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Victor H.M.S. Enterprize Build Log

Corsair said:
Ok, I have come to an issue with building frame #3.
I have the pieces for the bottom of the A side and the B side, and then there is a third one that I don't see on the frame plan and I don't see how it goes into the frame. Picture below to see the related size. The one on the bottom is for the bow side frame. The one above that is for the aft side frame. And the one on the top is the one I am questioning. There is also one of these for subsequent frames (I believe I saw one of these for frames 4 through 6). Thank you for your help!
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Seems you have one wrong piece, remember many frames, like this one have one piece like bottom with chocks, and one piece, such at one of top ones where futtocks glue on lower surface leaving angled extension that sits onto keel block.
I suspect bottom one is correct but simply match it on plan to verify.Each double frame has big and small notch.
 
AIT471 said:
Tim you and Jeff have both mentioned your "spindle sanders", anyway you guys can tell me which ones you are using?
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Tim,.
I have a really nice JET oscillating sander. It does not have the option of a belt sander attachment like the Triton and others, and is quite pricy (about $500), but it is a really high quality machine. I've used it for several years and it has always worked well.
Alex R
 
TRS7139 said:
Seems you have one wrong piece, remember many frames, like this one have one piece like bottom with chocks, and one piece, such at one of top ones where futtocks glue on lower surface leaving angled extension that sits onto keel block.
I suspect bottom one is correct but simply match it on plan to verify.Each double frame has big and small notch.
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The bottom one and the middle one are the normally correct ones. However, the top one is in one of the B series sheets and has the number 3 indicating it should be for frame pair #3.
 
Keef said:
This looks great. I've just ordered one on Amazon. Delivery to Spain May 7th
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Tip: stay away from corse belts, even on lowest speed, this thing works fast.

Addition: As I approach final shape, I just ordered sanding belts in 240 grit. After that, everything will be hand finish sanded.
 
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Modelship Dockyard said:
Alex, you shall narrow it from the bottom of the gripe to the top of the lacing, as the instruction noted. In some reserach, there was also indication of narrowing the cutwater only to the junction where you have stopped. I'm more tend to the first way, which is why I put it on the instruction, but it could be arguable that the second method may also be correct.

Also like Allan mentioned, there should also be a slight downward narroing for the stem, sadly this is hard to make on the kit, so we have omitted that. The overall result won't have big differences.
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Alex,
Kind of missed this first time through. I ended up fairly close to what Victor did but something I found helpful, I pulled out the figurehead and after sanding down the inside notch to even it up I sanded down bobstay, etc. until the piece seated nicely in position and evened everything up.
In place temporarily starts to look like a ship.

Tim
 
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TRS7139 said:
Alex,
Kind of missed this first time through. I ended up fairly close to what Victor did but something I found helpful, I pulled out the figurehead and after sanding down the inside notch to even it up I sanded down bobstay, etc. until the piece seated nicely in position and evened everything up.
In place temporarily starts to look like a ship.

Tim
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did the same but was told to slow down by admin - i still think we will need to take lld of to get the figurehead right
 
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