box and the piece slid to the left creating an angled cut. But I then went back and was able to square off that cut end rather easily. There is a stop that you can put on the horizontal arm and that should prevent the slide to the left...How well does the slicer work on hard wood species such as boxwood, pear, ebony, etc?
Thanks
Allan
BTW - using this thing as a repeater is where I use it most often,
No crushing, the single sided blade is quite sharp. The 'left' side of the cut is always perfect - there can be some chip-out on the right side which is not a problem once you know to keep the part you want to use to the left (which means you do need to square up the chipped side). The larger the stock the more the chip-out (at least with boxwood - it can be pretty brittle).Thanks Paul, that was what I thought might be the case. Like cutting 100 front and 100 rear cannon carriage axles for a first rate or maybe multiple carlings and ledges for the deck structure.I just worried that this kind of device crushes the wood, but based on all the positive comments that does not appear to be the case.
Thanks again
Allan