Please contact me if you are selling.
Thanks,
-Rich
Thanks,
-Rich
-
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Rich,
If you are very handy. JohnV made a thickness sander. You can read about it partway down on his wonderful blog. I am sure he would answer any questions.
I believe there is also another thickness sander discussed in the NRG shop notes.
Rob
If you are very handy. JohnV made a thickness sander. You can read about it partway down on his wonderful blog. I am sure he would answer any questions.
I believe there is also another thickness sander discussed in the NRG shop notes.
Rob
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2025
- Messages
- 379
- Points
- 128
There is a long discussion in the School under Shop Notes.
The concept is simple enough for DIY -
Precision and accuracy are a necessity. Everything must square up and stay that way. This means serious scantlings.
I do 1:60 POF. This requires processing hundreds of feet of framing stock. A serious motor is required.
I up graded my Gene Larson design model from 1/3HP to 1/2HP both 1700 RPM. The additional power is worth the additional expense.
I had to replace the motor anyway. I did not respect the need for serious ventilation for the motor. A closed box under the table makes for a smaller foot print. If the effort is not made to look at the motor from time to time the box can fill with wood flour. The result is the opposite of proper ventilation.
The motor - if it is of a quality worth having - 3/4" ply - a bed that is dead flat and does not twist or flex - plus the time gets expensive. If the Byrnes Model Machines was still available it would be less expensive.
If the job that it must do is a serious one - DIY - may be it. We are back to old times.
The folks at Granger convinced me that the upgrade to 1/2HP was in my best interest. Considering that making high volumes of fine dust is the whole purpose of the machine - I prefer TEFC motors.
I have a wide array of tools that fit to a 1/2" motor shaft and perform properly at 1700 RPM. Every 1/2HP motor that I would consider has a 5/8" motor shaft. I have not found a small adapter that is precision and has an affordable price to reduce a 5/8" rod down to a 1/2" rod. So I do not have any additional mitigating justification for the expense for the motor. It is not the backup motor for the drum sanding, buffing, drum rasp cutter, Guinevere Flexible Drill Shaft with burrs -- tools. If a reasonable way to have a 1/2" shaft is to hand buying a motor that is CW/CCW is worth considering, But a drum switch adds more to the cost.
The concept is simple enough for DIY -
Precision and accuracy are a necessity. Everything must square up and stay that way. This means serious scantlings.
I do 1:60 POF. This requires processing hundreds of feet of framing stock. A serious motor is required.
I up graded my Gene Larson design model from 1/3HP to 1/2HP both 1700 RPM. The additional power is worth the additional expense.
I had to replace the motor anyway. I did not respect the need for serious ventilation for the motor. A closed box under the table makes for a smaller foot print. If the effort is not made to look at the motor from time to time the box can fill with wood flour. The result is the opposite of proper ventilation.
The motor - if it is of a quality worth having - 3/4" ply - a bed that is dead flat and does not twist or flex - plus the time gets expensive. If the Byrnes Model Machines was still available it would be less expensive.
If the job that it must do is a serious one - DIY - may be it. We are back to old times.
The folks at Granger convinced me that the upgrade to 1/2HP was in my best interest. Considering that making high volumes of fine dust is the whole purpose of the machine - I prefer TEFC motors.
I have a wide array of tools that fit to a 1/2" motor shaft and perform properly at 1700 RPM. Every 1/2HP motor that I would consider has a 5/8" motor shaft. I have not found a small adapter that is precision and has an affordable price to reduce a 5/8" rod down to a 1/2" rod. So I do not have any additional mitigating justification for the expense for the motor. It is not the backup motor for the drum sanding, buffing, drum rasp cutter, Guinevere Flexible Drill Shaft with burrs -- tools. If a reasonable way to have a 1/2" shaft is to hand buying a motor that is CW/CCW is worth considering, But a drum switch adds more to the cost.
Thanks guys….