Vasa 1628, Billing boats, 1:75

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The kit was bought in 2016 but if I remember correctly I started building it in 2020. Had trouble getting the frames straight. Unfortunately, some parts were crooked, today I had returned the kit as the wood material was not good. For example, there were twigs in some parts and some were severely warped. The planks for the planking were rough and crack easily even if soaked.
But this is now history and it remains to try to get something meaningful out of the kit. A few years after I bought it, Vasa came out in 1:65 scale and I also have that kit on the shelf. Think I can practice this one.
Today I tried to correct the worst warp in the hull and think I can get it together although it is far from perfect. Thinking of filling in more with balsa in the bow.
Thinking of starting with the planking of the hull and don't really know how to place the long upper plywood parts. Could it be correct that they should sit level with the lower edge of the deck?
If anyone here has built the kit, it's parts 54 and 55.
These two parts are also severely warped and I came across an old similar kit for cheap. Part 54/55 is there perfectly fine, but unfortunately not laser cut. I cut out one of them with a carpet knife, but what is the best way to remove all the small notches, there are about 140 pieces about 4x5 mm and the plywood about 2 mm thick?
If someone will look at the instructions:
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Anyone have a suggestion on how best to saw/file or use some kind of machine to make the recesses in part 54/55, see above?

If I try the carpet knife, I see that the plywood splits.
 
Think I have to take a walk to the Vasa Museum and take some photos of my own.
Vänner, swedish for Friends.
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I have come up with a way to quite easily build part of the deck under the gratings. Not much is visible even if you make them removable. The frame is visible, however, and I think I can make 8 lids and lean them against the frame to hide them.
Need to buy new wood. The obechin is too soft and in the wrong dimension. When I try to grind it, it breaks. Will buy pine or linden at my local hobby shop.
 
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Bonjour à vous,
Compte tenu de l'état d'avancement de votre construction, il serait vraiment souhaitable que vous investissez dans une scie à ruban. Vous n'aurez plus aucun problème pour découper proprement toutes vos pièces. Pour environ 200€, je vous conseille la Proxxon DS 230 E. Elle m'à permis de réaliser toutes les coupes de bois de mon Wasa.
Croyez moi, cette construction terminée est l’une des plus belle réplique du navire Wasa original !

Bon courage à vous.
 
I cannot see from your photos, but suggest you have a building jig with the keel firmly held in position, to stop any twisting of the hull.
 
I have screwed the keel into a straight piece of plywood.
Think it looks straight now.
Carrying on with some deck underneath the gratings.
 
I made some deck pieces for the upper cannon deck as I thought you could lift the gratings.
But now that I see how much you see of the upper deck, I have started thinking about making a larger part of the upper deck. In that case, I should make the hull first and then remove the fake deck and with a Dremel take out the frame completely about 35 mm down so that the upper gun deck can fit.
After all, I can always make the hull first and then decide how to proceed.
 
Have started to fill in with balsa between the frames. Shouldn't need to fill in where it's completely straight, but unfortunately my experience is that I manage to get the planks uneven even there if I don't fill in. I'm just plain clumsy.

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Thinking about this with plywood at the top above the planking. I was at the museum yesterday and from what I can see, the top part also consists of planks in heavy dimensions. Surely it should be possible to build the model in the same way?
Which part I mean can be seen in my post a bit higher, that with part of the drawing.
Maybe it will be easier to get it all looking right. If I use the plywood, it has to be planked, both inside and outside, I think.

I have purchased linden flakes in dimensions 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 mm which I can saw in my small Proxxon saw.

A build log that I think is good is this.

He marked out the cannon ports on plastic and I tried it and it seems to work well. Thinking I can transfer the marking with a pin in each corner of the cannon port.

Very interested in your comments regarding the question at the top of the post.
Could there be problems that I'm not thinking about?
 
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