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What is "impact" Glue?

darnold

darnold

Joined
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Greetings. I've run across the term "impact" glue in the Artesania Latina instructions for the ships that I am currently working on.
My question is this:

What is meant by "impact" glue?

Is this the same thing at CA glue?

Thank you for your input.

signed,

the new guy
 
Wow. I am using all kind of glues for decades. I never heard of impact glue. May be this is difficulties of translation from Spanish?
 
Graham said:
It probably means contact adhesive.
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Thank you to all for your response. I believe that you'all are correct.

This begs the question: have you used contact cement before to apply thin veneer planks to a base surface?

From what I read, it can be done, but there's no room for error. Contact cement makes an instantaneous bond, so you're in trouble if you need to adjust the piece.

Thoughts?
 
darnold said:
Thank you to all for your response. I believe that you'all are correct.

This begs the question: have you used contact cement before to apply thin veneer planks to a base surface?

From what I read, it can be done, but there's no room for error. Contact cement makes an instantaneous bond, so you're in trouble if you need to adjust the piece.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...
you are exactly right, which is why many avoid contact cement. Some people put wax paper between so they can adjust it and then take out the was paper. But you still have the same problem if it moves as you are taking out the wax paper. Sometimes I use PVA glue and sometimes I use CA (medium thickness)
 
Why they would recommend contact cement is a mystery to many model ship builders. Wood glue such as PVA provides a stronger bond, that penetrates the wood fibers better than contact cement and allows some adjustment before it dries.
Allan
 
Corsair said:
you are exactly right, which is why many avoid contact cement. Some people put wax paper between so they can adjust it and then take out the was paper. But you still have the same problem if it moves as you are taking out the wax paper. Sometimes I use PVA glue and sometimes I use CA (medium thickness)
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I work in a high-scale cabinet fabrication shop. When the carpenters lay up the laminate onto the wooden substrate, they apply the contact glue to both surfaces (back of the laminate; top of wood base), lay down 1/2"H x 1"W strips of wood on the wood base, and then put the laminate on top of the wood strips - keeping it off the surface of the wood base. Then starting at one end they remove the strips - one at a time - allowing the laminate to come into contact incrementally.

I think I'll experiment with the contact cement and some scrap pieces of wood.

Thank you, mates.
 
darnold said:
I work in a high-scale cabinet fabrication shop. When the carpenters lay up the laminate onto the wooden substrate, they apply the contact glue to both surfaces (back of the laminate; top of wood base), lay down 1/2"H x 1"W strips of wood on the wood base, and then put the laminate on top of the wood strips - keeping it off the surface of the wood base. Then starting at one end they remove the strips - one at a time - allowing the laminate to come into contact incrementally.

I think I'll experiment with the contact cement and some scrap pieces of wood.

Thank you, mates.
Click to expand...
Please let us know your results.
 
I wouldn't waste my time fussing with contact cement if I were you. Its solvent is acetone, which has its uses, but produces noxious fumes and is highly flammable. More importantly, from a modeling perspective, its archival rating is quite low. It doesn't last well, especially in high temperature environments. It's basically a rubber dissolved in acetone. This yields a sticky fluid rubber that becomes progressively stickier and thicker as the alcohol solvent evaporates. When the alcohol has completely evaporated, a solid and somewhat flexible rubber adhesive bond remains. The problem is that that rubber has a short lifespan. This rubber bond will likely not last any longer than a rubber band and as anybody with any experience with rubber bands knows, they don't last forever.

A properly shaped and bent plank should lay effortlessly against the frames to which it is to be fitted and PVA adhesive is more that adequate to secure it in place. Properly shaped planks should not require forceable clamping to make them conform to the shape defined by the frames. Not only is accomplishing this a difficulty that is easily avoided by doing it right, but such construction practices "lock in" stresses in the model's structure which can promote premature adhesive failures. I suppose some kit manufacturers recommend contact cement or cyanoacrylate adhesives because they will "grab" tenaciously when planking is bent to shape on the frames. I admit it's probably easier to tell people to do it this way than to provide instructions on how to form a plank correctly, but while there is a learning curve to doing it correctly, doing it any other way almost always yields a lot of headaches and frustration.

See: https://cdn.wildapricot.com/278718/...mhSf7LxGmFUAtT~g__&Key-Pair-Id=K27MGQSHTHAGGF

and https://modelshipworld.com/forum/98-planking-downloads-and-tutorials-and-videos/
 
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Contact cement or Neoprene as used to apply high Pressure laminares (Formica) in cabinet shops is not suitable for model work and without proper ventilation it is harmful. In general terms you can use Titebond in a similar manner, as impact glues by applying it to both surfaces to create the bond. There are small tubes in the market of impact glue with a finer chemical composition to use on small parts but I have never found it necessary to use anything beyond the Aliphatic Resin glues (Titebond), CA or PSA glues.
 
I'll put in a word for old-fashioned hide glue. It needs a glue pot with heat - apparently a baby bottle warmer (double skinned with hot water jacket to the inner) will work, but I have a couple of old glue pots and an electric plate, or a purpose made electric glue pot.
The beauty of it is several fold
-available in different 'strengths' - the strongest will pull the face off glass - for a crinkle effect. the weakest will provide a soft caress to glue two sheets of paper together.
- has a quick initial 'grab' as it cools. Applied hot, it is liquid, water based, penetrates just enough in wood, and will hold an applied plank and give a reasonable amount of jiggle time before it grabs.
- reversible. If your jiggle turns out to be a joggle, you apply a hot iron, or old fashioned hot lump of copper, and the joint releases so you can 'get it right'
- cleans up with a warm damp cloth
- finishes like shellac are happy to go over the top, with no 'footprint' left
- squeeze out is easy to remove - see above - warm/hot cloth does the job.
- the glue pot is nice and warm in winter, and you have an excuse to keep the air temperature up too!

Not too difficult to find, if you look in cabinetmakers supply places. Liberon is always there of course, and they work internationally.

Jim
 
I have defaulted to a PVA quick dry tacky glue such as Aileen’s Tacky hobby glue, and various viscosity CA glues exclusively. I do use CA gel a lot. I have no problem with any of my gluing requirements.
 
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